Trials
Well-known member
understandable
Cold would be safe to apply but your working time will be very short.
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Broken down pipe stuck
- Thread starter Cbr125guy
- Start date
Cold would be safe to apply but your working time will be very short.
Trials
Well-known member
Component cooler is CO2 in a can, like compressed air. Makes intense cold without the water residue. Kinda like dry ice.
Exercise plenty of persistence and patience, it's rust that is making it super tight and the part you want removed is harder then the barrel that you don't want to damage. When you are tapping it use a drift or nail set so you don't need to hit the part directly with the hammer and you can direct the blows more effectively.
Exercise plenty of persistence and patience, it's rust that is making it super tight and the part you want removed is harder then the barrel that you don't want to damage. When you are tapping it use a drift or nail set so you don't need to hit the part directly with the hammer and you can direct the blows more effectively.
mistersouthpaw
Well-known member
Pb blaster for rusty s*** always works wonders
I don't mean torching it till its blistering hot.
Just enough to loosen up the 2 parts when you knock it with a hammer.
J_F
Guest
I think what you're looking at there is the donut on the pipe
the clamp pushes the donut into the exhaust port on the head
the pipe has broken off from the donut and is stuck there
try tapping only on the donut - the rusty party
don't tap it in, tap on the top, then the bottom
and right and left, don't need to wail on it
it will work free eventually
the clamp pushes the donut into the exhaust port on the head
the pipe has broken off from the donut and is stuck there
try tapping only on the donut - the rusty party
don't tap it in, tap on the top, then the bottom
and right and left, don't need to wail on it
it will work free eventually
Trials
Well-known member
:/ I dreamed about this last night, what you need to do is to attempt to cut a thread on the inside of that stuck collar with a big tap (not the water kind the kind that cuts threads into steel) the part will either spin free before you can successfully cut a thread in it, or you will actually cut a thread in it and now you have a way to pull or wiggle it out of there using a big bolt or length of threaded pipe
... pipe threads are tapered and that might be very helpful if it is the right size, how big is the hole?
... pipe threads are tapered and that might be very helpful if it is the right size, how big is the hole?
Frankly, I can't really tell what part has to be removed. Since you're going to get a new pipe I'd just wait until you have it in hand and then you should be able to see how it is made and it should be evident what has to be removed. In the interim just stuff a clean rag in the port and soak the whole area with Liquid Wrench or something similar and repeat a few times.
You are not tapping a thread in that! The exhaust port of the engine is right there. There is nowhere for the tapping tool to go.
I am on board with soaking it with penetrating oil. I am on board with tapping it with a hammer - use a long flat screwdriver to tap it from the side, alternately. Don't sledgehammer it. You may also be able to use a long flat screwdriver to lever it off if you can get in behind the flange on the inside of the pipe. Heat from a propane torch may help.
I am on board with soaking it with penetrating oil. I am on board with tapping it with a hammer - use a long flat screwdriver to tap it from the side, alternately. Don't sledgehammer it. You may also be able to use a long flat screwdriver to lever it off if you can get in behind the flange on the inside of the pipe. Heat from a propane torch may help.
I would use heat as a last resort. Especially after soaking it in penetrating oil, don't ask how I know, lol.
To me, it looks like the pipe rotted and broke leaving the tip of the pipe and flange stuck there. I'm not sure of the clearance there but after a good soak and a few taps from a hammer if you could somehow leverage a puller onto the flange and try that. Otherwise, a pry bar and small lifts on alternating sides until it pops out.
Like most others have said, soak it a few times and don't mess with it if you aren't sure what has to come off until you have the new one to look at and compare.
To me, it looks like the pipe rotted and broke leaving the tip of the pipe and flange stuck there. I'm not sure of the clearance there but after a good soak and a few taps from a hammer if you could somehow leverage a puller onto the flange and try that. Otherwise, a pry bar and small lifts on alternating sides until it pops out.
Like most others have said, soak it a few times and don't mess with it if you aren't sure what has to come off until you have the new one to look at and compare.
J_F
Guest
^ this is a good suggestion
the new pipe will show you what is left stuck in there
and where you need to tap it to break free
OP, ignore the suggestion of a pipe tap
(not that I think it's likely you have a one inch or greater pipe tap around)
they are tapered and will force the piece of pipe to expand - this will not help
and if you reef it in there, there's a possibility of breaking the aluminum exhaust port
the new pipe will show you what is left stuck in there
and where you need to tap it to break free
OP, ignore the suggestion of a pipe tap
(not that I think it's likely you have a one inch or greater pipe tap around)
they are tapered and will force the piece of pipe to expand - this will not help
and if you reef it in there, there's a possibility of breaking the aluminum exhaust port
I got it off penetrating oil did the job! Came off pretty loose after I let it sit. I ended up getting a practically brand new full TYGA performance system for $200 only had to drive 2 hours but I say it was worth it. It sounds like a totally different bike so nice!
Attachments
Good job, glad it worked out.
Wondering if the carb needs to be rejetted with the straight pipe now?
Wondering if the carb needs to be rejetted with the straight pipe now?
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