TK4
Well-known member
Oil change every 1,000 kms ?Yup.
That's nuts - or is that just for first service, then every 4,000 kms after that ?
Than motor must be very hard on oil to require that kind of schedule.
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Do the 5L Rotella T6 jugs ever go on sale?
- Thread starter KWDRZ
- Start date
That's nuts - or is that just for first service, then every 4,000 kms after that ?
Than motor must be very hard on oil to require that kind of schedule.
I've seen lots of spent motors caused by the wrong oil.
There was a time I was racing an EX500, and going through motors like crazy. I was building motors for me and two other racers, so I wanted at least five spares at any given time.
EVERY time I split the case and smelled diesel oil, I KNEW the left side of the crank was done. EVERY TIME.
Marketing is a HUGE problem, OPINIONS are a HUGE problem, but the TRUTH is out there.
There was a time I was racing an EX500, and going through motors like crazy. I was building motors for me and two other racers, so I wanted at least five spares at any given time.
EVERY time I split the case and smelled diesel oil, I KNEW the left side of the crank was done. EVERY TIME.
Marketing is a HUGE problem, OPINIONS are a HUGE problem, but the TRUTH is out there.
But what about Street motors? Do you think people need to run 300V in their Street bike?
Story time:
I was involved in building drag cars for years.
We were building a big block Coronet, and at the time we were using Ray Barton as a motor builder. Ray is the current NHRA title holder for super Stock, and all the top contenders use his motors.
Ray told me he could find 18 horse power in a 383 based motor, just with oil control.
Over the weekend on the dyno, just by making changes to the oiling systems, he got 22 HP out of our motor.
That 22 HP won us LOTS of races.
During this time, I was pulling that car around with my Astro van, which would get regular oil changes with 15-40 rotella.
I started documenting the van and found that when I used the SPEC oil in that van I got about 7% better gas mileage over Rotella... so the monies I was saving on oil I was spending on gas... but I was putting A LOT more gas in the van that oil, so it was actually a loser... not to mention that if I was losing gas mileage, I was also losing HORSE POWER.
I don't use Rotella in high revving gas motors any more.
I was involved in building drag cars for years.
We were building a big block Coronet, and at the time we were using Ray Barton as a motor builder. Ray is the current NHRA title holder for super Stock, and all the top contenders use his motors.
Ray told me he could find 18 horse power in a 383 based motor, just with oil control.
Over the weekend on the dyno, just by making changes to the oiling systems, he got 22 HP out of our motor.
That 22 HP won us LOTS of races.
During this time, I was pulling that car around with my Astro van, which would get regular oil changes with 15-40 rotella.
I started documenting the van and found that when I used the SPEC oil in that van I got about 7% better gas mileage over Rotella... so the monies I was saving on oil I was spending on gas... but I was putting A LOT more gas in the van that oil, so it was actually a loser... not to mention that if I was losing gas mileage, I was also losing HORSE POWER.
I don't use Rotella in high revving gas motors any more.
I am of the opinion that "street" motors have a harder go of it than "race" motors.
Race motors get a lot more maintenance and are operated in MUCH more controlled environment. You hopefully don't see clapped out motors on the track like you do on the street.
My favorite is the idiots that put real "race" oil in their street bike... CUZ RACE OIL, IT'S GOTTA BE BETTER.
REAL race oil doesn't have the viscosity stabilizers needed to use on the street and is made to last a couple of hours till it loses almost ALL of it's viscosity.
In these oil thread everyone talks about the BEST oil, but nobody ever mentions Brad Penn oil.
Brad Penn is, arguably, the BEST oil.
Trials
Well-known member
Considering the manufacturer spec oil was 5W-30
wtf did you not run the Rotella 10-30
This is actually true to some extent, and is the reason why newer passenger cars will use grades like 0w20. Another big part of it is that the friction modifiers that passenger car oils use - which wet clutch motorcycles don't like - are there for a reason. The reduced friction increases fuel economy.
To a point: YES, but the motor MUST be designed to use "thinner" oil
The issue with Rotella, and the like, is it contains so many viscosity stabilizers and other additives that the additives are displacing lubricating oils by volume, meaning it lasts longer but doesn't lubricate as well
To use the newer 0w or 5w oils the motor has to have a VERY small oil gap in the big end and main bearings or you will have pre-mature bearing wear at startup.
Those newer light oils are for clean burn at start up.
The 'friction modifiers" are a separate issue, and can be added to any viscosity oil.
No motorcycle engine is using the small oil clearances in the big end YET as their emission standards are not as stringent... YET
That would be missing the point of using Rotella oil.Considering the manufacturer spec oil was 5W-30
Rotella oil is CHEAP oil. Rotella oil is NOT good oil. Ask any trucker that owns his own truck.
The ONLY reason I was using Rotella was I could buy it for $3 a litre. I can buy spec oil for $4 a litre, cheaper than Rotella synth.
... and the truck had over 400,000km on it so I imagine the big ends had loosened up a bit....
TK4
Well-known member
Oil - the final frontier
https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/news-and-views/advice/bike-maintenance/best-oil-for-my-motorcycle?fbclid=IwAR11DcHYSrnA9GhBlH17KFHb-iUfmAZxYCl5T8X3rDiCnXnRBhBTD-iiK4c
www.gtamotorcycle.com
The 5L jugs of T6 synthetic are on Rollback at WM for $35.97 right now
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