So this is good right? LoL
I'm no civil / structural engineer, but I feel the walls are solid. I feel like wood construction would make this a much easier project.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
I'm no civil / structural engineer, but I feel the walls are solid. I feel like wood construction would make this a much easier project.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I don't believe you harm brick by installing an internal vapor barrier and external or Tyvek or foamboard. Brick does not need to breathe unless it's subject to a lot of water. Bricks hold less moisture than timber framing and sheathing when encapsulated.
There are a lot of places where houses are built with masonry. They install an interior vapor barrier and foam and/or housewrap directly to masonry surfaces.
Housewrap/tyvek allows moisture movement. Well installed closed cell foam is vapour impermeable. The potential issue I see is that all of his brick/block is at equilibrium now with a bunch of moisture in it. Seal that in a plastic bag and expose it to changing temperatures and you may get rain in the bag which is not good. Now, some basement walls have vapour barrier, block/poured and then external waterproofing membrane so they are sealed both sides and I haven't heard of major issues but they are also almost fixed temperature.
If anyone needs something good to read before bed...
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So here we have from pages 94/95 of the Hardie installers manual ( which I need to get to Mimico) installs directly on concrete walls , on walls strapped and on insulated two side concrete .
Installer i talked to today said he would have no issues strapping a wall and using foam board . He did say the inside of walls is where he would put tbe insulation if he has a choice , he hates the look of build outs around hose bibs, meters and back set windows .
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So here we have from pages 94/95 of the Hardie installers manual ( which I need to get to Mimico) installs directly on concrete walls , on walls strapped and on insulated two side concrete .
Installer i talked to today said he would have no issues strapping a wall and using foam board . He did say the inside of walls is where he would put tbe insulation if he has a choice , he hates the look of build outs around hose bibs, meters and back set windows .
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I have a moisture meter for wood but it doesn't come with a chart for brick. Almost everything has moisture in it with the question being what is acceptable if it becomes sealed.
It would be nice to think that MP's place was built with a perfect interior vapour barrier but is that likely? My house had foil backed gypsum boards on strapping and plaster on top. There were lots of seams under the plaster but I never saw any moisture damage to the strapping when I ripped it off.
The theoretical problem is a rigid foam exterior insulation sealing the outside of the wall. Does the outside insulation have to be vapour proof? Is there a problem with siding over house wrap over wood framing with rigid fiberglass keeping the heat in?
Payback is a problem unless you do it yourself. Is it worth doing one bedroom to get an idea of cost and comfort? Bedrooms are easy as they can be closed off. I don't know if a permit is required.
A 12 foot wall needs 15 2X4s, 3 sheets of drywall, a bundle of fiberglass, mud, tape and nails. (And a forgiving wife)
The big adder to that would be a new window if needed. It would be the best time to do it.
Put the $50 K towards your mortgage and the savings will pay for the DIY version.
Personal preference is to install the siding on the outside, with nothing more than a house wrap to block out the wind and the strapping will provide the 1/2-3/4" air gap to let brick breathe.
Then install the interior BATT insulation, vapour barrier, and new drywall. This would allow me to upgrade the new electrical (only replace wires with new, not new lines) and properly insulate.
I'd probably use 2x3s on the inside, but using 2x4s would lose an additional 2" in each room...but higher R value.
And it's cheaper as the insulation alone for my project is close to 5k.
Then install the interior BATT insulation, vapour barrier, and new drywall. This would allow me to upgrade the new electrical (only replace wires with new, not new lines) and properly insulate.
I'd probably use 2x3s on the inside, but using 2x4s would lose an additional 2" in each room...but higher R value.
And it's cheaper as the insulation alone for my project is close to 5k.
The thicker the insulation the better but it's a diminishing return. With 2X4s on a 12 foot wall you only lose about two square feet of floor. The siding becomes mostly cosmetic.
P.S. I forgot to mention vapour barrier and house wrap in my BOM. Hopefully pieces can be found instead of having to buy rolls ten times what you need.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Just be careful with Muriatic, the vapor will flash rust just about anything it wafts over. Wife had some pricy wrought iron chairs made for the kitchen -- a spare was in out laundy where I was cleaning up a scorched stainless soup kettle with muriatic. A few days later her $500 chair was oranger than Donald Trump.
As always...be careful who you hire! It's stories like this that make me want to do more DIY around the house.
globalnews.ca
Found it on Kijiji for $100/roll vs $150+tax at HD. Only holding off because I'm not 100% which way to proceed.
Reno gone wrong: Toronto-based contractor takes $82K, disappears | Globalnews.ca
A Toronto-based renovation contractor who held about $82,000 in deposits without completing work has left a customer convinced he'll never see any of the money again.
globalnews.ca
I need approximately 2300 sqft, and the TYVEK comes in rolls of 900sqft. Which would be enough to cover the shed also when I replace it.
Found it on Kijiji for $100/roll vs $150+tax at HD. Only holding off because I'm not 100% which way to proceed.
I would be using tyvek in every scenario where you cover the outside. Even if you used foam as your barrier, tying flashing to foam in an airtight way is unlikely. Most of your comfort and savings are going to come from air sealing.As always...be careful who you hire! It's stories like this that make me want to do more DIY around the house.
Reno gone wrong: Toronto-based contractor takes $82K, disappears | Globalnews.ca
A Toronto-based renovation contractor who held about $82,000 in deposits without completing work has left a customer convinced he'll never see any of the money again.
I need approximately 2300 sqft, and the TYVEK comes in rolls of 900sqft. Which would be enough to cover the shed also when I replace it.
Found it on Kijiji for $100/roll vs $150+tax at HD. Only holding off because I'm not 100% which way to proceed.
Doesnt it come folded like poly? Attach a 4.5' wide strip at the top and then let it flop down. It's been a while since I worked with tyvek. Have lots of acoustical sealant and flexible flashing tape on hand. Review flashing details before you start so the order of pieces of tape is second nature.
Looks like a roll to me. There also 3ft options which will be easier to use.
3' strips will be harder. Sealing perimeter/joints/penetrations is a pain to do well. Just like drywall, use the biggest pieces possible as the extra time required on step one saves at least double that time on step two.
Edit:
Tyvek also needs overlap between pieces so you would need more sq ft of product with strips.
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I bought a part roll on Kijiji and it was 9 feet. I wasn't wrapping the house so just unrolled what I needed in the back yard and cut it. Sold what was left.
Just save up all those little silica gel bags that come with electronics and optical gear and throw those into the gaps as you build. Voila! No more moisture problems!
On a sort of related (bad idea) note. I remember years ago people using vermiculite saved from various places as insulation material for various uses….until the asbestos contamination thing came along.
On a sort of related (bad idea) note. I remember years ago people using vermiculite saved from various places as insulation material for various uses….until the asbestos contamination thing came along.
For our kitchen remodel we will be getting a new kitchen sink. Current sink is a double sink and 7” deep. Underneath there’s 2 drains and a tie in for the dishwasher drain. It’s pretty tight in there currently in terms of the plumbing.
Looking at replacements I’ve found some good ones but many seem to be 9” deep and there’s some attractive prices on single sinks with moveable dividers. Given that the original was plumbed in over 20 years ago is a 9” deep sink likely to fit ok with new plumbing in (have techniques/materials changed much in 20 years to give more options is really what I’m asking). Would a single drain sink improve this situation much?
I guess the biggest issue is fitting U traps in and having the proper drain orientations for flow etc. However…I’m not a plumber and have no idea. Our contractor did say to try to find a sink as close to the current one’s dimensions but again, is 2” difference in depth close?
Looking at replacements I’ve found some good ones but many seem to be 9” deep and there’s some attractive prices on single sinks with moveable dividers. Given that the original was plumbed in over 20 years ago is a 9” deep sink likely to fit ok with new plumbing in (have techniques/materials changed much in 20 years to give more options is really what I’m asking). Would a single drain sink improve this situation much?
I guess the biggest issue is fitting U traps in and having the proper drain orientations for flow etc. However…I’m not a plumber and have no idea. Our contractor did say to try to find a sink as close to the current one’s dimensions but again, is 2” difference in depth close?
Undermount or over mount could be another few inches.
I am not a plumber but I think you can get away with one p trap to protect boths sinks.
Depth to bottom of sink is pretty important. A deep sink and tall people is a literal pain if you handwash often.
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