Does the fact that someone is a trained professional (and, *gasp*, actually knows what he's talking about! The horror!) offend you?
Draining coolant/water for winter and not refilling, any damage?
- Thread starter 油井緋色
- Start date
Does the fact that someone is a trained professional (and, *gasp*, actually knows what he's talking about! The horror!) offend you?
mbroyda
Well-known member
LMAO, did I sound offended?
Does the fact that someone has a sense of humor (*gasp* the horror!!!) offend you?
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A emoticon might help communicate the humour in the future, then. 
LupusInterOves
Member
I do get that a lot. Just not because I'm an engineer
The engineer part usually means people pay me good money for my knowledge regarding automotive/mechanical technical matters. As opposed to terrible attempts at humour deprecating others.
LupusInterOves
Member
Ha ha ha, more like still waiting for you to actually contribute to this thread instead of trying to attack me because I might so happen to know what I'm talking about. Lemme guess, feeling a little inadequate?
I hope not. That's my job around here to feel inadequate and make non relevant posts.
Mission accomplished. ?
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mbroyda
Well-known member
lol, its take a lot more than an automotive specialized mechanical engineer working for a multinational auto manufacturer to make me feel inadequate.
I didn't offer my opinion on the topic as it was already covered by someone who is not an automotive specialized mechanical engineer working for a multinational auto manufacturer.
what is it you engineer exactly, because if its something other than cooling systems then you being an automotive specialized mechanical engineer working for a multinational auto manufacturer, would not add to you credibility
LupusInterOves
Member
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LupusInterOves
Member
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That doesn't describe me at all.
Guess I'm not a troll.
Continue to feed me ice cream.
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Stupid question : my Haynes manual & owners manual never mention (unless I missed it) that I need to use motorcycle specific coolant. So the green Prestone pre mix that I use in my car (that was mentioned earlier ) is ok for it?
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As long as it is compatible with aluminum (should say so on the label)
As long as it is compatible with the type of coolant that is already in there, if it is not water. Certain types of coolant additives don't play nice with others. (OAT / HOAT versus "conventional", i.e. certain types of "long life" versus the standard stuff - It is known, for example, that VW G12 and similar coolants which are HOAT, mixed with conventional green stuff, results in brown sludge that clogs up the system). If this is unknown for whatever reason, flush the system completely.
For a track bike that is only using water, it is a whole lot easier to just drain out the water+WaterWetter (or equivalent) that is in there the best you can, not worry about the small residual liquid pockets (as long as they are SMALL, they won't do any damage ... your ice cube tray in the fridge doesn't break when the water freezes ... same situation), and not worry about having to flush the system several times over in the spring to get all of the coolant out.
A seal that sees no relative motion (engine not running ...) need not be lubricated. A cooling system that is drained and sealed (radiator cap on ...) isn't subject to corrosion - the electrolyte (water) is not there and the oxygen (replenished from the atmosphere) is not there. Residual pockets of water+WaterWetter will have residual amounts of corrosion inhibitor in them anyhow. The cooling system drain screw/hose is at the lowest point in the system and if you tilt the bike left and right as much as you comfortably can after most of the water has drained out until it stops dripping, there won't be enough water left in the system to mean anything. (Read your service manual - some engines have multiple drain points.) If you put a piece of tape over the ignition switch with "NO COOLANT" written on it, there is your reminder to fill the system before starting the engine when springtime comes.
Done it for years before moving to a place where I have an indoor heated shop ... never had an issue ... plenty of others same situation.
As long as it is compatible with the type of coolant that is already in there, if it is not water. Certain types of coolant additives don't play nice with others. (OAT / HOAT versus "conventional", i.e. certain types of "long life" versus the standard stuff - It is known, for example, that VW G12 and similar coolants which are HOAT, mixed with conventional green stuff, results in brown sludge that clogs up the system). If this is unknown for whatever reason, flush the system completely.
For a track bike that is only using water, it is a whole lot easier to just drain out the water+WaterWetter (or equivalent) that is in there the best you can, not worry about the small residual liquid pockets (as long as they are SMALL, they won't do any damage ... your ice cube tray in the fridge doesn't break when the water freezes ... same situation), and not worry about having to flush the system several times over in the spring to get all of the coolant out.
A seal that sees no relative motion (engine not running ...) need not be lubricated. A cooling system that is drained and sealed (radiator cap on ...) isn't subject to corrosion - the electrolyte (water) is not there and the oxygen (replenished from the atmosphere) is not there. Residual pockets of water+WaterWetter will have residual amounts of corrosion inhibitor in them anyhow. The cooling system drain screw/hose is at the lowest point in the system and if you tilt the bike left and right as much as you comfortably can after most of the water has drained out until it stops dripping, there won't be enough water left in the system to mean anything. (Read your service manual - some engines have multiple drain points.) If you put a piece of tape over the ignition switch with "NO COOLANT" written on it, there is your reminder to fill the system before starting the engine when springtime comes.
Done it for years before moving to a place where I have an indoor heated shop ... never had an issue ... plenty of others same situation.
mbroyda
Well-known member
yes, but are you a automotive specialized mechanical engineer working for a multinational auto manufacturer??
Not quite, but pretty close ... What I do have, regarding motorcycle cooling systems on track bikes, is "actual field experience" ...
To the naysayers... ignore the advice from people who have the "been there done that" experience and roll the dice instead. Wonder how many "Hey, where's the coolant leaking out of my engine?" threads we'll see in the spring?
$13 at Canadian Tire is a lot to spend on ensuring your engine survives the winter, after all.
Just saw this.
Don't call people stupid.
That's not nice. We play nice.
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