Fine. you win this round. still hate.
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consequences of having dropped the bike 3 times in one ride.....??
- Thread starter hybrid
- Start date
3 drops in one day is pretty rough. However most people forget what its like to ride for the first time that have been riding for a long time.
The very first time i ever went out on the street i had all the basics down, i could turn, stop, shift, did the course yada yada. I get out on the road, cars are everywhere, bike stalls in the middle of the intersection and all of the sudden i forget the shift pattern, is it up to get to first or down?? hahaha
Stress is a funny thing.
The very first time i ever went out on the street i had all the basics down, i could turn, stop, shift, did the course yada yada. I get out on the road, cars are everywhere, bike stalls in the middle of the intersection and all of the sudden i forget the shift pattern, is it up to get to first or down?? hahaha
Stress is a funny thing.
Griffin
Well-known member
I agree.
And I agree with this too.
For those that are crapping on you for dropping your bike - well, I'd get an infraction if I write what I feel like writing.
I'm big and very strong and have been riding for 35 years. Every now and then I come close to dropping my bike due to some low speed error. Sometimes my size and strength is all that saves it. If I was smaller I wouldn't save it and the bike would go down.
Stalling on a slow tight turn is the thing that I advised my wife when she was learning is the most likely thing to cause a rider to fall over. I still believe that to be true and it is still the thing I screw up at times. You had it happen three times in a row but, as noted, your stress level and nerves were probably working overtime and I would have been a nervous wreck in your shoes by the time the honking bus was on my butt.
Bottom line is, put the experience behind you and get on with your riding life.
Regarding the bike, a carburreted bike can be finicky. You need to get to know how your bike behaves and how the choke affects it at different temperatures. Starting the bike cold may require full choke for 2 -3 minutes, then partial choke for another few minutes. You may start out with partial choke on a cold day but then you need to be aware of that and adjust the choke as you go. If you stop the bike before it's completey warm, or if its a cold day, you may need partial choke to get it going again. Depends on the bike.
The way I tell that the bike is warm enough and ready to go is fire it up with however much choke it needs. Let it warm up a bit then twist the throttle sharply. If there is ANY hesitation, it is NOT warm enough.
Good luck.
Thanks very much for the note! Now you just explained what I observed in my limited experience. I learned on a CBR125 so I kinda have to figure out this whole "choke" thing by myself...trial n error...
One question, when the engine is warm enough, should I close the choke completely? I didn't care too much about it until now. I think I always left it open a tiny bit... not sure if I have damaged my baby by doing this...
dr_sarcasm
Well-known member
Outside of some very good advice from others regarding taking the course and then figuring out how you feel about riding (i.e. do some soul searching if you think you're ready to take on the fun and risks associated), the above statement is very true - I can't recall the number of times some little distraction leads me to almost dropping the bike at low speeds (so, don't feel overly bad that you fell victim to this as it happens to both grizzled vets and beginners alike).
NealT
Well-known member
No you won't damage the bike but it will run the rpm's a little high on idle. I notice on my Ninja that once it's warm and I leave the choke on the bike is less "spright" right off the line from idle. Once I close the choke completely it's better, it has better throttle response from idle.
Thanks! So I guess I will start to close it completely when the engine is warm enough.
If the bike stalls everytime you try to get the clutch out there could be a mechanical problem fromthe tip over. One issue we see often is a Side stand Safety Switch. If the switch is still out even when the stand is up the engine will stall as you let out the clutch.
NealT
Well-known member
Yup, you can also close it in stages. When it's cold out (10C and less) I start the bike with full choke and wait till the rpm gets to 4000 on its own then I bring it down to about 1500 RPM +- 100 and ride from there. As I ride I judge the warmth by watching the revs and feeling the responsiveness. If I stop at a light and see that the revs have climbed again, I back the choke off till they come back down to 1500 rpm. I give the engine a quick rev and if it hesitates i'll add back some choke because if it hesitates revving not under load it will for sure bog badly once you let the clutch out. After a few lights the engine is fine and chokes all off. You'll need to gauge this based on air temps as of course colder weather makes things worse and warmer weather shortens the process up more.
Very useful tips... Missed this part at RTI cuz of the CBR125s. Thanks tons!
Griffin
Well-known member
Maybe a quick exlpanation of how a choke works might help.
Yuo need three things for internal combustion: fuel, compression and spark. The fuel must be in the correct mixture to support combustion. If I recall correctly gasoline is explosive when between 7% and 14% mixture with air. This is what your carburettor does. It mixes the gasoline with air in a mixture that allows it to explode when it is compressed in the cylinder and ignited by the spark.
The choke overrides the set fuel/air mixture. Choking reduces the amount of air mixed with the gasoline to enrich the mixture which is needed for a colder operating temperature. The amount of choke you apply will vary the air reduction and therefore the fuel ratio in the mixture.
If you do not apply enough choke for a colder engine, it will not be able to fire. If you apply too much choke to a warmer engine, the mixture is too rich and it will not fire. It may flood.
If you are choking the engine, even partially, once it is warm you are reducing the efficiency of the engine. It's running too rich. It may stall when under load like pulling away quickly from a stop.
Fuel injection does all of this with microprocessors and sensors automatically.
Anywas, hopefully this is not too boring and is perhaps helfpul. And I'm not trying to be patronizing nor am I particularly knowledgeable about mechanical crap. So if you already know all this....
Yuo need three things for internal combustion: fuel, compression and spark. The fuel must be in the correct mixture to support combustion. If I recall correctly gasoline is explosive when between 7% and 14% mixture with air. This is what your carburettor does. It mixes the gasoline with air in a mixture that allows it to explode when it is compressed in the cylinder and ignited by the spark.
The choke overrides the set fuel/air mixture. Choking reduces the amount of air mixed with the gasoline to enrich the mixture which is needed for a colder operating temperature. The amount of choke you apply will vary the air reduction and therefore the fuel ratio in the mixture.
If you do not apply enough choke for a colder engine, it will not be able to fire. If you apply too much choke to a warmer engine, the mixture is too rich and it will not fire. It may flood.
If you are choking the engine, even partially, once it is warm you are reducing the efficiency of the engine. It's running too rich. It may stall when under load like pulling away quickly from a stop.
Fuel injection does all of this with microprocessors and sensors automatically.
Anywas, hopefully this is not too boring and is perhaps helfpul. And I'm not trying to be patronizing nor am I particularly knowledgeable about mechanical crap. So if you already know all this....
NealT
Well-known member
No problem, after a while you get used to this and the process is second nature. The added advantage is you get to know your bike and it's fuelling much better and you can diagnose issues on the move. Keep an eye on your idle speed, our bikes are supposed to idle at 1350 RPM. I find even 100 rpm less makes the bike feel boggy when moving from a dead stop, you wind up having to start with higher revs to compensate.
I kinda heard about the basic idea but your explanation is detailed and very easy to understand. Very useful knowledge to have. Much appreciated!
killerkeith
Well-known member
I feel bad for you. The advice given here has been all wrong. Everyone seemed to miss the part where you dropped the bike trying to exit your parking garage. Starting on a hill is very important to learn.
Clutch in
Foot on back brake.
A little throttle and slowly release the clutch.
Once you feel the bike move forward take your foot off the back brake.
Get a friend to spot and catch you incase you stall and can't balance the bike. Once you have MASTERED this...then find a parking lot.
Clutch in
Foot on back brake.
A little throttle and slowly release the clutch.
Once you feel the bike move forward take your foot off the back brake.
Get a friend to spot and catch you incase you stall and can't balance the bike. Once you have MASTERED this...then find a parking lot.
Griffin
Well-known member
LOL. All wrong? Hmm, okay then.
You do have a good point about how to start on a hill. You should also be able to start while holding the front brake until you start to move. Takes a little more coordination but allows you to have both feet on the ground when and if needed.
Warming up the bike before riding is not good. You should actually start riding as soon as possible..
"One of the more enduring automotive myths is that you have to let a vehicle idle to warm up for a while. This is the worst way you can get your motorcycle (or car) to the proper operating temperature. Your bike should be under a load (moving) to get it warmed up well, and also to extend its life.
There is zero harm to starting a cold engine and putting it under a LIGHT load right away. On a bike this means choke it, start it up, and then as soon as you can give it throttle without dying (usually just several seconds) ride away. This does not mean bash the hell out of it as soon as you're out of the driveway.
Close the choke (enrichener) as soon as you can. There are lots of good reasons for this, but just do it. You may have to turn the choke down in increments during the first couple minutes of your ride before the bike will run fine without the choke. This can often mean having it applied halfway for the first few minutes, but if the bike is in a good state of tune you shouldn't need more than a few minutes before you can turn it off for good. Just remember that it is a manual choke and you have to remember to shut it off."
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Warming_up_your_engine
Thank god we have been blessed with your presence. Please share your wisdom with us oh wise one!
killerkeith
Well-known member
Thank god we have been blessed with your presence. Please share your wisdom with us oh wise one!
Everyone one was telling her to find a parking lot. You can't really do that if you can't get up the ramp of your parking garage.
Here endth the lesson.
u need to give some throttle when you release your clutch in order not to stall the bike
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