https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TS9w565RGO8
enough said lol, bai!
enough said lol, bai!
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Bringing the Bike to a Stop
- Thread starter FluX
- Start date
From the video publisher:
"All upshifts are done by quickly rolling off throttle while simultaneously shifting adding pressure to the shift lever with my foot. It does no harm to the transmission or clutch. It's a technique that I use on the track and rarely use it on the street at street speeds."
... enough said, bai
Track riding = track
Street riding = street
If that's the case I'm afraid you did not get the full value of the course. In any case, once you've gotten proficient with your braking and downshifting independently, find a large parking lot and practice active downshifting from third to second several car lengths in advance of an upcoming stop. Your goal should be to develop timing; completely engage the clutch after the downshift to take advantage of engine braking followed almost immediately by application of the brakes (and a passive downshift from second to first). Once you're comfortable here, you can gradually blend the actions together. The downshift from second to first will be the most difficult to smooth out, but once you've mastered it you should be fine.
Good luck!
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Downshifting while braking is an advanced skill and needs some practice to co-ordinate all your limbs.
The important thing is to use consistent pressure on the brake lever with the 2nd and 3rd fingers of your right hand while you blip the throttle with wrist (4th and 5th fingers on the throttle). Allow the 2nd and 3rd fingers to slide backward over the top of the brake lever slightly as you blip the throttle.
To do this, your brake lever must be adjusted such that the reach is close enough to operate the brake with just your 2nd and 3rd fingers, but no so close that you can't fully squeeze the brake lever (because your 4th and 5th fingers are in the way)
this video seems quite informative:
[video=youtube_share;LrbZJbXwgrY]http://youtu.be/LrbZJbXwgrY?t=1m50s[/video]
The important thing is to use consistent pressure on the brake lever with the 2nd and 3rd fingers of your right hand while you blip the throttle with wrist (4th and 5th fingers on the throttle). Allow the 2nd and 3rd fingers to slide backward over the top of the brake lever slightly as you blip the throttle.
To do this, your brake lever must be adjusted such that the reach is close enough to operate the brake with just your 2nd and 3rd fingers, but no so close that you can't fully squeeze the brake lever (because your 4th and 5th fingers are in the way)
this video seems quite informative:
[video=youtube_share;LrbZJbXwgrY]http://youtu.be/LrbZJbXwgrY?t=1m50s[/video]
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it's easier on the motor and clutch, makes shifting smoother, and i find it more fun.
thanks for addressing the upshifting.
shows that everytime the rider was using the clutch was for downshift not upshift.
goodjob lol
Just tossing this in there in case it's relevant, since you mentioned the rear brake.
I notice alot of bikes with the rear brake pedal set waaay too high.
When the time comes for an emergency stop, they end up standing on the rear brake pedal instead of the foot peg.
Make sure it's properly adjusted for you, many people buy a bike and never touch the adjustment.
I notice alot of bikes with the rear brake pedal set waaay too high.
When the time comes for an emergency stop, they end up standing on the rear brake pedal instead of the foot peg.
Make sure it's properly adjusted for you, many people buy a bike and never touch the adjustment.
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I rev match most of the time on all my vehicles. Way smoother. I've seen people say engine braking at all has no place on the street.
That said I don't bother with any heel-toe or anything fancy like that except in my 944 because it's really easy on that car for some reason (must be pedal position). Easier on my WRX than on my 900 but still difficult enough that I don't bother.
You can practice rev matching separately too. Get up to speed and then start slowing down by closing the throttle. Allow your bike to coast for a second or two to scrub some speed. Next, pull in the clutch, kick down, blip the throttle and then release the clutch. Do this for each downshift but make sure you're going real slow when you go into 1st. Practice doing this smoothly and when you feel ready, add the front brake to the mix. I'm still struggling to perfect this myself.
Oh and you might want to practice in a parking lot or empty road but, in any case, give yourself plenty of lead time.
Oh and you might want to practice in a parking lot or empty road but, in any case, give yourself plenty of lead time.
In order to help slow you down without being thrown forward because you dump the clutch, or causing excessive wear because you let the clutch out incredibly slowly. Like I said previously, my owners manual specifically says you need to apply throttle when downshifting to prevent excessive wear.
@Acadian: Is this what you're talking about? http://www.standardshift.com/faq/index.php?n=Standardshift.TermsAndDefinitions#toc11 I've never heard active vs. passive before, and this is about the only thing I can find on the subject.
FWIW, I did my course at Humber and they didn't cover much of anything either. They taught us that if you pull in the clutch and press down on the shift lever, you'll go down a gear - and that was the full extent of their explanation.
I also managed to find this tutorial. Do you guys generally use those 2 fingers?
So say when coming to a stop is it not like a manual car?
Sorry noob here... Example...
When driving 60km/hr say in fourth gear in car and you come to a red light. Push in clutch and then never give it gas, just switch to third, then second, then first, then complete stop. Once light turn green you are in first and give it gas and go.... Is a bike not like this? Thanks
Sorry noob here... Example...
When driving 60km/hr say in fourth gear in car and you come to a red light. Push in clutch and then never give it gas, just switch to third, then second, then first, then complete stop. Once light turn green you are in first and give it gas and go.... Is a bike not like this? Thanks
It is, but the technique being described here is similar to double-clutching in a car. Except you only use the clutch once per downshift instead of twice as in double-clutching.
All you people, who have doubts regarding downshifting/rev-matching/breaking&shifting etc., should watch Twist of the Wrsit II by Keith Code, as some part of the movie is posted above. You will learn as much as you've learnt at the safety course, if not more..
Aside from the FUN factor, I think it's good to experiment with it. I once had to ride for 600+kms without a clutch... If I was never experimental, I wouldn't dare to make that trip.
Aside from the FUN factor
, I think it's good to experiment with it. I once had to ride for 600+kms without a clutch... If I was never experimental, I wouldn't dare to make that trip.Matching engine speed (RPM) with road speed (KPH) makes for a smoother ride and is easier on the rider/driver and whatever machine he/she is riding/driving. Who cares if you cannot yet blip the throttle while down-shifting for a stop. Continue to use your front brake on dry, clean pavement and your transmission as best you can. Use the back brake whenever you have to. In time you will be comfortable enough to introduce the 3rd action of working the throttle to increase rpm to the point of matching where it is going to be when you drop a gear. Using your engine as part of the braking mechanism is a must - doesn't matter if its 22 wheels and 80,000 lbs of trailer or a 350 lb machine with a rider. And the comment on Keith Code is bang on. I've been riding for decades - street and dirt - and I still find some of it interesting!
+1!!
RonnieRev
Well-known member
I guess I worded that incorrectly and you missed my point , (I know how to up shift/down shift a bike, I have been riding for approx 40 years)
What I meant was "is it necessary to approach a stop light like your coming into turn 3 at mosport"
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