Charging voltage | GTAMotorcycle.com

Charging voltage

timtune

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I know 13.5 -14volts indicates a good charging system on a 12v. What's a good value for a 6volt system?
 
Knew you'd come through! Thanks.
 
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PO said it had charging issues. If (when) I don't see 7v then I'm off to test the continuity of the coils in the stator/rotor correct?
 
PO said it had charging issues. If (when) I don't see 7v then I'm off to test the continuity of the coils in the stator/rotor correct?
First check the stator for continuity, I'm assuming its 3-phase ?
If the battery is good and the stator is good that only leaves the regulator and rectifier.
If you're still getting low voltage when running its the regulator, if you're getting AC its the rectifier.
The only other thing it might be is a demagnetized rotor, but the likelihood of that is pretty slim.
The charging systems weren't great to begin with, don't expect miracles.
 
Checked the voltage. 6.14V was all it could do. Is that a pass?
 
Checked the voltage. 6.14V was all it could do. Is that a pass?
Was that trying to charge a dead battery at the time? I would like that a lot higher (7.2+). If the battery was really flat, maybe that is all she's got and it will get better. If the battery was charged, time to test the charging circuit.
 
Fresh battery. (6.3 V I think)
RPM? No tach just revving it up some. Not much change in voltage with change in RPM.
1968 Honda CD125

Frack. Pressed steel frame. The wiring/ electrics are well hidden.
 
Fresh battery. (6.3 V I think)
RPM? No tach just revving it up some. Not much change in voltage with change in RPM.
1968 Honda CD125

Frack. Pressed steel frame. The wiring/ electrics are well hidden.

I had a similar issue with the RD250 many years ago. Cleaned up the connections and swapped out the voltage regulator. No change. Turned out while reconnecting one set of wires, I had accidentally knocked apart another set.

Check and clean all of your connections. Put some dielectric grease on the connectors. Whether this solves the issue or not, at least you know they have all been done.


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I WANT to do all that (and more) but I'm not sure how to get to the wiring (easily ?). A little exploration is needed on my part.
 
I WANT to do all that (and more) but I'm not sure how to get to the wiring (easily ?). A little exploration is needed on my part.
As you obviously have access to both ends of the wires you could test them all for continuity and/or shorts. I wouldnt do that yet. Someone probably has a better procedure but I'd start at the beginning and check voltage from starter windings, then output of reg/rec. No point checking wiring in frame if stator is doing nothing.
 
You want to charge a lead/acid battery at 2.2 volts/cell, so 6.6 volts for a 3 cell six volt or 13.2 for a six cell 12 volt... as a minimum.
Fully charged six volt battery (at rest) should put out 6.35 volts and 12.7volt for a 12 volt, as a minimum

If you're looking for shorts, just hook the circuit up to a 110v/15a AC household plug.
Where the fire starts is where the problem WAS.
 
Yes I was getting 6.3 at rest but 6.14 running. Dang.
 
Yes I was getting 6.3 at rest but 6.14 running. Dang.

I'm not much of a mechanic; but I am a battery guy... If your charging system is weak, the load of the bike running will draw the battery voltage down; and slowly discharge the battery.

Check the connections, looking for corrosion... discoloration from hostspots or high resistance when you meter the wiring out.

Check the output of the generator - voltage; but also current, if you have an amp-clamp type meter (that does DC - not all do).

If the battery is fresh and fully charged, you shouldn't be pulling it down when the bike it on.
 

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