Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 447 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

GreyGhost said:
Cheap can be ok. Thermal cameras are not magic though. The cheaper cameras have lower resolution (and cheaper still only have accurate temp at center spot). Both of those are ok for this application. You don't care about calibrated temperatures, just differences and lower resolution means you need to be closer to the wall when scanning to get the detail you want. Not a big deal for a home-gamer. If you are shooting far by necessity (eg tall ceiling or industrial plant) or if you are selling time (scanning a whole wall in a second instead of a minute), better cameras can make sense.
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I'm toying with the idea of picking up a middle of the road Flir camera from Amazon ~$400 and using it to check for thermal leaks around windows and large garage doors. I wonder if a 256x192 model would be of much use for that purpose? Would a less expensive option still work?

Also thinking of using it to check the effectiveness, or at least uniformity of attic insulation. House I bought has a 35x50 shop with 12' ceilings. Fully insulated, including the attic. I'd like to check it, but it's a PIA to enter the access hatch. Thought if I looked upwards onto the ceiling from the warm shop that any thin or poorly insulated spots should show up quite clearly.

Same goes for the 4x 10x8' doors. I could climb up a ladder and run my hand over the seal to check for leaks, or I could use technology to free up that hand to hold a beer.

I don't have any drafts or obvious issues, just looking to eek out any and all efficiency that I can.

House also has 46 exterior windows, so lots of seals to check there too.
 
Torren said:
I'm toying with the idea of picking up a middle of the road Flir camera from Amazon ~$400 and using it to check for thermal leaks around windows and large garage doors. I wonder if a 256x192 model would be of much use for that purpose? Would a less expensive option still work?

Also thinking of using it to check the effectiveness, or at least uniformity of attic insulation. House I bought has a 35x50 shop with 12' ceilings. Fully insulated, including the attic. I'd like to check it, but it's a PIA to enter the access hatch. Thought if I looked upwards onto the ceiling from the warm shop that any thin or poorly insulated spots should show up quite clearly.

Same goes for the 4x 10x8' doors. I could climb up a ladder and run my hand over the seal to check for leaks, or I could use technology to free up that hand to hold a beer.

I don't have any drafts or obvious issues, just looking to eek out any and all efficiency that I can.

House also has 46 exterior windows, so lots of seals to check there too.
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My IR camera was more and has lower resolution than the one you are looking at (160×120).

Remember ir is not magic. It sees surface temperature differences and there are some traps (cannot see air movement, cannot get temp of shiny metal, different emissivity, can get reflections off glass, cannot directly see moisture, etc). There are solutions to many of these but homegamers (and many home inspectors) may not even realize that the images they saw may not be telling you what you think.

Shop ceiling will be easy to see glaring flaws in insulation. You will have no information on potential air leaking from shop up into attic.

Leaks around doors(especially garage doors) are not easy with a thermal camera. You need the cold air to blow on something and then you can see it. Your hand is far more effective than the fancy toy. Easiest is probably bright lights either inside or outside and look for light on the opposite side.

Seals around windows are another tough one. Again, you need a temp difference to see anything and warm air leaking out will be invisible. On a cold day, turn every exhaust fan in the house on high (except erv/hrv) to depressurize house and then look 10 minutes later. That may show you something.
 
crankcall said:
Anyone know how to wire a three way switch as a timer ? Upstairs guest bath has an exhaust fan , which I just figured out is a three way , linked to a switch on ground floor beside thermostat. It was a thing twenty yrs ago , but I want that fan on a timer . Does a three way timer exist?


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Simply disconnect the traveller and any switch will work.

1) put in in a timer switch, don’t use the traveller.
2) put in a wifi smart switch, don’t use traveller. You will need the common (usually white).
3) put in a humidity sensing switch, don use traveller.
 
GreyGhost said:
The easy answer to that is a humistat switch. About $30. Runs fan for set time when you turn it on as well as turning on fan automatically when humidity is really high (showering with no fan).
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Thanks. I wasn’t aware they existed. I’ll take a look. Unfortunately it means busting a hole and adding a box. However it’ll be a smaller hole than my cobbled up version
 
nobbie48 said:
Thanks. I wasn’t aware they existed. I’ll take a look. Unfortunately it means busting a hole and adding a box. However it’ll be a smaller hole than my cobbled up version
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There is no switch for the existing fan? Or is the switch outside the bathroom? I am pretty sure you can get fans now with humidity control built in. That will cost more in parts but would be easier than adding electrical in finished walls.
 
nobbie48 said:
Thanks. I wasn’t aware they existed. I’ll take a look. Unfortunately it means busting a hole and adding a box. However it’ll be a smaller hole than my cobbled up version
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I’ve got one lying around here somewhere. It’s not much larger than a normal box so in theory shouldn’t be too disruptive, unless you need to do more wiring.

Our fan is connected to the light in the bathroom, so unless I plan on separating the two….i don’t need new wiring.
 
mimico_polak said:
I’ve got one lying around here somewhere. It’s not much larger than a normal box so in theory shouldn’t be too disruptive, unless you need to do more wiring.

Our fan is connected to the light in the bathroom, so unless I plan on separating the two….i don’t need new wiring.
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The existing box is a two gang with a GFCI receptacle and a triple switch for light / fan / nightlight. I have to do the head scratching bit.
 
nobbie48 said:
Thanks. I wasn’t aware they existed. I’ll take a look. Unfortunately it means busting a hole and adding a box. However it’ll be a smaller hole than my cobbled up version
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This is a combo, just replace existing single switch. Make sure both power feeds go to switch
 
Those things can be a pain to stuff into the box. The backs are so large.
 
GreyGhost said:
Two gang box with gfci and a humidity switch will probably be a bear to install.

I'd probably just get one of these. Nice and quiet, built-in humidity and occupancy sensing, multiple speed selection (probably want 110 cfm for a shower).

WhisperSense DC Fan, 50-80-110 CFM

na.panasonic.com na.panasonic.com
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Installing these into an existing bathroom can also be a challenge. Depending if there is access from above.
Other than that, they are a great option.

You might need an adapter from 4 inch to 3 inch pipe.
Newer construction seems to be using 3 inch piping for bathroom fans.

I have done several of these in new construction and existing.
Each time in existing there is something new that throws a curve ball at you.
 
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Anyone got some experience with gutters and downspouts?
Looking to move mine for better drainage, currently going into weeping tile.
Would appreciate a 2nd of eyes and any advice. This will be a temporary thing as I plan to have them all changed. Willing to pay for time or a nice lunch or dinner.

Maybe I'm just tired of doing things alone and second guessing myself...lol
 
Chances are the tile is plugged if they are running rain water in. Do you know where the tile drains to? Mine goes to a outside sump pit with a pump sending it to the pond. The first year or 2 of a country house is frustrating and annoying after 6 months my wife and I were both ready to pack in in and go back to the city. After a few years I wouldn't go back unless I had to.

Sent from the future
 
Jampy00 said:
Anyone got some experience with gutters and downspouts?
Looking to move mine for better drainage, currently going into weeping tile.
Would appreciate a 2nd of eyes and any advice. This will be a temporary thing as I plan to have them all changed. Willing to pay for time or a nice lunch or dinner.

Maybe I'm just tired of doing things alone and second guessing myself...lol
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Assuming the tile can't absorb everything in a heavy storm (common issue), an interim step of elbows and 10' leaders gets all the water well away from your house. Punching in additional downspouts is easy if you think that is important. If you want to reverse flow direction, you really should rehang troughs to reslope them.
 
Jampy00 said:
Anyone got some experience with gutters and downspouts?
Looking to move mine for better drainage, currently going into weeping tile.
Would appreciate a 2nd of eyes and any advice. This will be a temporary thing as I plan to have them all changed. Willing to pay for time or a nice lunch or dinner.

Maybe I'm just tired of doing things alone and second guessing myself...lol
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Maybe post up some pictures and I'm sure enough expert advice will be thrown your way.
 
Jampy00 said:
Anyone got some experience with gutters and downspouts?
Looking to move mine for better drainage, currently going into weeping tile.
Would appreciate a 2nd of eyes and any advice. This will be a temporary thing as I plan to have them all changed. Willing to pay for time or a nice lunch or dinner.

Maybe I'm just tired of doing things alone and second guessing myself...lol
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What’s the issue with the current setup?

It’s fairly simple, so long as you’ve got slope you should be good assuming no clogs.

If they’re going into a weeping tile without issue, all is good. If they’re backing up chances are the weeping tile is crack or clogged (which was what caused water to backup into my basement last year) then it’s something else.

Clogging would require a snake to be run and unclog it (assuming not cracked).

I can pop up some day next week but it would be after work so a little bit dark.

Post photos of the issue and it would help.
 
GreyGhost said:
Assuming the tile can't absorb everything in a heavy storm (common issue), an interim step of elbows and 10' leaders gets all the water well away from your house. Punching in additional downspouts is easy if you think that is important. If you want to reverse flow direction, you really should rehang troughs to reslope them.
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Yeah not sure there is even weeping tile but the current system is poo.
I'll be running it away from the house on many of the downspouts and a rain barrel for the one by our front door.

Not rocket science, I'll sort it out asap.
 
Jampy00 said:
Yeah not sure there is even weeping tile but the current system is poo.
I'll be running it away from the house on many of the downspouts and a rain barrel for the one by our front door.

Not rocket science, I'll sort it out asap.
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If you're getting a rain barrel, make sure it has an overflow system. They will fill up very quickly in heavy rain.
 
matthew said:
If you're getting a rain barrel, make sure it has an overflow system. They will fill up very quickly in heavy rain.
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Yes, that is what I'm looking at. I want that or a spigot so I can hook up a hose to move the excess water, if I use a typical downspout it will sit right over a walk way.
 
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