Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 362 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Thanks. Is it darker because it's wet or does it dry that way? The reason we're doing it mostly is to darken the foundation colour as it stands out so much against the darker stone above it so we'd like it closer to the stone colour.
That's the natural colour of the concrete. We're still planning on doing the final coat on it to even it out as it's still rather rough in some sections.
But that will be done at a later stage.

Can you rent a bobcat and split it three ways? You’ll have the gravel moved in no time.
Haven't thought about it. But as @oioioi says it'll remove all incentive of the bulk load delivery.

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Ugh...I'm starting to regret this plan to split with neighbours. But I can't cancel now simply due to everyone on board.

My driveway will be a mess for a bit of time.

I asked the supplier if they can meter it out, and they said 'no, once the hatch is open...it's all coming out'.

I should think things through better before I become a helpful neighbour.
No good deed goes unpunished. Others that have done similar purchases usually came out on the wrong side of the ledger sheet. Fill a level 5 gallon pail and weigh it. Let them use Mad Mike's numbers but remember dry vs wet can make a difference.
 
This is the size you want I can get you one cheap for a weekend if you can get it
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Sent from the future
 
This is the size you want I can get you one cheap for a weekend if you can get it
5e044e19f6e5dee9177391ec47b55c4c.jpg


Sent from the future
Don't have anything that can pull 3000lbs (maybe the Odyssey) and will look into sourcing a trailer for this type of weight.
 
Ugh...I'm starting to regret this plan to split with neighbours. But I can't cancel now simply due to everyone on board.

My driveway will be a mess for a bit of time.

I asked the supplier if they can meter it out, and they said 'no, once the hatch is open...it's all coming out'.

I should think things through better before I become a helpful neighbour.
Ask the driver, flash a $20 and you might get some cooperation.
 
flash a $20 and you might get some cooperation.
Or a good laugh.... All depends on the driver. Stick with your original plan, but tell them they need to take their portion by the end of the day.
 
Don't have anything that can pull 3000lbs (maybe the Odyssey) and will look into sourcing a trailer for this type of weight.
Wheelbarrow work is easy if you do it in manageable size loads. Moving full wheelbarrows of gravel is a killer.

I wouldn't bother with a skidsteer unless you have a very experienced operator. Driving one is simple. Replacing a torn-up lawn and then repairing your gouged-out driveway... not so much.

Tip: make the wheelbarrow loads small, line your path with scrap OSB or plywood for easy rolling and to protect your lawn..
 
Taking apart Kevin’s handiwork. Man knows his concrete and his garden beds.

Got some good wheelbarrel exercise while at it…

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Looking for some guidance here for the shed...

Recommendations for a shed pad and there are SO many options. My dad is recommending a concrete pad...but that may be overkill for a simple shed?

Currently plan is to put 2-3" of gravel, and 2" of concrete above it to make a solid pad....

1. Level the grass/soil
2. Install 2x6 to create the outer edge
3. Lay down gravel
4. Tamp down gravel
5. Pour concrete
6. Remove 2x6s
7. Install shed

Is #5 necessary? Or can I just put in 3/4 or 1" plywood atop the gravel? Biggest concern is animals getting in under the shed. Every person I know that has a shed without full gravel coverage gets skunks / rats / raccoons underneath their sheds.
 
Looking for some guidance here for the shed...

Recommendations for a shed pad and there are SO many options. My dad is recommending a concrete pad...but that may be overkill for a simple shed?

Currently plan is to put 2-3" of gravel, and 2" of concrete above it to make a solid pad....

1. Level the grass/soil
2. Install 2x6 to create the outer edge
3. Lay down gravel
4. Tamp down gravel
5. Pour concrete
6. Remove 2x6s
7. Install shed

Is #5 necessary? Or can I just put in 3/4 or 1" plywood atop the gravel? Biggest concern is animals getting in under the shed. Every person I know that has a shed without full gravel coverage gets skunks / rats / raccoons underneath their sheds.
IMO plywood on gravel is a bad idea.
 
Why? Genuinely curious as I've never heard that. My buddy built his plastic shed atop gravel...and the thing is twisted to hell after 1 winter season.
I may be wrong but I am pretty sure the plywood will not be rated for ground contact and will just rot out, even sitting on the stone. Usually IME people use patio stones in this scenario. My buddy had pros build his base, 6X6 outer frame (stayed in place) filled with compacted gravel and patio stones on top. Plastic shed sat on the patio stones, after about 10 years we had to lift the shed and some of the stones at one end as they sunk about 2 inches and the doors no longer opened.

I am not a fan of concrete slabs for sheds due to cost and permanence but other than that if done correctly it is a legit solution. But both of those (cost and permanence) are my hangups not technically wrong.

My shed is on four screwpiles with a 2X6 PT frame with no ground contact. Still solid many many years later. Chicken wire can always be added to keep animals out. Might require "inspection" every once in a while for holes.

There is no one right way but many wrong ways. Trick is pick a right way that works for you.
 
Thanks @backmarkerducati. My biggest worry is the vermin that can go under the shed. Cousin, friends, and family members all have skunks/raccoons/rats going under their sheds when they're lifted off the ground.

My neighbour did sono tubes and the + blocks with nothing to really protect from vermin (outside of one small patch of gravel, and another 2x6 placed lower to the ground to keep animals away. They'll burrow underneath.
 
@backmarkerducati is correct mostly. Plywood in contact with gravel is not unlike plywood in direct contact with concrete , the lime in the limestone gravel , similar to concrete will eventually eat ply. Pressure treated plywood lasts longer , but still not great .


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Thanks both. I guess that option could see the gravel about 1" under the plywood and that would be ok due to the air gap?

I'm just seeing if I can get away from the concrete pad...as that's the backbreaking labour. And not sure it's worth getting a concrete truck for a small base only.
 
Thanks both. I guess that option could see the gravel about 1" under the plywood and that would be ok due to the air gap?

I'm just seeing if I can get away from the concrete pad...as that's the backbreaking labour. And not sure it's worth getting a concrete truck for a small base only.
Another option could be a footer with your floor inside. Shed is supported by the rim of concrete (very high critter resistance) and plywood over gravel inside doesn't see much water so it should last a very long time.
 
Another option could be a footer with your floor inside. Shed is supported by the rim of concrete (very high critter resistance) and plywood over gravel inside doesn't see much water so it should last a very long time.
Having trouble visualizing this one.... got a schematic / pic?
 
Having trouble visualizing this one.... got a schematic / pic?
Use concrete to form a rim joist/perimeter beam with shed attached to beam. Fill center with gravel/plywood. Uses much much less concrete than a full pad. Still floating but should move as a unit so doors won't get angry.
 
In '18 I bought a "Grand River Sheds" shed. 8'x12'.
The floor is 1"x8" solid pine.
I made a 13x9 border and filled it with 1.5 or 2 yards gravel (I forget), and removed the border.
BIGGEST MISTAKE ever. I should have cemented it.
Now....one corner is sinking, and a skunk has homed up under the good corner.
*One day*, I'll jack it up, move it, pour a concrete pad, and do it properly.
 

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