Cinder block wall, with about 8 cables with no real reason for more. I’ll send you the pic and if you can make it smaller please post here.
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Are they coming down bare on the outside of the wall? or Are they in a conduit of some sort?
Please, whatever you do, do not just drill a hole in the brick pout the cables through. This is what Rogers/Bell do and its horrible.
You want some sort of PVC conduit entering the house through the cinder block. On the outside you want either a PVC box (4 X 4) or a PVC LB.
This will allow you to seal the have a proper sealed entry into the house AND allow for more cables added in the future.
When the cables are routed though the PVC, you should use duct seal to seal up the air gap that is in the conduit. Remaining space between the cables and the PVC Pipe. Plasticine duct seal goes on the outside of the house not the inside.
For about 8 cables, you will need at least a 1 inch conduit. Don't go out buying a 10 foot section. I should have some that I can give you. I normally use 1/2 or 3/4 but I should have a long enough piece of 1 inch left over. Next size up would be 1-1/4.
I'll see if I can find some pics of some of my previous jobs and post them. Plus, you got my number so just call.
EDIT
@mimico_polak
This is what you want to create with a PVC LB or PVC junction box.
Take note of the spray foam insultation that goes on the outside of the PVC pipe between the PVC pipe and the building material.
Also, the PVC box/LB should have 2 drip holes drilled at the bottom to let any water drip out of the box.
If the cables are not in a PVC conduit right now and will be going into the box directly, make an access hole for the cables at the bottom of the box. Feeding them from the bottom, then into the house. This will eliminate the chance of any water entering the box. You do not want a hole from the top, unless there is another PVC pipe coming in with a proper sealed connection.
If you need help with non invasive surgery procedure of your house give this guy a call.
Please, whatever you do, do not just drill a hole in the brick pout the cables through. This is what Rogers/Bell do and its horrible.
You want some sort of PVC conduit entering the house through the cinder block. On the outside you want either a PVC box (4 X 4) or a PVC LB.
This will allow you to seal the have a proper sealed entry into the house AND allow for more cables added in the future.
When the cables are routed though the PVC, you should use duct seal to seal up the air gap that is in the conduit. Remaining space between the cables and the PVC Pipe. Plasticine duct seal goes on the outside of the house not the inside.
For about 8 cables, you will need at least a 1 inch conduit. Don't go out buying a 10 foot section. I should have some that I can give you. I normally use 1/2 or 3/4 but I should have a long enough piece of 1 inch left over. Next size up would be 1-1/4.
I'll see if I can find some pics of some of my previous jobs and post them. Plus, you got my number so just call.
EDIT
@mimico_polak
This is what you want to create with a PVC LB or PVC junction box.
Take note of the spray foam insultation that goes on the outside of the PVC pipe between the PVC pipe and the building material.
Also, the PVC box/LB should have 2 drip holes drilled at the bottom to let any water drip out of the box.
If the cables are not in a PVC conduit right now and will be going into the box directly, make an access hole for the cables at the bottom of the box. Feeding them from the bottom, then into the house. This will eliminate the chance of any water entering the box. You do not want a hole from the top, unless there is another PVC pipe coming in with a proper sealed connection.
If you need help with non invasive surgery procedure of your house give this guy a call.
Last edited:
Mad Mike
Well-known member
2x4 rafters are still common today -- that's pretty much the standard in a truss.
In an old stick frame roof, the collar ties and ceiling joists work like a simple truss. Adding an underpurlin and some struts between the bottom cord and underpurlin basically creates a modern truss. If you have good access, it's easy to take up to 4" of sag in a day.
In many of the old roof I've seen, the collar ties are simply in the wrong spot -- too high.
I need some repair parts for Milwaukee and Ryobi stuff and asked a Ryobi rep when I saw him at Home Depot. I was given a website ereplacements.com. It was an easy to use site but they said the part couldn't be shipped to Canada.
Ryobi and Milwaukee are close cousins so I 'd expect a common local part supplier. A google search drifted sideways into sketchy territory.
The part I need is a plastic rear guard and some sites have it listed for several brands. Does Ryobi do branding, using common parts.
I got milwaukee to ship me parts years ago but don't remember how.
Afaik, although tti owns many brands including Milwaukee and ryobi, I don't know of many shared parts. Maybe some things like guards and fences are shared.
I put an 1 1/4" hole through the wall and connected the six interior outlets to an exterior PBN30 inlet box from Costco. I still need an adapter, as my generator is 20A, but it will eventually allow the generator to run the six outlets during the not so infrequent power failures here, without having to feed extension cords through a door or window. We don't have long enough outages to justify a dedicated unit.
https://www.costco.ca/reliance-cont....-generator-power-cord.product.100531978.html
There's a thread buried somewhere around about the ownership of each brand...
when I contacted Bosch for a few parts on my blown saw, their reply was 'may be time for a new saw'. Which reminds me, I need to finish up that project.
Brother is in the tool and machinery business , I used to work consumer trade shows for him . The number of “offended “ customers that didn’t understand why parts for a 22yr old bandsaw were not available. You can’t get parts for some 22year old cars , a washer may not have parts available, your VHS machine is cooked . What would make a low end bandsaw different?
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Not sure if this is directed at me, but the parts are available for my table saw.
I just asked them whether the gravity table mates with both the 4000 and 4100 table saws (it does). And the guy said to buy a new saw instead.
Double brick house, sound like you doing the inside of an exterior wall?
If so you will have a ~3/4" gap between the plaster board and the interior brick. You can try fishing them down this gap, see if you can run a fish tape up (or down). On a regular wall you should have access to this gap top and bottom.
Better option (what I would do) is to run them down/inside the closest interior wall, very unlikely there is any blocking (age of the house) in there so you need a hole top and bottom large enough for the cable bundle. Measure and measure again to make sure you have the same wall cavity. Least intrusive, drop a string down from the top with a nut tied to the end. Take a magnet on a stick (like mechanics use) and with two people and a little fiddling you will catch the nut and now you have a string to guide/fish the cables. Do them one at a time with a new string on each cable for the next.
Or instead the the string (more intrusive) cut an access hole at the bottom in the plaster board, fish them down and grab them and then feed them through the bottom plate. Patch and paint afterwards.
When I did my rewire (electrical) I used the string. nut, magnet for any walls that were tiled, had textured plaster, I could not match the paint, or that I really needed to feed them from the bottom. Others I cut the hole at the bottom, fed wires from the top, patched the plaster with the piece I cut out.
Last edited:
Thanks @backmarkerducati, the good thing is that the wall on the inside of the house is all open and nothing on it. So drilling through is easy, so long as I don't hit any of the sensitive water lines. Gas line there also, so makes measurements easy from both ends.
@crankcall whew! It is however my Bosch parts guy that told me to buy a new saw. I bought an old saw and cannibalized it. Just need the functioning bits to be installed.
@crankcall whew! It is however my Bosch parts guy that told me to buy a new saw. I bought an old saw and cannibalized it. Just need the functioning bits to be installed.
Here's the pic of his situation.
I am on board with oioioi's solution. Add conduit from the LB to keep the cable protected.
Drilling should be from the basement and from the top (bottom and top plates). So any pipes etc. should be obvious...
Another tip, if it is not obvious where the interior wall is below or above drill a small hole (like 1/8") in the ceiling and floor beside the wall and push a wire or coat hanger through. Find the wire in the attic or basement now you know exactly where everything is. The small hole can easily be filled after wards.
He is lucky in this situation. Window right there is an easy reference from both sides. Inside is unfinished so nothing is hiding.
Here's the pic of his situation.
I am on board with oioioi's solution. Add conduit from the LB to keep the cable protected.
Ok , now I understand. The wires are already outside and they are running under the new exterior finish (if I am reading the picture correctly)?
In this case I would continue as is (tucked up under) and pass them through the brick/cinderblock where you want them to go. SDS drill a 1" hole give or take and then spray foam the hole. If protection just here is an issue cover them with some c-channel. Exterior finish over them.
Unless the desire is to go outside the new exterior (siding) and then back inside I do not see much benefit for conduit here if it was not done for the entire length. Plus you will need to fish them all through the conduit.
I've got three repair projects on the go. For me there's a six year old 40 volt Ryobi mower needing a rear safety guard, blade and the shock mount for the blade. Then I messed up on my Milwaukee "Skil" saw and need a couple of parts for it. The saw is a year old and has cut less than 20 feet.
The third project is a wheelchair for a neighbour. They inherited it from somewhere and it came without the foot rests. I contacted the manufacturer (Future Mobility) who is five miles from me but they don't deal with individuals. I was given two dealers to call. The first one said they didn't deal with the manufacturer. The second is supposed to call me back today with info.
This is not a cheap Walmart wheelchair. It reclines and has a ton of safety devices and adjustments as would be needed by someone with neurological decline. Price list says $2,999 plus options.
I could make the parts for the wheelchair but would prefer factory for safety reasons.
I understand the 20 year old tool needing a no long available part. Happiness is owning a cast iron tool with a bolt on motor, common bearings and a vee belt.
You’re correct. All wires are under the siding, and this area will have stucco atop it.
I’ll add 2 more wires to the left to run around the house before the siding on the final wall so that I have hard wired access for internet points / cameras all around the house.
Laundry room will have the modem / internet switch and camera centra control. But for that I need to buy @oioioi a few pints to know how to set up.
OK, people may think this is crazy time but.... but if your shock mount is actually the blade insulator.... Two faced tape....
Some back ground.... During COVID an electric mower that was given to me needed the blade insulator (one side had failed). The blade would spin but at a slower speed than the motor as it was slipping. It still provided electrical insulation but no longer prevented the blade from free spinning.
The device has two purposes, act as an electrical insulator between the blade and motor, in case you run over the cord it does not charge the body... (one half of the "double" insulated design). The other is to be a sacrificial item if the blade hits something very hard (rock/root) that will not move. It has two plastic edges (flanges), one set goes over the square washer that is keyed to the motor shaft. The other set on the other side go over the blade. If the blade hits something at speed one of the two edges/flanges will break free and the blade is no longer fixed to the shaft (my situation).
The part was unavailable (or people wanted crazy prices) a couple of years ago, still kind of crazy. My "temp" solution was to use strong two faced tape between the insulator and the blade where the one set of edges/flanges had failed. The other set of sacrificial edges are still in place over the square washer so if I hit something they are still there to serve the sacrificial purposes. It still works as an electrical insulator.... As crazy as tape to hold a mower blade sounds the blade cannot come off as it is held in place by the nut etc. If it fails, no different than if you hit something hard, the blade will just spin slower than the motor--it can't come off.
Well it worked, and few years later is still working! YMMV.
