But will I die? (static vs dynamic balancing your tires) | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

But will I die? (static vs dynamic balancing your tires)

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I'm throwing in the towel. I don't know what I'm doing wrong trying to mount this tire myself... but I feel like if I keep going I'm going to do some damage to the bead (which I already have in a few spots).

I even bought a couple tools to use as extra hands to help. Nothing.

I'm sure it's definitely just me as I haven't done this before, and nothing wrong with the tire or rim. But just out of curiosity: Everything I've seen makes it look so easy... Are larger diameter tires easier to mount than 12"?.

Take a look at the bead at the bottom. Yikes...

WhatsApp Image 2022-12-15 at 1.33.54 AM.jpeg
 
adri said:
I'm throwing in the towel. I don't know what I'm doing wrong trying to mount this tire myself... but I feel like if I keep going I'm going to do some damage to the bead (which I already have in a few spots).

I even bought a couple tools to use as extra hands to help. Nothing.

I'm sure it's definitely just me as I haven't done this before, and nothing wrong with the tire or rim. But just out of curiosity: Everything I've seen makes it look so easy... Are larger diameter tires easier to mount than 12"?.

Take a look at the bead at the bottom. Yikes...

View attachment 58766
Click to expand...
You want the bead that is already inside to drop into the center recess of the rim until you have the rest or the bead over the rim lip. Once it's there, you can fill the tube to seat the bead. If it's tubeless, you can try a burst of air from a compressor, if that doesn't work - place a ratchet strap around the outside of the tire and crank it down to force the bead to the lip, then try compressed air.

So... to carry on just press the left side down so it's NOT sitting on the lip, you'll find the rest is easy. Squirt a little Windex around, it works great as a tire lube.
 
Mm has it. Small tires are harder than large tires. Need to get bead down into deepest part of rim to make some space. Lube is your friend.
 
adri said:
I'm throwing in the towel. I don't know what I'm doing wrong trying to mount this tire myself... but I feel like if I keep going I'm going to do some damage to the bead (which I already have in a few spots).

I even bought a couple tools to use as extra hands to help. Nothing.

I'm sure it's definitely just me as I haven't done this before, and nothing wrong with the tire or rim. But just out of curiosity: Everything I've seen makes it look so easy... Are larger diameter tires easier to mount than 12"?.

Take a look at the bead at the bottom. Yikes...

View attachment 58766
Click to expand...
I see the problem one side at a time the bead doesn't stretch you need to be sitting in the cavity as much as possible in your pictures you are holding both side on the lip not gonna go.

Sent from the future
 
I use a large C-clamp to squish the tire so that it's skinny, which helps it stay in the drop centre of the rim. In your picture, you need the part of the tire at the 9 o'clock position to be in the drop centre, not seated on the bead. This is by far the most important part of the mounting technique. Also, use more lube. I just use regular dish soap.
 
Yes, lots of lube. I use wd40.
 
adri said:
I'm throwing in the towel. I don't know what I'm doing wrong trying to mount this tire myself... but I feel like if I keep going I'm going to do some damage to the bead (which I already have in a few spots).

I even bought a couple tools to use as extra hands to help. Nothing.

I'm sure it's definitely just me as I haven't done this before, and nothing wrong with the tire or rim. But just out of curiosity: Everything I've seen makes it look so easy... Are larger diameter tires easier to mount than 12"?.

Take a look at the bead at the bottom. Yikes...

View attachment 58766
Click to expand...

"Where's the lube?" he/she/they said...

I have the same bead clamp and you should lube it where it touches the tire so the tire can slide into the drop center. Then you need to compress the left side of the tire to do the same. I also use these on a tough tire to keep more of it in the drop center:

1671118106763.png

With half of the tire under the lip of the rim and in the drop center, the other half can then be pulled over the opposite edge without damage. Also helps if everything is warm and not frozen. Of course, stiff sidewalls make it more difficult.
 
A couple of things come to mind reading this thread.
1) Lay your tires out in the sun on your driveway for an hour or two before mounting them and they will go on much easier. Sport bike tires will literally fall onto the wheel.
2) I use to go down to the AMA superbike races every year between 2000-2010. Dunlop would set up a big tent and provide tires, mount and balance them statically on a very basic stand with stick on weights for almost every rider.Those bikes were hitting 275 KMH all on statically balanced tires without any issues.
3) NoMar makes a really nice tire changer as well as balancers, weights, lube etc. I had their “Classic Tire Changer”. It worked beautifully and will last a lifetime, you can even do small car tires on it. Definitely worth the investment if your into racing or track days. Lots of stuff on YouTube about them. I met the guy that makes them at Mid Ohio. Unfortunately I sold mine when I cut back on my riding and needed the space back in my garage. Wish I still had it, can’t say enough about how well that thing worked. Sport bike tires were an absolute breeze, larger, stiff cruiser tires were a challenge but who rides cruisers anyway.
 
adri said:
I'm throwing in the towel. I don't know what I'm doing wrong trying to mount this tire myself... but I feel like if I keep going I'm going to do some damage to the bead (which I already have in a few spots).

I even bought a couple tools to use as extra hands to help. Nothing.

I'm sure it's definitely just me as I haven't done this before, and nothing wrong with the tire or rim. But just out of curiosity: Everything I've seen makes it look so easy... Are larger diameter tires easier to mount than 12"?.

Take a look at the bead at the bottom. Yikes...

View attachment 58766
Click to expand...
All good advice here, and not to echo the others... one piece of advice; one of us should be relatively local to you... get some hands on help the first time.

Will work for beer.



Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
I can send one of my kids over if you need some muscle this time
IMG_7066small.jpg
 
So the manufacturer has said that they sell a lot of rims in South East Asia where they say the roads are much worse than here.

Apparently it's because I had the tire set to 29 psi (factory spec) rather than 32 psi, which is the owner's manual spec.

Keep in mind, they don't include any literature saying this with the rims... and I really can't see 3 psi making a killer difference.

Is there any chance I weakened the rims when I was trying to mount the tires with the spoons, or... am I just buying into what their saying a little too much?
 
adri said:
Apparently it's because I had the tire set to 29 psi (factory spec) rather than 32 psi, which is the owner's manual spec.
Click to expand...
I'm no engineer, but that sounds like ******** to me
 
Anybody have the means to test the failed rim to see if it's forged vs cast, or know how much that might cost and where one might do that?
 
adri said:
Anybody have the means to test the failed rim to see if it's forged vs cast, or know how much that might cost and where one might do that?
Click to expand...
Asking for a quote at a wheel repair place might get you your answers. They see a ton of wheels at all levels of quality.

If the wheel was actually cracked open so you could see the grain structure, identifying cast or forged is pretty easy. I cant tell without the crack.

Wheel repair company may even be happy to be part of a video and spread some knowledge.
 
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Relax said:
You'll know when you set them to 32 PSI and ride the same road again.
Click to expand...

Also post the video and:

Likes-Meme.jpg
 
GreyGhost said:
Asking for a quote at a wheel repair place might get you your answers. They see a ton of wheels at all levels of quality.

If the wheel was actually cracked open so you could see the grain structure, identifying cast or forged is pretty easy. I cant tell without the crack.

Wheel repair company may even be happy to be part of a video and spread some knowledge.
Click to expand...

Got a vice or a press strong enough to crack this sucker open? It's just a decoration piece at this point lol
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