Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 185 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

If it wasn’t for my dads suggestion to shorten the drywall anchors…I would’ve tossed those shelves out the window.

Engineer : I’m throwing these shelves out a window!

Semi retired Polish handyman : so shorten the anchors .

Engineer: I must have nodded off in that class

Semi retired Polish handyman : They didn’t teach you how to fix stuff , just calculate the angle of approach and load capacity , and tensile strength . It’s a shelf , on a wall . That 100 billion subway line in Scarborough, me and 12 buddies would have finished that by now , and the tracks would be level .


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Engineer : I’m throwing these shelves out a window!

Semi retired Polish handyman : so shorten the anchors .

Engineer: I must have nodded off in that class

Semi retired Polish handyman : They didn’t teach you how to fix stuff , just calculate the angle of approach and load capacity , and tensile strength . It’s a shelf , on a wall . That 100 billion subway line in Scarborough, me and 12 buddies would have finished that by now , and the tracks would be level .


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LMAO...alright you got me.

But there's very few Polaks that will build the Scarborough Subway Extension. LIUNA183 is very Portuguese heavy. Especially for underground work.
 
You fix that with tapcons , right through into the block . Paint the blue heads black


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What I have done to mount my TV etc. is just make larger holes and put concrete anchors in the block, use a longer screw and then fill in the holes.

In this vintage of a house tapcons are all but useless in the inner course of conctrete block, it is pretty soft.
 
What I have done to mount my TV etc. is just make larger holes and put concrete anchors in the block, use a longer screw and then fill in the holes.

In this vintage of a house tapcons are all but useless in the inner course of conctrete block, it is pretty soft.
My daughter's house is solid masonry with hard as the hubs of hell brick outside and red chalk inside. I drilled over-sized holes, and glued in threaded rod with epoxy.
 
My daughter's house is solid masonry with hard as the hubs of hell brick outside and red chalk inside. I drilled over-sized holes, and glued in threaded rod with epoxy.
Same here, outside brick is hard as hell, almost crazy hard. Inside cinder block is super soft.
 
So …. Cell phone signal boosters , I’m in a flat spot , nobody wanted cell towers in Oakville west LOL so my signal sucks . I’m seeing them in the $500-800 range for a home unit . I don’t mind spending that however I’d like to hear from somebody that has tried one . Another $500 toy that blinks is not better .
Thoughts ??


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So …. Cell phone signal boosters , I’m in a flat spot , nobody wanted cell towers in Oakville west LOL so my signal sucks . I’m seeing them in the $500-800 range for a home unit . I don’t mind spending that however I’d like to hear from somebody that has tried one . Another $500 toy that blinks is not better .
Thoughts ??


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I have one it actually works very well brings the signal from half a bar to full bars in the house antenna is up on a tower 40 ft above the roof

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@hdsomeday , for your grab bars if you measure out from a corner there is 'usually' a stud at 16" from the corner . The guys doing it for a living are using toggler zip anchors and the #12 screws in the bar kit. They do not always hit a stud, but I'm told they drill through the tile face where ever the bar makes sense and also put a BIG wad of silicone on the bar fitting, after 24hrs you need to actually pull tile off the wall as well as pull out any anchor. 12x24 tile well adhered would need a few hundred pounds of pull to remove it .
Thank you ! Picked up some zip anchors today. Now....need advice on drilling through the tile. I have never done it before and have no idea what drill bit to get. The little advice I have received said that there was a bit that you could fill with water to lessen the dust (never seen one anywhere) and the other advice was not to use a hammer drill (makes sense). Seen some u tube vids that dont help much.

I have a Ryobi cordless with 4ah batteries. If I crack a tile I'm f'd ("ruined my house, lost $$$ in resale value etc etc")
 
I
It is a weboost brand whole house amplifier

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I had a Wilson cell booster many years ago that worked great. It was portable so I could use it in the car or in the house. Just noticed that Wilson is now weBoost (or the reverse) so I would second weBoost (without the 40' antenna).
 
@hd , you’ll need a masonry bit . Split point if you can find it . I use diamond drills , because I had a lot to do .
Do not buy a cheap bit , the glaze of the tile is the hard part , once through that the rest is butter . Don’t push too hard .


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@hd , you’ll need a masonry bit . Split point if you can find it . I use diamond drills , because I had a lot to do .
Do not buy a cheap bit , the glaze of the tile is the hard part , once through that the rest is butter . Don’t push too hard .


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Thanks again. Zip anchors require 1/2 bit. I'm ok to start with that size?
 
Thanks again. Zip anchors require 1/2 bit. I'm ok to start with that size?
I would use a 14mm or 5/8 diamond hole bit, it should have a margin if going thru tile.

A masonry bit will work, but you need a very steady hand to keep it centered on porcelai, and feather soft hands to keep from cracking the tile as you go thru.

Find them on Amazon, search for porcelain tile bit.
 
Make small holes first , that way if you find a stud by accident you don’t have a whopping hole . You can always make bigger holes , smaller holes are hard .
Put up the handrail and put a pencil line around the perimeter of the flange when you mark the drill holes , then you can be sure the holes are all inside the safe zone .


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Make small holes first , that way if you find a stud by accident you don’t have a whopping hole . You can always make bigger holes , smaller holes are hard .
Put up the handrail and put a pencil line around the perimeter of the flange when you mark the drill holes , then you can be sure the holes are all inside the safe zone .


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Give the thing a good full body yank when you are dressed and wearing decent shoes and other appropriate PPE. It beats finding out when you're alone, naked and standing on a bar of soap.
 
Ice rink done. Do not try to reuse a liner. You would think that the centre would be good and the cuts would only be on the perimeter but you would be wrong. Somehow, someone will have managed to wound the centre and you will fight it to get a good solid layer of ice.

Upgraded snowblower. Gave the new one a solid workout. 1.5 hours of blowing snow from the lawn into a pile to make a toboggan hill for the kids.
 
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Ice rink done. Do not try to reuse a liner. You would thing that the centre would be good and the cuts would only be on the perimeter but you would be wrong. Somehow, someone will have managed to wound the centre and you will fight it to get a good solid layer of ice.

Upgraded snowblower. Gave the new one a solid workout. 1.5 hours of blowing snow from the lawn into a pile to make a toboggan hill for the kids.
My ice rink is good for the first time in years it has actually been cold enough.
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My ice rink is good for the first time in years it has actually been cold enough.
bdd66badbcb5db19dd7593c86d5d1905.jpg


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That is an order of magnitude larger. Ours is ~21x24' this year. Snowblower will make leveling easier next year so we can probably go up to 600 or 800 sq ft. Creating a level surface with a shovel and recycle bin takes lots of hours.
 

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