Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 311 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

@mimico , shouldn’t you be busy helping those city guys that lost a 4million dollar boring machine 7 meters short of the goal posts ?

I heard somebody forgot to look at a map , but it must be more complicated than that , or not


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
They hit some stuff they said they didn't know about. Then someone found a signed approval from the city that acknowledged the tie-backs. My guess is they didn't get added to a map. Fault probably lies with staff on the condo project. Boring machine just made the oversight expensive and very visible. I am a little surprised that they are spending 9M to rescue a 3M machine. There are some comments about avoiding environmental damage but you would think you could flush out oil with something friendly and leave it there to rust.
 
Second quote came in for siding....50k for the JH installed with trim...but no insulation.

Do these contractors not listen? I was crystal clear I want the insulation!

Went over my plan with my architect buddy...of course he had to kill the dream...

1. Shouldn't do horizontal furring strips because water may get trapped and rot (so do vertical - also recommended by a GTAMer recently)
2. Need air break b/w the brick and the rigid insulation so you let the brick breathe...but since you're not wood frame...may be ok. Frakkin hell

So now I'm questioning my sanity and what I'm getting myself into...
Have to ask, not sure if this came up, but does the shape of your house lend itself to doing siding? I am under the impression only certain styles or designs of house would be easier for it.
 
@mimico_polak as for the sanity of the plan, we have been working along the idea of, to quote Arnim Zola "The sanity of the plan is of no consequence.... Because he can do it."

As you know the ROI is terrible. IMO your brick is not my favourite but also not that bad to justify the costs based on cosmetics and others may like it (and covering may be negative resale...). Your construction is "double brick" and it does not transfer heat like (as bad as) stick construction without insulation. Insulation outside of the thermal mass is better than inside but....

What I would do (and more or less am doing):
  • Avoid using credit if possible.
  • Do an energy audit.
  • Steer into the skid and do trim colours that make the brick work the best it can.
  • Focus on air leaks as that is likely one of your biggest issues if you have old windows etc.
  • Replace windows and doors that are not special. Original architectural ones can have weather stripping added to make them sealed up.
  • Insulate all the rim joists, cut small holes in the basement ceiling to do so.
  • Insulate the area that are not brick outside (like bay windows, dormers etc.).
  • Attic insulation, from what I remember you posted you did this one.
  • Heat pump if not already there.
  • In some key rooms where there is concern or a reno insulate from the inside but keep R value down (like discussed), I would do 2" closed cell foam over the current wall board and drywall on-top.
On the last point, outside is better thermal mass wise, dew point in the brick, etc..... but going inside if one must I would leave the existing wall board in place, it is likely rock-lathe which is crazy heavy to dispose of but also given the age asbestos in the plaster and lead in the paint is a removal (and disposal) concern, specially living in the house.

For brick colour there are evil designers that paint it... but I have seen masonry stain that can do wonders these days, worth investigating if it is a problem.
I believe with double brick the walls are where the air leaks are. You can do all that other stuff, but the walls will just circumvent any of that.
I also have double brick in my bungalo and upstairs is so drafty.
I think I mentioned this before my parents just moved into a bungalo which they renovated, one of the things they did was stuco paint the outside walls. No extra insulation, my mom did it for cosmetic reasons. Anyhow I've noticed the house is much less drafty and they didn't do anything else to the walls. I think this kind created a air barrier or something similar to a house wrap but on the outside of the brick.
 
I believe with double brick the walls are where the air leaks are. You can do all that other stuff, but the walls will just circumvent any of that.
I also have double brick in my bungalo and upstairs is so drafty.
I think I mentioned this before my parents just moved into a bungalo which they renovated, one of the things they did was stuco paint the outside walls. No extra insulation, my mom did it for cosmetic reasons. Anyhow I've noticed the house is much less drafty and they didn't do anything else to the walls. I think this kind created an air barrier or something similar to a house wrap but on the outside of the brick.
This is where I’m hung up. How to properly insulate it so that it doesn’t damage the brick long term.

Brick needs to breathe and even a few days ago I could see wet spots on the brick and they disappeared within an hour or so.

If I install the insulation directly to the brick that eliminates the breathing of the brick. Unless I can find rigid insulation that can still let the brick breathe as with time I still want to do the interior properly (and if I put the rigid on the outside, can I put in a vapour barrier on the inside later - as architect said that is a big no no in wood frame construction as it won’t let the wall breathe and will develop moisture and mould).
 
This is where I’m hung up. How to properly insulate it so that it doesn’t damage the brick long term.

Brick needs to breathe and even a few days ago I could see wet spots on the brick and they disappeared within an hour or so.

If I install the insulation directly to the brick that eliminates the breathing of the brick. Unless I can find rigid insulation that can still let the brick breathe as with time I still want to do the interior properly (and if I put the rigid on the outside, can I put in a vapour barrier on the inside later - as architect said that is a big no no in wood frame construction as it won’t let the wall breathe and will develop moisture and mould).
Sounds tricky. But keep at it ;)
I thought with double brick there was an air gap between which does the breathing? The outter brick is just for mostly cosmetic/part structure?
 
Sounds tricky. But keep at it ;)
I thought with double brick there was an air gap between which does the breathing? The outter brick is just for mostly cosmetic/part structure?
If you vapour barrier inside and use rigid insulation on the outside, the brick has nowhere to breath. Yes, there is a gap between the two layers of brick but that air is trapped by the two barriers.
 
If you vapour barrier inside and use rigid insulation on the outside, the brick has nowhere to breath. Yes, there is a gap between the two layers of brick but that air is trapped by the two barriers.
Exactly what the architect said….if you insulate on the exterior with R10…can’t do much on the inside as the brick will get ruined with time.

So….either install siding for purely cosmetic purposes and then the interior insulation….or figure something else out.

I don’t plan on spending 20k on a guess…
 
Was out for a walk yesterday and noticed a lot of houses where one side of the brick looks great…but the sides look faded and worn away.

3F9FE348-9DF0-4275-8C21-4AC080239C4E.jpeg

This was just one example. Very different front face…compared to the side.
 
Boo. Kids giant dump/pile of tp plugged a drain. Master shower became a cesspool. Gross. 25' snake (longest I have) couldnt reach the clog. Plunger eventually got it. I was happy about that. If that failed, I could have pulled a cleanout port and snaked up to get it but when it let go, it would be a world of suck in the basement. Adding scheduled drain snaking to the list of preventative maintenance.
 
Went away on vacation so I dropped the house temp. With house at normal 68, furnace runs about eight hours a day. Dropped temp to 50 and it was off for a day and half while the house cooled off and ran about two hours a day to maintain. Bringing house back up to temp took about six hours at full power. Savings from one vacation paid for a lot of thermostat upgrade cost.

Edit:

Got home at midnight so cooling off house with a dumb thermostat wasnt really an option. Wife and kids would have been very grumpy if house was cold when we walked in.
 
Last edited:
Boo. Kids giant dump/pile of tp plugged a drain. Master shower became a cesspool. Gross. 25' snake (longest I have) couldnt reach the clog. Plunger eventually got it. I was happy about that. If that failed, I could have pulled a cleanout port and snaked up to get it but when it let go, it would be a world of suck in the basement. Adding scheduled drain snaking to the list of preventative maintenance.
If you can't snake it in the future.......home hardware has a "drain cleaner" in a plastic jug, that is wrapped in clear plastic. (at least they did yrs ago)
Not usually on the floor, but in the back. You need to ask for it. It works like magic. (don't think Draino)
I've kept a couple jugs on standby for years.
 
If you can't snake it in the future.......home hardware has a "drain cleaner" in a plastic jug, that is wrapped in clear plastic. (at least they did yrs ago)
Not usually on the floor, but in the back. You need to ask for it. It works like magic. (don't think Draino)
I've kept a couple jugs on standby for years.
I have a bottle of muriatic acid packed like that. It smokes a little when you use it. I am not all PPE all the time but I break out the goggles when I use that one.
 
Was out for a walk yesterday and noticed a lot of houses where one side of the brick looks great…but the sides look faded and worn away.

View attachment 59751

This was just one example. Very different front face…compared to the side.
Sand lime brick, little harder than chalk. I have a stash from renos but it's hard to match the texture.

Our chimney was rebuilt years ago and they used concrete brick. Since it isn't side by side it doesn't stand out as different.
 
Sand lime brick, little harder than chalk. I have a stash from renos but it's hard to match the texture.

Our chimney was rebuilt years ago and they used concrete brick. Since it isn't side by side it doesn't stand out as different.
That’s another concern I had with the siding installation of James Hardie…that brick isn’t meant to take tension so all that weight may pull itself off the wall…which would obviously be a disaster as it’s a structural brick…not decorative.
 
That’s another concern I had with the siding installation of James Hardie…that brick isn’t meant to take tension so all that weight may pull itself off the wall…which would obviously be a disaster as it’s a structural brick…not decorative.
I think you are overthinking that. You will have a few inches of cantilever. Use enough anchors so it's not one brick taking all the load and I would never expect a problem.
 
I think you are overthinking that. You will have a few inches of cantilever. Use enough anchors so it's not one brick taking all the load and I would never expect a problem.
I think so too. I was ready to pull the trigger on the LOWES order until the architect flagged the moisture issue to me…now I’m doubting my sanity of it.
 
I think so too. I was ready to pull the trigger on the LOWES order until the architect flagged the moisture issue to me…now I’m doubting my sanity of it.
Semi-rigid outside and air barrier allows moisture to move out. I probably wouldn't use foamboard in your situation.
 
I think you are overthinking that. You will have a few inches of cantilever. Use enough anchors so it's not one brick taking all the load and I would never expect a problem.
I have the same brick and I wasn't in the mood to carry six bundles of shingles up a ladder so scrounged through my "Might need it someday" pile and came up with a winch on a jib boom about five feet long. I anchored it in place with expansion bolts and tested it with two bundles of shingles for a few inches. It held fine. In use, I lifted one bundle at a time.

When renovating my daughter's kitchen I found that instead of the cinder block it had inner brick almost as bad as hard mud. One wall was OK to re insulate with 2X4's etc but a short wall was hampered by details that limited me to 2X2's. The inner brick wouldn't hold Tapcons or lags of any type. I ended up using threaded rod epoxied into the holes and bolting the strapping in place. OK for 60 square feet but not a whole exterior.
 

Back
Top Bottom