@mimico_polak yes this is right in my wheelhouse. Sorry didn't notice you tagging me earlier.
Some of the comments above all point in the right direction. Here is my $0.02
Type of Cabling:
CAT6 is all you really need. CAT7 is unnecessary for you application and you will probably be out of the house before you reach the limits of CAT6. Unless you plan on running some huge streaming service out of your house. You could even get away with CAT5e if you wanted to with gigabit hardware for traffic negotiation. Difference in cost of Cat5e and Cat6 is minimal so might as well go with what is accepted at the standard now (CAT6).
Drop locations:
You want to put as many drop location as you may anticipate using a device in that spot now or in the future. You may not have an office or TV in that spot today but in 1-2 years you will remodel and use that space as the kids entertainment room. Each location should get 1-2 drops at minimum as this will allow you to add more devices in the future. Home office location should be 3-4 drops. You want to avoid adding small network switches all over the house/office to "split" the signal. A single 5 port switch that is faulty can bring down the entire network and your are then running all over the place trying to find the cause of the issue. Having 1 larger switch is the better way to go as it keeps things clean, centralized and easier to manage. Any stationary device should be connected via hard wired ethernet(TVs, gaming consoles, printers, laptops, desktops etc.). Your wireless Wi-Fi should only be reserved for devices that cannot be hard wired i.e. phone, tablet, smart home devices etc. Even a laptop with no physical LAN port can be hardwired with an ethernet to USB adapter. Just as you can add a Ethernet to USB adapter to a Amazon Fire Stick etc.
As with anything, as long as you have the proper foundation and infrastructure in place you area ready for anything your mind comes up with in the future. Last thing you want to do is rip out walls again or say "Crap, I should have run an additional drop to this corner of the room"
Location of access points:
Access points should be located on the ceiling, on each floor, and centered to the floor plan as much as possible. If I can, I will stick them in a laundry room or possibly a closet (depending on size). Just to keep it out of the open area but still accessible. However, POE access points today are getting sexier and put your typical smoke detector that is already on your ceiling to shame.
Access points should be POE/POE+. Meaning the ethernet cable supplies the power to the device as well as transmits data.
They can be powered by a POE injector or a POE ready network switch. Switches with POE ports are a little more expensive but do save the space in the network rack as individual injectors are not needed.
When you have multiple access points hardwired on the network (a hardwired mesh) they all operate on the same SSID and act as 1 huge antenna. Your device (phone/tablet) will auto negotiate which physical unit is providing the better signal and use that WAP for any network connectivity.
If you want to get fancy, you can set up multiple SSIDs. Once for you and your family to use, one for your guests to use etc, etc. Even fancier, you can set limits and schedules on each SSIDs or device that is connected to the SSID. (i.e. KIDS-WiFi is only available between certain hours)
Location of Patch panel and main network switch:
The patch panel, which is your centralized point of termination for all your network drops should be accessible and kept in a cool/dry place. You want to avoid really hot places as the network switch is an electronic device and does not like heat. The attic is not the greatest place as it gets REALLY got in the summer. (should only be used as the last resort) Again, a closet or laundry room is a good spot for it. Even better in the basement.
Ideally you want your ISP router at this location and network switch with POE injectors if being used. If there are any other smart home devices or A/V equipment , it is a good idea to place them here as well of space allows for it.
Type of Hardware:
You want all your hardware to be rated for gigabit speed. (I don't know why they still sell 100Mbps switches) For your application TP-Link is perfectly fine when taking cost and performance into consideration. This goes for POE access points as well as network switches. Ubiquiti is another really popular brand but cost is much higher and you probably would not notice any performance difference. TP-Link devices are easy to set up, configure and troubleshoot if needed.
You want to go with WiFi6 rated access points but I bet you that is even overkill if you plan on having physical ethernet drops throughout the house.
Your router from the ISP is more than fine for your application, but there are many other options available.
The KISS principle applies here very well.
Mesh Wi-Fi:
These are typically aimed at DIYers or where running cables is not possible. Not to take anything away from DIYers or people who do not want to put up the cost or go through the trouble of running cables.
They do work and can work well, but nothing will beat a physical hardwired connection.
Hope that helps.
This type of work is one of the things I do for a living. Let me know when you want to tackle this and I would be more than happy to come by and help you out.
