What is the best aftermarket quickshifter?
Bazzaz, dynojet, HM, annitori etc
Bazzaz, dynojet, HM, annitori etc
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Best Quickshifter
- Thread starter SUZUKIII
- Start date
Which bike? Do you have any other related aftermarket parts (eg Power commander, etc).
I used Healtech quickshifters on my bikes because, when I bought them, they were one of very few that offered adjustable delay time based on RPM. The Healtech can be configured over Bluetooth with a phone app. Nice smooth shifts from 5,000 RPM and up.
I haven't looked recently but I wouldn't doubt that many offer these features now.
I haven't looked recently but I wouldn't doubt that many offer these features now.
Thank you for your knowledgeable and helpful reply.
I was thinking of getting one that didn't work until I read your advice and now my life has been changed. Apparently getting one that works is the key.
I was thinking of getting one that didn't work until I read your advice and now my life has been changed. Apparently getting one that works is the key.
Gsxr 750, bazzaz zfi with custom tune, full exhaust
You and lowrider should write a book with your incredible amount of knowledge.
i heard good things about Healtech.
The bimmer has up/down (with auto blipper) and i don't care if i can do 180km in 1st gear, it's a hoot.
For upshifts I find it extremely smooth at any rpm as long as you keep adding the revs, if you`re holding a steady throttle it fights you a bit.
The bimmer has up/down (with auto blipper) and i don't care if i can do 180km in 1st gear, it's a hoot.
For upshifts I find it extremely smooth at any rpm as long as you keep adding the revs, if you`re holding a steady throttle it fights you a bit.
Since you already have a Bazzaz unit installed on the bike, the sensible thing to do is install a Bazzaz quickshifter sensor and make use of what you already have, rather than installing yet another separate electrical gizmo and box and wiring harness.
I have no experience with those. I have a PowerCommander 3 quick-shifter on one bike that is street ridden and a PC5 quick-shifter on another bike that is strictly a race bike.
On the PC5, I had an issue with it shortly after installation - randomly false-triggering leading to the engine cutting out when it shouldn't. With the PowerCommander shifters, the wires to the PC module have plain ordinary bare ends that are inserted into small holes in the PC module and then tightened in place with a set screw. This is a weak spot for water intrusion, and I'm pretty sure that's what caused the issue that I had. I've since put some electrical tape on these connection points with the hope of reducing water intrusion. It has worked fine since.
The PC3 works fine on the track where you positively shift without the clutch at revs that are firmly beyond the minimum-RPM setpoint and always at wide-open throttle, but not on the street, where that's not necessarily the case. I always use the clutch when street-riding to cushion gear changes, and if you try to do that, the quick-shifter cuts ignition in addition, leading to an awful lurch. I ended up installing a microswitch on the actuation lever for the clutch which disables the quick-shifter switch if I am pulling in the clutch lever. That works well 99% of the time ... quick-shift when I'm not using the clutch, but not when I am, with screw-ups only when I do something half-hearted.
I do not know if the PC5 will have that fault, because that one is installed on my race bike, and only ever sees full-throttle upshifts at high revs.
And I have NO idea how the Bazzaz would behave.
The OEM quick-shifters generally work well, because they are integrated into the bike's electronics which have sensors for all sorts of things including whether you are using the clutch.
I have no experience with those. I have a PowerCommander 3 quick-shifter on one bike that is street ridden and a PC5 quick-shifter on another bike that is strictly a race bike.
On the PC5, I had an issue with it shortly after installation - randomly false-triggering leading to the engine cutting out when it shouldn't. With the PowerCommander shifters, the wires to the PC module have plain ordinary bare ends that are inserted into small holes in the PC module and then tightened in place with a set screw. This is a weak spot for water intrusion, and I'm pretty sure that's what caused the issue that I had. I've since put some electrical tape on these connection points with the hope of reducing water intrusion. It has worked fine since.
The PC3 works fine on the track where you positively shift without the clutch at revs that are firmly beyond the minimum-RPM setpoint and always at wide-open throttle, but not on the street, where that's not necessarily the case. I always use the clutch when street-riding to cushion gear changes, and if you try to do that, the quick-shifter cuts ignition in addition, leading to an awful lurch. I ended up installing a microswitch on the actuation lever for the clutch which disables the quick-shifter switch if I am pulling in the clutch lever. That works well 99% of the time ... quick-shift when I'm not using the clutch, but not when I am, with screw-ups only when I do something half-hearted.
I do not know if the PC5 will have that fault, because that one is installed on my race bike, and only ever sees full-throttle upshifts at high revs.
And I have NO idea how the Bazzaz would behave.
The OEM quick-shifters generally work well, because they are integrated into the bike's electronics which have sensors for all sorts of things including whether you are using the clutch.
RobVN
Well-known member
I would agree with Brian. If you have a system on your bike that will accept a quick shifter use it. All these aftermarket electronics can lead to more things that can fail on you and can make it harder to diagnose. I have an annitori and it has worked well. I replaced my original annitori which was made by H&M when they originally started. Another good one to look at. I ended up with a failure where the bike would cut out at higher RPM. Turned out there was a bad connection in the piggyback harness. Annitori replaced it but it gave me alot of grief in the meantime. Hence me saying the less add on electronics the better.
Trials
Well-known member
I bet it reduces your average lap times by at least 1/100th of a second and reduces your daily commute time by zero,
but everybody will be impressed your bike has a quick shifter, after you point it out.
On reading some quick shifter reviews (even the good ones) I read of people inadvertently finding neutral when speed shifting from first to second,
and the recommended fix to that issue was to STOMP it into second :/ which imho sounds like a great way to bend shifter forks ymmv.
but everybody will be impressed your bike has a quick shifter, after you point it out.
On reading some quick shifter reviews (even the good ones) I read of people inadvertently finding neutral when speed shifting from first to second,
and the recommended fix to that issue was to STOMP it into second :/ which imho sounds like a great way to bend shifter forks ymmv.
The original poster has never stated whether this was a street or road-course or dragstrip application.
It is not normal to use 1st gear on a road-course except right at the start. It should only see one quick-shift 1st-to-2nd shift per race. If it's a track-day bike, not even that - just clutch the 1-to-2 shift when going out pit lane. (I do that on warm-up laps.)
In racing conditions ... if everyone else has it then you need to have it, too, otherwise ... you lose.
It is not normal to use 1st gear on a road-course except right at the start. It should only see one quick-shift 1st-to-2nd shift per race. If it's a track-day bike, not even that - just clutch the 1-to-2 shift when going out pit lane. (I do that on warm-up laps.)
In racing conditions ... if everyone else has it then you need to have it, too, otherwise ... you lose.
you need second?
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