Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 163 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Rip up the inside , rip up the outside . I don’t envy either choice . Best of luck .


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Here is the plan....

1641561523017.png

Some questions I have though that need to be researched before it....

- does their need to be an air entry point along the line
- can the water free flow into the line to the drain? Or does it need a hard connection?
- perforated pipe in the bottom? or solid PVC line straight to the drain (I don't see evidence of any other line

I plan on running the snake along the line once I remove another step or two just to see if there are obstructions. Not sure if dad has a snake camera. But will look into it first before we plug it all up.


Fun weekend ahead.

Rip up the inside , rip up the outside . I don’t envy either choice . Best of luck .


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If this is the source, then nothing to rip up outside. Otherwise I'd have to tear out the driveway as the line is under the driveway, and then start looking for a broken / collapsed clay pipe. Maybe in the summer if I'm really bored.
 
It looks like a clean open end. Nothing else is there. Only thing I can blame Kevin on this one is not capping it. Who knows.

It's 12ft to the drain, at 1" drop for every 8ft that's a drop of about 1.5" over the length.

I just plan on cutting into the ground, putting in a weeping tile pipe, and letting it free flow into the drain. I'll try to get a camera in there but that won't be easy and I assume the pipe is collapsed somewhere along the line. I'm just surprised that it's coming INTO the house where it should be flowing away from the house.

EDIT: Considering it's a straight shot, wondering if it's better off to use a hard white PVC line, or the big 3-4" weeping tile lines.
3" hard solid PVC is inexpensive and easy to work with. If the ground is wet when you dig the trench, use perf PVC (drain holes down) to relieve any water buildup under your slab.
 
3" hard solid PVC is inexpensive and easy to work with. If the ground is wet when you dig the trench, use perf PVC (drain holes down) to relieve any water buildup under your slab.
That’s what I was thinking but possibly going to the 2”. But 3” will allow better flow.

Thanks!
 
Here is the plan....

View attachment 52810

Some questions I have though that need to be researched before it....

- does their need to be an air entry point along the line
- can the water free flow into the line to the drain? Or does it need a hard connection?
- perforated pipe in the bottom? or solid PVC line straight to the drain (I don't see evidence of any other line

I plan on running the snake along the line once I remove another step or two just to see if there are obstructions. Not sure if dad has a snake camera. But will look into it first before we plug it all up.


Fun weekend ahead.


If this is the source, then nothing to rip up outside. Otherwise I'd have to tear out the driveway as the line is under the driveway, and then start looking for a broken / collapsed clay pipe. Maybe in the summer if I'm really bored.
I have a longish endoscope (iirc 100'). Can your snake advance without spinning? The one I have is on a cable so it cant be pushed, it needs something else to drag it along.
 
Here is the plan....

View attachment 52810

Some questions I have though that need to be researched before it....

- does their need to be an air entry point along the line
- can the water free flow into the line to the drain? Or does it need a hard connection?
- perforated pipe in the bottom? or solid PVC line straight to the drain (I don't see evidence of any other line

I plan on running the snake along the line once I remove another step or two just to see if there are obstructions. Not sure if dad has a snake camera. But will look into it first before we plug it all up.


Fun weekend ahead.


If this is the source, then nothing to rip up outside. Otherwise I'd have to tear out the driveway as the line is under the driveway, and then start looking for a broken / collapsed clay pipe. Maybe in the summer if I'm really bored.
Q- does their need to be an air entry point along the line
Not for a weeper, the water level is a trickle, the drain line never fills and there is nothing to siphon.

Q- can the water free flow into the line to the drain? Or does it need a hard connection?
A cemented connection is best at the drain end, at the weeper end you can use a mole pipe connector OR butt the pipes together line up the pipes. Just make sure they don't shift when you backfill.

Q- perforated pipe in the bottom? or solid PVC line straight to the drain (I don't see evidence of any other line
A- As mentioned before, perf vs solid depends on whether the trench is wet. If it is, you can relieve water in the area of the trench with perf. I'd use 3" - easier to work with, less digging, less dirt to haulout, gives you an extra inch of slope (over 4").
 
I have a longish endoscope (iirc 100'). Can your snake advance without spinning? The one I have is on a cable so it cant be pushed, it needs something else to drag it along.
It’ll double check with dad but the camera can be connected 5-6” behind the spinning head. But I’ll check.
 
C5A567D7-BA26-4371-90A4-BEC628F650B0.jpeg
Our window/trim crew weren’t nearly as good as yours when they did our custom home last year. Had our Tarion inspection and they’re paying out to fix most of the issues including paint as builder didn’t bother fixing them.
This is the window casing in the ensuite. Had lines and gouges that should have been sanded, missed areas not painted, etc. Now I can finish the house myself the way it should have been done. Plenty of lumps/divets in trim nails, paint runs, roller fluff in paint, nicks in drywall just painted over, etc.
 
View attachment 52817
Our window/trim crew weren’t nearly as good as yours when they did our custom home last year. Had our Tarion inspection and they’re paying out to fix most of the issues including paint as builder didn’t bother fixing them.
This is the window casing in the ensuite. Had lines and gouges that should have been sanded, missed areas not painted, etc. Now I can finish the house myself the way it should have been done. Plenty of lumps/divets in trim nails, paint runs, roller fluff in paint, nicks in drywall just painted over, etc.
Disappointed but not at all surprised.
 
How the hell am I gonna connect to this thing?

5EB96318-EDDC-492C-A3FD-A08CDDC5604F.jpeg

8DB6A4C9-73BA-468F-886B-6364F8ADD705.jpeg
 
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Snake the clay for sure , you can use a fernco hub coupler , most home centres have them , rubber collars inside a stainless band , very good range of compression


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Which way does the clay slope, to the house or away?

Are those pipes aligned?

Connecting should not be a problem, you can slide 3" pvc into the 4" clay then grout it in place.
Pipes are not aligned unfortunately. About a 2-3” misalignment to the next clay pipe.

@GreyGhost the snake went about 15ft before it got bogged down. That’s somewhere under the garage.

F78A20AB-88F0-454D-AEF8-570CD5391B8E.jpeg

Biggest issue in joining pipes is I got nothing to grip to on the OD of the clay pipe. But if I can make it work inside then that may do the trick.

Plumber said not to reduce to a smaller diameter…but not sure what options I may have here but to go to a 3” or whatever fits within the clay pipe.

EDIT: ID of the clay pipe is 3.83”.
 
there isnt a lot of flow so im sure you can go down to anything that fits
You're right. In all honesty I'm tempted to just let it gravity feed to another spot below the stairs and then let it meet up with a weeping tile.

I know that's not the proper way to do it though. It's the Kevin way.

I think if I throw in a 3" line in there (if it fits) and use hydraulic cement...should be fine. But I might put in a line that I can access later on for running a snake in the future.
 
How the hell am I gonna connect to this thing?

View attachment 52818

View attachment 52819

Plus this


will adapt down to 3" pipe. if you are doing your trench to the drain just add those 2 items plus a 90 elbow.

But @Mad Mike idea is interesting as well.
Also with the condition of the clay pipes there could be other problems if you just attach whatever to the end, the water could be going around it. Hopefully it makes more sense when you look at it.
 
Clay pipes lasted a thousand years in Roman plumbing , why can’t we get 30 yrs out of a weeper in Canada ?


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@sburns neither of those options work as the clay pipe is flush with the concrete wall.

Need something that goes inside the clay…or need to chip out 2-3” of concrete around the clay pipe to get something to connect the rubber to. May be able to chip out the clay and install a PVC ring.

Will look at options now.
 

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