The pay for half a fence goes back to medieval farming , to insure both farmers have an ok fence to keep the sheep at home . It’s not a bad law , but not everyone can afford half a fence .
100 feet of basic chain link is under $1000 DIY so about $5.00 a foot if everyone works together. I have no idea of an installed price and obviously there are cheap fly by nights, fair prices and opportunists.
I can't recall what the common element was but the neighbour wanted something and it wasn't in our budget. He wasn't a DIY type. We agreed that if he paid for the material I'd put it in. Win win.
Farm fencing can be very complex. In some areas the landowner is responsible for the fences on particular sides even if he doesn't need them. "I'm bringing in a flock of sheep so you have to fix / install the fence on the X side of the pasture."
Not worth $75 IMO.... only 2 for 4 degrees but that may be a big deal on certain days (and those are the days they likely will need to do it). Sure you can opt out of individual changes but still no thanks.
Iberville 1104-L vs 1104-LA. Technically, the Iberville catalog lists the 1104-L as compatible with AC, but 1104-LA works way better. Has anyone encountered any problems with inspectors when using the 1104-L for AC installations?
I saw some staining in the attic when checking stuff out for the new roof and was concerned about mold due to the old standards for vents. I had samples tested by LCS Labs in London and we're OK.
A lot of remediation test companies will test for free but I wonder how many "Find" stuff that isn't there. The LCS tests are $45 each, mail in samples. Easy people to deal with.
Want to use our existing bbq minus the base for a custom outdoor kitchen island but can't find a insulated jacket that fits our bbq. Frame for the island would be constructed of wood so is there an alternative solution to solve this fire hazard? Section under bbq could potentially be made from stacked cinderblock but that's the only idea I've come up with so far.
Want to use our existing bbq minus the base for a custom outdoor kitchen island but can't find a insulated jacket that fits our bbq. Frame for the island would be constructed of wood so is there an alternative solution to solve this fire hazard? Section under bbq could potentially be made from stacked cinderblock but that's the only idea I've come up with so far.
In the old days, an asbestos sheet or mat would get this done quickly and easily. Real cement board may work (not permabase). Alternatively, firebricks are rated to be blasted. I would keep a small airgap between bbq and structure.
Hmm…so the wife saw the pond I was building (inside a current plant border) and said “those stones look really good, we should make the entire border out of them”. So now I have to dismantle it and incorporate it into a new border.
I agree with her, the current border is made of cinderblocks that I found in the garden when we bought the place years ago. Recycling is good but….cinderblocks.
These stones I’m using are the cheapest ones from Home Depot (about $2ish per stone). Pre cast concrete but with a natural finish. I will probably need to do a bit of masonry work with some so I’m guessing an angle grinder with a cut off wheel should be able to neatly cut one or two? The things are only 3” thick (10.5” long and 5.25” wide). I’ll put them two rows high for the border. The pond is 6 rows high.
Hmm…so the wife saw the pond I was building (inside a current plant border) and said “those stones look really good, we should make the entire border out of them”. So now I have to dismantle it and incorporate it into a new border.
I agree with her, the current border is made of cinderblocks that I found in the garden when we bought the place years ago. Recycling is good but….cinderblocks.
These stones I’m using are the cheapest ones from Home Depot (about $2ish per stone). Pre cast concrete but with a natural finish. I will probably need to do a bit of masonry work with some so I’m guessing an angle grinder with a cut off wheel should be able to neatly cut one or two? The things are only 3” thick (10.5” long and 5.25” wide). I’ll put them two rows high for the border. The pond is 6 rows high.
You don't get much of a cut depth with an angle grinder, a little over an inch IIRC. I used to use a circular saw with a diamond blade. They're cheap at PA. The dust isn't the best for the saw and water isn't a good idea so I had a cheapie saw for the purpose.
Hmm…so the wife saw the pond I was building (inside a current plant border) and said “those stones look really good, we should make the entire border out of them”. So now I have to dismantle it and incorporate it into a new border.
I agree with her, the current border is made of cinderblocks that I found in the garden when we bought the place years ago. Recycling is good but….cinderblocks.
These stones I’m using are the cheapest ones from Home Depot (about $2ish per stone). Pre cast concrete but with a natural finish. I will probably need to do a bit of masonry work with some so I’m guessing an angle grinder with a cut off wheel should be able to neatly cut one or two? The things are only 3” thick (10.5” long and 5.25” wide). I’ll put them two rows high for the border. The pond is 6 rows high.
At $2 a stone, it's a good time to practice. I would use a hammer and chisel to split the stones. Gives you an almost straight line that looks slightly more natural than a saw/grinder cut line.
Hmm…so the wife saw the pond I was building (inside a current plant border) and said “those stones look really good, we should make the entire border out of them”. So now I have to dismantle it and incorporate it into a new border.
I agree with her, the current border is made of cinderblocks that I found in the garden when we bought the place years ago. Recycling is good but….cinderblocks.
These stones I’m using are the cheapest ones from Home Depot (about $2ish per stone). Pre cast concrete but with a natural finish. I will probably need to do a bit of masonry work with some so I’m guessing an angle grinder with a cut off wheel should be able to neatly cut one or two? The things are only 3” thick (10.5” long and 5.25” wide). I’ll put them two rows high for the border. The pond is 6 rows high.
Round one of Pool robot repair didn't work out. Too much damage in existing motors and they really didn't want to come apart. Of course, robot manufacturer did everything in their power to screw you into buying a replacement robot. They want $700 for the loaded motor pack (half the price of the robot). With some digging you have find motors and gearboxes for $160 each. Screw that nonsense. With some digging found original motor specs and bought something similar off Amazon for $20 each. Gearboxes needed some modification with a drill to get new motors in. Motors needs shafts cut down (small hacksaw and power the motor and that goes quickly). New motors are a little longer which causes packaging issues.
If someone is deciding on a pool robot brand, I would avoid Polaris. Single seals on many water entry points (including rotating shafts). Huge flexible sealing surface between plastic parts isn't great either. I can't say if other brands are better but its hard to design worse seals for something that lives underwater.
Round one of Pool robot repair didn't work out. Too much damage in existing motors and they really didn't want to come apart. Of course, robot manufacturer did everything in their power to screw you into buying a replacement robot. They want $700 for the loaded motor pack (half the price of the robot). With some digging you have find motors and gearboxes for $160 each. Screw that nonsense. With some digging found original motor specs and bought something similar off Amazon for $20 each. Gearboxes needed some modification with a drill to get new motors in. Motors needs shafts cut down (small hacksaw and power the motor and that goes quickly). New motors are a little longer which causes packaging issues.
If someone is deciding on a pool robot brand, I would avoid Polaris. Single seals on many water entry points (including rotating shafts). Huge flexible sealing surface between plastic parts isn't great either. I can't say if other brands are better but its hard to design worse seals for something that lives underwater.
Hopefully it goes back together and lives. Might try another brand next time but the Polaris one really work well. I just got a free new one in the fall as the replacement for the one you have died with 1 day left on the warranty.
Hopefully it goes back together and lives. Might try another brand next time but the Polaris one really work well. I just got a free new one in the fall as the replacement for the one you have died with 1 day left on the warranty.
Obviously I have no comment on their cleaning ability yet. Mechanical design is weak at best. I like pool cleaning robots but they seem to design them to fail just after warranty ends. For $1500, they shouldn't be disposable.
Obviously I have no comment on their cleaning ability yet. Mechanical design is weak at best. I like pool cleaning robots but they seem to design them to fail just after warranty ends. For $1500, they shouldn't be disposable.
Obviously I have no comment on their cleaning ability yet. Mechanical design is weak at best. I like pool cleaning robots but they seem to design them to fail just after warranty ends. For $1500, they shouldn't be disposable.
I love stuff like coil top stoves. Every five or six years something stops working and fifty dollars later it's as good as new. A friend's high tech one has an eight hundred dollar switch panel, single source.
Yeah look up the fence bylaw in Toronto, you can build it on your side right up against the property line but not on it I believe without the neighbours permission.
I'm going to have to deal with something like this. My neighbour went and planted some trees on the front yard what either looks like on the property line or on my side. There are already a row of fully grown cedars there, and they put them in between. Didn't ask they just show up one day. I feel like just ripping them out and tossing them, hate that guy. But I will check with the city first before doing that.
My cedar hedge was healthy thick, 16' high and 4' thick. Planted in 1970, the trunks at a few inches inside my side of the property line. A few years ago the neighbour shaved off the 2' that had grown into his yard... about 1/2 the trees died.
Kinda passed me off, our yards are 150' wide, the 2' meant nothing. I cut down the trees along the side I can't see. He freaked, as it made his view the dark side of my house where I store my junk.
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