The less dramatic version of that is use a thermal camera to check for poor connections or shorts inside the frame. Not that many people have access to a thermal camera. If there is a broken wire, this probably won't give you any idea.
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Charging voltage
- Thread starter timtune
- Start date
Upload vid to youtube and post the link.
It runs - sort of. Has some carb issues still to be sorted. Helmet? Buddy thought maybe I was afraid I'd wheelie it into the hedgerow.
https://youtu.be/smE0VkxpzsE
https://youtu.be/smE0VkxpzsE
Cool bike.
OP had a toggle switch in the neg line before it went to ground at a sketchy engine connection. Replaced that with a fresh line and only got 6.0v while the Squeeze was pretty much revving the shyte out of it.
After lunch, a doob and some home made hard cider I'll be in a mind to find the "ac generator" plug and start by checking for continuity there. Being retired is hard to take.....
After lunch, a doob and some home made hard cider I'll be in a mind to find the "ac generator" plug and start by checking for continuity there. Being retired is hard to take.....
There was a toggle switch to lift ground? That's a new level of buggery. Your voltage went down after it was fixed? Negative ground or positive?
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Best to test with an Ammeter and volt metere.
1) Test your battery first.
Using a voltmeter, check voltage. Below 4.25 and the battery is bad and should be replaced, fully charged reads ~6.3v, 20% charge is ~6v. If it's >4.25v and >6.25v, charge the battery. L
You can also test the specific gravity of the acid, it should read between 1.22-1.28 on a good battery. If there is >.05 difference between cells, the battery is bad, if the diff is less, charge the battery..
Electrical; Generating System; A.c. Generating Specifications - Honda CB125S Shop Manual [Page 57] has the factory test procedure.
On these old bikes I usually get rid of the selenium rectifier by replacing with a MOSFET 12v regulator from a dirtbike. If you want 12v electrics, just changing the rectifier, battery and bulbs to 12v types.
Attachments
Mad Mike
Well-known member
There's a clue in that... I'm guessing there is something draining power when the bike is off. You can pickup a new complete harness off EBAY for about $30. I usually go that route as 50 years is a long time to expect trouble free bike wiring.
The manual made it look like in order to acess the connection I needed to remove the rear engine side cover. Have to pull the muffler to get it off. Rather than separate the muffler and header I just pulled the foot peg/kick stand assembly AND surprise surprise the connection was NOT accessible from behind the side cover.
However this procedure did show why I had such bad exhaust leaks. No exhaust gaskets!! Who are these people and where are their parents!
However this procedure did show why I had such bad exhaust leaks. No exhaust gaskets!! Who are these people and where are their parents!
Managed to get to the AC generator lead and had continuity on all three coils. On to the next step. My bike shows a selenium rectifer (is the regulator built in?)
Is a check of the BOLD text done at the battery terminals with the multimeter set first for DC and AC? If I got 6V when checking in DC mode do I need to check for AC? (hoping not as I have the bike apart now)
Interestling I found this in the assortment of bits that came with this bike. I suspect I'm following in someone's foot steps.
@Mad Mike is the MOSFET regulator of which you speak? It has "6V" in red marker on one side. If so any idea on how to determine which leads go where?
Robbo
Well-known member
The bike never came with a voltage regulator…only the selenium rectifier.
Usually when the selenium rectifier fails, you get a constant low voltage like you are experiencing.
What’s on the backside of the regulator/rectifier? Any model name and numbers?
Unplug the white plug. Are there any letters next to the 4 prongs sticking out of the device?
And what battery did you end up buying, AGM ? Conventional ? Other ???
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Usually when the selenium rectifier fails, you get a constant low voltage like you are experiencing.
What’s on the backside of the regulator/rectifier? Any model name and numbers?
Unplug the white plug. Are there any letters next to the 4 prongs sticking out of the device?
And what battery did you end up buying, AGM ? Conventional ? Other ???
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
stator - yellow, white, pink
rectifier - yellow, green, pink, red/white
where you show "connecting ground" I have a green wire with and open side eye - that makes sense
where you show "connect the battery" I have another green wire - that seems wrong
where you show "signal winding" I have a red - I would think that's the battery?
where you show "lighting winding" I have yellow
rectifier - yellow, green, pink, red/white
where you show "connecting ground" I have a green wire with and open side eye - that makes sense
where you show "connect the battery" I have another green wire - that seems wrong
where you show "signal winding" I have a red - I would think that's the battery?
where you show "lighting winding" I have yellow
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