Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

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nobbie48 said:
A Wheatstone bridge is handy for locating ground faults. Invented by a guy named Christie and improved by Wheatstone in the mid 1800's, they still work today. In a pinch, a voltmeter and battery can do the same thing if you know math.
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Megger helped me find a fault at my parents. Gas line installers nailed a wire in the wall. They pulled the nail so it was no longer a dead short. Megger let me know which wire had taken the hit so rewire was faster and easier.

I've used wheatstone bridges long ago for strain gauges. I've never tried using one for fault finding. I used to have one but I think I got rid of it.
 
nobbie48 said:
A Wheatstone bridge is handy for locating ground faults. Invented by a guy named Christie and improved by Wheatstone in the mid 1800's, they still work today. In a pinch, a voltmeter and battery can do the same thing if you know math.
Click to expand...
I have never used a wheatstone bridge in that context. For this fault it came down to regular troubleshooting, just time consuming and basic EE troubleshooting.

Volt meter to check voltages.
Swap to another breaker to see if the fault follows the line/circuit or breaker.
Temporarily floating ground stopped the tripping.
Determine if it is neutral or hot to ground with the meter.
Disconnect and reconnect the circuit (at boxes) half way and then at branches to narrow down the location.
Once got it down to between two boxes (getting to this is the time consuming PITA), no issues in the boxes, replace the cable, miller time.

I used leftover lengths from another job to do short runs. Turns out it was one of these... :mad:
 
daboys_19 said:
What I didn't tell you was that we recycled another old lathe that had been in pieces for 25 years in the garage. 3000 lbs. Got $200 from the recycler. I figure my father has another couple thousand pounds of steel lying around the house.
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How did the tool disposition work out? I'm trying to help my old boss sell off his remaining equipment. He has decent size lathe and mill left (roughly 16x40 each). They are in great shape and include everything someone needs to start work and make money (or parts for personal use) but he's trying to get thousands for them. That's a huge discount for better equipment than you can buy new but it limits his buyer pool. Any guidance you have on finding buyers would be helpful.
 
Sadly there are about a bazillion pounds of machine shop equipment around . Lots of it very good , but again, bazillions of tons of it .


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crankcall said:
Sadly there are about a bazillion pounds of machine shop equipment around . Lots of it very good , but again, bazillions of tons of it .


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If it came down to it, I might be able to get them for very cheap but that would mean kicking my car out of the garage permanently. While they would be fun to have, I quite like getting into a car that isn't encased in ice. These are a decent size and power to be able to do useful work but can fit in most people garages.
 
GreyGhost said:
If it came down to it, I might be able to get them for very cheap but that would mean kicking my car out of the garage permanently. While they would be fun to have, I quite like getting into a car that isn't encased in ice. These are a decent size and power to be able to do useful work but can fit in most people garages.
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What about power? A lot of that stuff needs three phase.

I know a guy looking for a mill but he is so lacking in knowledge that he will drive you crazy.
 
crankcall said:
Voltage is the biggest handicap, dozens of machines have no home because you can’t fire it up in the home garage .


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Something doesn't sound right about this but it says 5 HP, 5/8" shaft"

5 HP Open Drip-Proof Electric Motor
5 HP Open Drip-Proof Electric Motor
5 HP Open Drip-Proof Electric Motor

POWERFIST 5 HP Open Drip-Proof Electric Motor​

SKU: 8513533

4.7 out of 5 stars, average rating value. Read 24 Reviews. Same page link.

4.7

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$379.99
 
nobbie48 said:
Something doesn't sound right about this but it says 5 HP, 5/8" shaft"

5 HP Open Drip-Proof Electric Motor
5 HP Open Drip-Proof Electric Motor
5 HP Open Drip-Proof Electric Motor

POWERFIST 5 HP Open Drip-Proof Electric Motor​

SKU: 8513533

4.7 out of 5 stars, average rating value. Read 24 Reviews. Same page link.

4.7

(24)
Write a review
Ask a question
Powerfist



Select Quantity:
1

In Stock Online
Out of Stock at Store
6608 Dixie Rd Change Store

$379.99
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High speed, low torque. 8 ft-lbs. 3500 rpm. 1800 rpm 5hp shafts are over 1".
 
GreyGhost said:
High speed, low torque. 8 ft-lbs. 3500 rpm. 1800 rpm 5hp shafts are over 1".
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I was just recalling a job I worked on where a guy wanted his own waterfall, and the recirculating pump motor was the size of a garbage can. It was 240 volts single phase, and the cable run from the "Cottage" was hundreds of feet. The feed alone was stupid expensive.
 
We bought a three conductor direct burial cable and needed just shy or two hundred feet for our YC crane , just under three grand in wire . Then a three ft trench , smart guy to connect it . Eleven Gs all in . Glad the breaker switch was ok …..


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Just replaced the kitchen tap ( it was leaking ), and removed and reinstalled the sink, since it had come loose from the countertop again. Trying no more nails wet grab this time. I really don’t want to do this again in fifteen years. I’m going to put some better supports and shims under the sink this time.
 
Domino effect. The hand basin needs to be replaced and I don't want to replace the laminate countertop.

If that happens the wallpaper gets messed up and replaced which means painting the trim. Add the undercounter plumbing, new taps meaning new cabinet hardware (Must match). I'm starting to think my wife is a Liberal.

All the easy options either don't look right or are obsolete.
 
Baggsy said:
Just replaced the kitchen tap ( it was leaking ), and removed and reinstalled the sink, since it had come loose from the countertop again. Trying no more nails wet grab this time. I really don’t want to do this again in fifteen years. I’m going to put some better supports and shims under the sink this time.
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Surprising. My cousins use some epoxy or whatnot to secure a sink underneath to the granite and never an issue.

What they do is apply epoxy, pull up the sink toward the granite from underneath and then just wait a few hours for it to set.

I have heard of only 1 failure in many years...and it's because the installer forgot the epoxy.
 
Baggsy said:
Just replaced the kitchen tap ( it was leaking ), and removed and reinstalled the sink, since it had come loose from the countertop again. Trying no more nails wet grab this time. I really don’t want to do this again in fifteen years. I’m going to put some better supports and shims under the sink this time.
Click to expand...
I always glue sinks down with Wedi adhesive.

They will NEVER come loose.
 
If I’m doing a top mount sink I set it in simple silicone , it will come off if you want , or sit there for twenty yrs .
I watched a granite guy do an undermount and he used some two tube mixer gun and said it would set in thirty mins but he said leave it clamped for twenty four


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mimico_polak said:
Surprising. My cousins use some epoxy or whatnot to secure a sink underneath to the granite and never an issue.

What they do is apply epoxy, pull up the sink toward the granite from underneath and then just wait a few hours for it to set.

I have heard of only 1 failure in many years...and it's because the installer forgot the epoxy.
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I've never liked the idea of an undermount sink. Never seen one that didn't have a very hard to clean crevice between the granite and the sink.
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