This is the information I’m working off of from another forum, it been quoted many times, and people have reported back that the results are great. There is also a procedure to lap the head so the head gasket can seal properly (which I have already done, the head and barrels were definitely not flat before)
But I can tell you from much experience. all you need do is hone you cylinders to be round and straight even if you need to exceed the wear limit by as much as ,127 mm .005"
The knurl or prick punch the piston skirt to rub into those new bores.
Then purchase a set on 1/2mm OS rings. re gap them to fit the new bores with a gap of no more that .005" throw away the new oil ring expander and use the old one as this item cannot be gapped to suit the bore size.
FFS - fix it right or don't fix it at all. Oversize rings on a standard piston ???
Ghetto repairs mean doing it again sooner than later.
I'll take the advice of a seasoned engine builder or machinist over 'something I read on the web' any day.
I hear what everyone is saying, I understand that this is not the “right” way, but if it works it will be good enough.
The bike is not worth the cost of oversized pistons, but if I’m able to get to run without burning oil for a set of rings, it will be good enough till I’m in a better spot financially. This bike was/is for the wife, she got her license last year and it just needs to fill the gap for her to build up her skills and find out what she actually wants in a motorcycle.
FFS - fix it right or don't fix it at all. Oversize rings on a standard piston ???
Ghetto repairs mean doing it again sooner than later.
I'll take the advice of a seasoned engine builder or machinist over 'something I read on the web' any day.
My friend who is a machinist of 25 years says he can’t see a reason that it won’t work as long as the piston is square in the bore , but agrees with me and everyone else that it’s not the proper way to do things.
Ok, so we all in agreement that I’m a idiot for trying this, my original question was if anyone had first hand knowledge of a shop that had a vertical honing machine. That machine with the ridged hone is designed remove material to achieve round parallel bores
Ok, so we all in agreement that I’m a idiot for trying this, my original question was if anyone had first hand knowledge of a shop that had a vertical honing machine. That machine with the ridged hone is designed remove material to achieve round parallel bores
Ok, so we all in agreement that I’m a idiot for trying this, my original question was if anyone had first hand knowledge of a shop that had a vertical honing machine. That machine with the ridged hone is designed remove material to achieve round parallel bores
If the bike is not worth spending money on, then don't spend money on it. Throw it back together with new pistons and rings the way it is, and keep an eye on the oil level. Maybe it'll burn oil, maybe not. The out-of-round cylinders might be an issue, or maybe not. The cheap way that you're proposing to fix this, is inviting more trouble than you already have. Oil is cheaper than a rebuild.
If the bike is not worth spending money on, then don't spend money on it. Throw it back together with new pistons and rings the way it is, and keep an eye on the oil level. Maybe it'll burn oil, maybe not. The out-of-round cylinders might be an issue, or maybe not. The cheap way that you're proposing to fix this, is inviting more trouble than you already have. Oil is cheaper than a rebuild.
You missed the part where he is going to knurl the standard pistons and install a set of first over rings on said pistons.
He saw it on the web, so it must work ?
I hear what everyone is saying, I understand that this is not the “right” way, but if it works it will be good enough.
The bike is not worth the cost of oversized pistons, but if I’m able to get to run without burning oil for a set of rings, it will be good enough till I’m in a better spot financially. This bike was/is for the wife, she got her license last year and it just needs to fill the gap for her to build up her skills and find out what she actually wants in a motorcycle.
Check the piston-ring end gaps with the stock rings that you've got now before you go and do something silly.
You don't have the tools to properly set piston-ring end gaps. Stock-bore OEM piston rings for last-few-decades Japanese engines normally don't need gapping although they should still be checked.
Check the piston-ring end gaps with the stock rings that you've got now before you go and do something silly.
You don't have the tools to properly set piston-ring end gaps. Stock-bore OEM piston rings for last-few-decades Japanese engines normally don't need gapping although they should still be checked.
The ring that came out of the engine has a gap of .016 at the very top, half inch down is .018”. The rings from the used replacement piston yield the same results.
I’m genuinely curious, what is so special with setting ring gaps? I can blue off sealing surfaces in injection moulds after a welding repair. I should be able to file/grind a ring?
I’m trying to learn and gather information
I appreciate everyone who contributed.
I know what needs to be done to be right, but it’s not worth the expense.
I’m trying to find a balance between cost, and the best or least wrong way.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
