Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 247 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

jc100 said:
Driveway next. Spent the morning pressure washing it. Looks pretty good but there’s a few big cracks and a low spot or two. It’s asphalt and I usually just buy what’s on sale at crappy tire. Is one thing better than another? I think someone posted earlier about fixing a low spot. I thought there was a product you put down, stick a board over it and then drive on it a few times to compact it and you’re done….,or was that just a wishful thinking daydream?
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General PDP Template

www.canadiantire.ca www.canadiantire.ca
This ^^ works amazing and is easy to use. Use a Rubberized crack filler for thin cracks then tar over the entire thing.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:

General PDP Template

www.canadiantire.ca www.canadiantire.ca
This ^^ works amazing and is easy to use. Use a Rubberized crack filler for thin cracks then tar over the entire thing.
Click to expand...
Will give this a whirl. Got a fair sized depression about 2-3ft wide and about 3-4” deep (if that).

More annoying than dangerous and first place the kids run to after a rain.

I assume it’s best applied during hot weather?
 
daught said:
Is it possible to protect laminate flooring from water damage that it can be installed in a kitchenette? I also have access to fairly cheap epoxy resin, but I am not sure how it would apply and look on top of flooring. One thing is sure though, epoxy is waterproof.
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Luxury vinyl tile? You can get wood look. Base material of vinyl instead of sawdust solves the water issue.
 
crankcall said:
I don’t think epoxy resin will adhere to a laminate floor face material , will crack and chip then release . I see a big mess in your future going that way.


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Also trying to get the bottom and every edge with enough epoxy to ensure a waterproof seal will be almost impossible. Even if the top layer held (which I doubt with a product that moves as much as laminate) water is merciless and will find a way past that layer to destroy from underneath. This needs to be a base product that can stand getting wet.
 
jc100 said:
Can I repoint a chimney myself? Before I go off to YouTube it has anyone done this? Is it easy?
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I don’t think repointing is easy and you may need some special tools.

Def doable, just depends on how into it you want to get.
 
I remember my dad was saying there was some tool for removing the old mortar. But I’m seeing the diy section is by hand…

IIRC it was something like alternating knives to basically loosen it up. Very messy.
 
mimico_polak said:
I remember my dad was saying there was some tool for removing the old mortar. But I’m seeing the diy section is by hand…

IIRC it was something like alternating knives to basically loosen it up. Very messy.
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I think you can use a grinder wheel….very carefully so you don’t zap the bricks.
 
jc100 said:
Can I repoint a chimney myself? Before I go off to YouTube it has anyone done this? Is it easy?
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How many linear feet? As some have posted there are tools ($1500) that saw away the mortar or for under $100 you can get a cheap grinder and a diamond blade that will cut 1" deep. Hammer and chisel to clean up.

Check what hardness of mortar you need. Too hard can cause the stones or bricks to spall.
 
jc100 said:
Can I repoint a chimney myself? Before I go off to YouTube it has anyone done this? Is it easy?
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It's not hard if it's just repointing. If bricks have shifted or broken due to freeze or other damage, it might not be in the realm of first time DIY projects as you're relaying and need to consider structural integrity.

You'll need a pointing trowels, I like 3/8 and a smaller 1/4" to clear and push into smaller voids. Type N mortar is best for chimneys, type O works well too.

I'm doing a few feet of a block wall foundation next week, I can post some pics if that helps.
 
Mad Mike said:
It's not hard if it's just repointing. If bricks have shifted or broken due to freeze or other damage, it might not be in the realm of first time DIY projects as you're relaying and need to consider structural integrity.

You'll need a pointing trowels, I like 3/8 and a smaller 1/4" to clear and push into smaller voids. Type N mortar is best for chimneys, type O works well too.

I'm doing a few feet of a block wall foundation next week, I can post some pics if that helps.
Click to expand...

thanks…I found this stuff which looks pretty foolproof for a quick fix


I might just get a few tubes to do the worst and get it professionally done next year.
 
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