When I was a new rider I had a tendency to overuse the rear brake due to years of built-in cager muscle memory (same for mashing the shifter pedal when I'm trying to clutch in), and it's also far easier to apply lot of force through your leg. I "fixed" myself by consciously trying to apply front brake before rear for awhile until new muscle memory is formed.
"Back brake only, you'll crash if you use your front brake!"
- Thread starter PrivatePilot
- Start date
Dirty Frank
Well-known member
The bulk of my street riding is on pitch happy super sports and in good traction conditions i use a conscious effort for all front brake with spaced downshifts as the rear brake is very touchy with the weight transfer it is lock up prone. I find it hard to control the reflex of releasing pressure on both brakes when the rear locks up with this increasing braking distance significantly.
Word diarrhea but hopefully I'm getting the point across.
Totally void for modern rides with good working antilock tho.
Word diarrhea but hopefully I'm getting the point across.
Totally void for modern rides with good working antilock tho.
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It MIGHT be a single cylinder thing primarily. My little Husky 250 requires an endless dance to cause the little green light on the dash to illuminate, and as I recall my 650 Honda, and 530 KTM were just as reluctant. My 300 2 stroke KTM was also a challenge, but it didn't mind starting off from idle in 3rd gear if necessary.
Dirty Frank
Well-known member
Unnecessary post.
BigEvilDoer
Well-known member
Because you have just taken away pretty every evasive maneuver you can make when stopped. Someone coming up behind you too busy texting to see you? Well, now you can’t move unless you jump off your bike to get away. Plain and simple.
BigEvilDoer
Well-known member
My last trip to the Dragon Pre-Covid had exactly the same thing.
A couple days before we arrived, a cruiser rider who switched to a ZX14 had an interview with God because of the rear brake fixation.
From what the trooper told me, guy was on his first week of the ZX14. His buddies said he accelerated quickly after a hairpin turn. Huge rear skid directly into a tree.
Front brake would have saved his life. But the “FRONT BRAKE IS WORSE THAN CLIBBINS!” Mentality kicked it.
BigEvilDoer
Well-known member
This is the way.
My bike (KTM RC8r) has a heavy freaking clutch, even though it’s hydraulic. I don’t have an issue holding the lever in for 3-4 minutes at a time, even with shorty levers.
TK4
Well-known member
Ditto - can we get back to 'what oil/chain lube/tires' should I use ?
AFJ
Well-known member
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Dirty Frank
Well-known member
Synthetic oil is superior to conventional oil.....
My clutch slipped with synthetic on the Weestrom.
What brand, weight and type of synth did you use?
If it's not a motorcycle-specific oil, this could happen.
Automotive engine oil has friction modifiers in it which will cause your clutch to slip. Motorcycle-specific oils don't have these additives in them.
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I had 3 Hondas with their non ABS linked braking system in the early 2000’s (2 VFR800’s and an ST1300) and they worked flawlessly. I rode those bikes very aggressively, aggressive enough to get a stunt driving charge in my 50’s. Applying the front brake also activated the rear brake ever so slightly, just enough to stop the front end from compressing too much. The only downside was that there were like 12 points to bleed the system when changing brake fluid.
Ime, you're right. If you see friction modifiers on the bottle, the wet clutch won't be happy. Dino oil or synthetic both work fine for me (as long as no friction modifiers).
Front brake activating the rears a little works good on every linked bike I’ve owned.
But pushing the rear brake pedal expecting much meaningful activation of the front brakes, not so much.
On the oil front, Rotella T6 all around here. Bikes love it. Wet clutch friendly. Extra zddp which the small engine bits like. Win win.
Anyhow, that’s another thread.
Anyhow, that’s another thread.
