Yup... to each his own. Whatever floats your boat.
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Do the 5L Rotella T6 jugs ever go on sale?
- Thread starter KWDRZ
- Start date
BigEvilDoer
Well-known member
On sale again at CT. 15% off for anyone interested.
J_F
Guest
CTC has their Formula 1 dino oil on sale
5.99 per litre is pretty good for a decent quality JASO oil
5.99 per litre is pretty good for a decent quality JASO oil
-Maverick-
Well-known member
Don't use the T6 blue jugs with energy efficient stickers on them in Husqvarna's...learned this the hard way.
Otherwise, have at it.
The guy formerly known as Mladin.
Otherwise, have at it.
The guy formerly known as Mladin.
BigEvilDoer
Well-known member
Are you sure it was T6 and not T5 in the silver jug?
The T6 conforms to JASO-MA and JASO-MA2 requirements. No friction modifiers.
-Maverick-
Well-known member
The blue jug, T6...the question is out there if it was reformulated. Cafe Husky has all kinds of clutch slippage threads on it.
The guy formerly known as Mladin.
BigEvilDoer
Well-known member
Well, if there were friction modifiers added, they couldn't claim JASO-MA/2. Weird that it only effects Husky's though. Maybe it's something in the metal composition of their clutch plates. dunno. *Shrug*
Stopped using Rotella on my inline 4's. The shifting gets noticeably worse 1,500km or so, I can tell the oil is breaking down fast at that point. Seems like others have noticed the crappy shift quality with Rotella, seems to shear fast with the wet clutch and such.
Went back to using Motul for a tiny bit more money and much happier with the shift feel even 4,000km into a change.
I'm sure I will get hate for this because I dare dislike the rotella diesel god but yep! Use it if it works I guess. It's not even that cheap anymore unless you're lugging the pails.
Went back to using Motul for a tiny bit more money and much happier with the shift feel even 4,000km into a change.
I'm sure I will get hate for this because I dare dislike the rotella diesel god but yep! Use it if it works I guess. It's not even that cheap anymore unless you're lugging the pails.
-Maverick-
Well-known member
And KTM. Read here:
Looking to get an rc8
www.ktmforums.com
"Again, KTM specifies only full synthetic. I wouldn't want to 2nd guess KTM engineers with regard to specification. Let your new bike have a full synthetic.
Rotella T6 is a full synthetic oil. However, it's the wrong type. T6 is rated by the API (American Pertoleum Institute) as Energy Conserving. This rating is indicated by direct notation on the bottle. All oils that are rated for EC have an additive packages that rely on higher levels of friction modifiers to produce improved fuel economy. You should never use an EC oil in an application with a wet clutch like the RC8R. The friction modifers will affect the clutch plates and may lead to clutch slippage or sticking when engaging."
"difference between jaso ma and ma2 is that ma2 came about in circa 2006 when bikes started coming with cat's. so the issue is again with the cats that most of us get rid of and not with wet clutch friction.
MA to MA2 entails a reduction in the level of key anti-wear additives in the oil, namely Phosphorus and Zinc. An MA oil will tend to have more Phos/Zinc anti-wear additive by ppm count than an MA2 oil."
Also, click here for more on the reformulation theory:
LMGTFY - Let Me Google That For You
For all those people who find it more convenient to bother you with their question rather than to Google it for themselves.
Affecting all kinds of wet clutch bikes.
All I know is that I had two stranded Huskies...both with just under 1000 km's. If you do your own oil changes on Huskies, you'll know it's not the easiest oil change to do. Two drain plugs, two screens, two filters, so needless to say, I was not impressed to have to redo both.
No more Rotella for me.
The guy formerly known as Mladin.
4,000km on a 2L capacity motor? No wonder the oil is breaking down.
What? You must not have looked at the intervals on street bikes or just not familiar with them... The FZ6 for example is 4000 miles. I assume the confusion is my username, in which case I see what you're saying but I did say I4 bikes in the post. Which is 2.8l. Nearly as much as smaller passenger cars.
Personally I never have gone that long on Rotella, as I said in my post because at 1,500 it already felt like ****. The most I ever did on Rotella was 2,000km in a weekend and I changed it.
I change my oil "early" compared to most people I know using Motul. 4,000km would be an absolute maximum. I'm sure it could go significantly longer and maintain the quality.
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ZDDP is not the only anti-wear additive manufacturers can use. Also, the vast majority of motorcycle branded oils on the shelf are also JASO MA2 rated anyway, including the stalwart Motul 7100.
JASO MA2 also has more narrowly defined friction standards than MA did. Any Shell Rotella grade that lists MA2 isn't actually JASO certified, so Shell could be lying... I don't think so though
Regularly put 5000-6000km per oil change on my old VTX using Rotella T (Dino) and it ran like a top through all 80,000KM or so I put on it in 5 years of ownership, and ran like a top when I handed it off to the next owner. Oil change recommendation is 4000 Miles.
I just noticed something today - I would have sworn that the oil change interval for the CB919 was ~3000 miles. I was flipping through the service manual though, and... it's 8000 miles? 12,800 km? Cross checked with the owner's manual and sure enough, same thing.
I'm no mechanical engineer, but the CB919 still has a regular old shared sump transmission (having a brain fart and can't remember the right term for that). How would the oil not shear down to water? And it definitely doesn't specify synthetic, just regular oil Honda GN4 10w40 which I don't think has a unicorn tears additive package.
Do you remember what the factory interval was on the VTX?
8000 miles as well IIRC.
Modern engines don’t abuse the oil like the old days. Manufacturers wouldn’t put those high numbers in there if they weren’t safe.
I went to 8000km on at least one oil change (some local rides plus then the trip to Wyoming and SD last year) and the oil seemed just fine coming out - viscosity was still good. Black of course, but to be expected.
I considered extending to 10,000km changes, but meh, 6000-8000 was fine considering a DIY change with Rotella and a Wix filter was only $25 or so.
Modern engines don’t abuse the oil like the old days. Manufacturers wouldn’t put those high numbers in there if they weren’t safe.
I went to 8000km on at least one oil change (some local rides plus then the trip to Wyoming and SD last year) and the oil seemed just fine coming out - viscosity was still good. Black of course, but to be expected.
I considered extending to 10,000km changes, but meh, 6000-8000 was fine considering a DIY change with Rotella and a Wix filter was only $25 or so.
T4 or T6. 1.9L dry sump. No clutch slip with either. Dump it at 600km.
TK4
Well-known member
So change it out 2 or 3 times more often than the manual recommends with cheap oil - wouldn't it be more cost effective (and less time consuming) to just use premium oil in the first place ?
Oil and chain lube opinions are like *ssholes - everybody's got one...
Main reason I use T6 isn't even cause of the price but because it's so easy to find. I can just get it from the CT 5 mins away whereas for the other stuff I have to either order it online or make a trip to Royal (pre-quarantine).
I just ordered some Ipone Katana 10w50 full synthetic for my KTM so when that finally arrives I'll see how that works.
I just ordered some Ipone Katana 10w50 full synthetic for my KTM so when that finally arrives I'll see how that works.
Never seen a street motor failure due to oil regardless of oil brand or type. Sure you need to consider your wet clutch, but i think there is way too much marketing involved.
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