Anyone here a cyclist? | Page 16 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Anyone here a cyclist?

Thanks for all the info folks.

I have a pair of the padded shorts which I will wear. I won't ride the bicycle outside much because I'd rather be running or motorcycle riding, so this is more to keep a good cardio base. I do have a couple of ShamWows too so there's that.

I have not had the bike properly fitted, which I can get my wife to assist with since she knows more than me about this stuff or just wait til the shops open up for these again.

Seat time it is...
 
I'm guessing none of y'all had cycling shorts with a real chamois, and the ritual of napping it once it dried after washing them.
 
Expecting this layoff to take a while I got some gravel kings 700x42. They should be fun if I can stuff them in the jake the snake frame.
 
Expecting this layoff to take a while I got some gravel kings 700x42. They should be fun if I can stuff them in the jake the snake frame.
Might be a tight fit, let us know how it works out... it will be great if they fit.

I am still riding outside, short local route with lots of hills, proper distancing from everyone. I have purposely stuck to my fixed gear (in flip-flop freewheel mode) and mountain bike as they have wider tires and slacker geometry than my dedicated road bike (TCR), more stable and they deal with rough pavement better = much less likely to crash.

I am building an ugly and awful vintage CCM Grand Tourismo frame as a beater/antitheft/commuter/gravel bike but too many missing odds and ends to get it done right now. Too bad, as it would be the perfect ride right now... Lots of space in that frame and fork, I bet I could even run some smaller 29er tires on 700c rims (was originally a 27" steel rim frame).
 
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The chain stays are 55mm apart. Right now I have the 32s and they measure exactly 32. I hope with the 13mm to spare the 42s will be fine.

I scored a headset press, bb press, crown race press and a truing stand for $150. If anyone needs them they are welcomed to borrow them.
 
Picked up a pair of Mavic Aksium Race wheels today COVID social distance shopping on Kijiji for $50, other than some dirt and minor storage nicks they look like they may have never need ridden. Entry level and not exactly what I was looking for (or "need") but I have a couple of builds waiting in the wings, one might get these...

I have been looking for a 10 "spline" Shimano freehub to convert an ugly six speed rear to 10 speed (with a re-dish) for my city beater/gravel project.... might as well get an entire set of rims at this price.

Edit, the guy was selling them because he bought them by mistake as his bike is seven speed and the freehub was too wide to use with his cassette, so he bought some other rims, I almost said spacer.... then I shut-up and gave him the money...
 
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I have been looking for a 10 "spline" Shimano freehub to convert an ugly six speed rear to 10 speed (with a re-dish) for my city beater/gravel project

Probably 126mm. Would have likely been looking at a longer axle and spacers as well.
 
Probably 126mm. Would have likely been looking at a longer axle and spacers as well.

The six speed rear was actually 130mm in my case, technically the freehub on this old wheel was seven speed with spacers for the six speed cassette, which was still odd to be 130mm but that is what it measures at. If I can find a 8/9/10 speed freehub I will need to re-dish though.

Going in a different steel frame that will need to be cold set...
 
6-7 will work re-spacing the axle. Going to 8+ I think you're going to run out of axle on the non drive side once you space the drive side out with enough clearance between the chain and the dropout. Probably zero to negative drive side dish issues, as well. I've never bothered to try it on 130. I'm just trying to work it out in my head. What I'm seeing doesn't look good.
 
Although 6 speed (on a 7 speed freehub body HG20 hub), the wheel actually came from a 130mm spaced frame (all noted above) and is already 130mm spaced.... Axle length is the correct 141mm (but regardless I have lots of spares in different lengths). It had some gratuitous spacing on the drive side, there is a distinct possibility that I may only need to adjust the spacers on this side (due to new bearing location) and not have to re-dish much at all, if I do it will be 2 to 3 mm move for this specific wheel (see points below).

The only problem for me is finding a dirt, dirt, dirt cheap Shimano 8/9/10 speed freehub body (or even a cheap 36 hole hub and I will just rebuild the wheel around that hub....). It is an anti theft beater, the goal is min spending in the end so I am looking for very cheap parts... For personal reasons (they came from my brother's 80s Japanese Bianchi) I would like to re-purpose these rims on this build but finding the freehub or hub seems to be a PITA (at my price point...). I would also like low profile rims to make it look older (in line with the period of the frame below) and crappy... I may end up using the Aksiums for now but that sort of defeats the purpose IMO.

It is going into a different frame (really nasty looking old gaspipe CCM) that will need to be cold set to reach 130mm ( I also need to add braze-ons as it has none, I have them and the brazing gear...) but I am keeping an eye out for a different better ugly old steel frame (maybe 80s instead of 60/70s).

Regardless, for academic purposes....
  • A 126 mm seven speed wheel (not exactly mine above as it started as 130 mm) original centre is 63 mm....
  • The new spacing after the change is of course the standard (8/9/10....) road 130mm, new centre will be 65 mm.
  • The 8/9/10 speed cassette plus cassette spacers where required is roughly 5 mm wider than the seven speed (~32 mm to ~37 mm), so assuming the same brand like to like freehub is roughly the same amount wider (5 mm). Forget 11 speed+
  • We need to add 5 mm "spacing" (not spacers but distance) to the drive side (ds) for the new wider freehub (but that results in 131 mm width) so we will also need to remove 1 mm from the non drive side/nds to get back to 130 mm total.
  • The centre of the rim (hoop) is now sitting at 62 mm on the nds and 68 mm on the ds.
  • The centre needs to be moved 3 mm towards the ds to get to 65/65 mm.
Total change in dish is 3 mm.

Other option is to increase the spacing to MTB 135 mm (or as it is your steel bike whatever fits your non-standard fancy). As an example adding a 5 mm spacer to the nds results in 67/68, we only need to change the dish 1/2 mm (or just go for a beer and forget about a half mm between friends...). Requires a longer axle and the correct frame spacing if possible (depends on starting point)....

Spacing out to a non-standard 136 mm (by adding 6 mm to the nds) requires no change in dish at all...

Some references from the late Sheldon Brown:
 
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I have an SRAM XG-1195 cassette on my MTB. For some reason it just won't go down from 10 to 9. It goes up no problem. Everything else works perfectly up and down. Is the 10th cog toast?
 
I have an SRAM XG-1195 cassette on my MTB. For some reason it just won't go down from 10 to 9. It goes up no problem. Everything else works perfectly up and down. Is the 10th cog toast?
I'm assuming if you drop two, it's a rough shift but it works? You just cant drop one for that particular gear in the middle of the cassette? Weird.
 
2 down is a smooth shift like any other.
Isnt the problem more likely in the ratchet than the cog? Can you give the derailleur enough slack that your indexing is off by one? That should confirm whether the problem follows the cog or shifter.
 
I'm assuming if you drop two, it's a rough shift but it works? You just cant drop one for that particular gear in the middle of the cassette? Weird.

Cable stretch. Turn the adjuster out one-two clicks and try it.
 
Isnt the problem more likely in the ratchet than the cog? Can you give the derailleur enough slack that your indexing is off by one? That should confirm whether the problem follows the cog or shifter.

What is the ratchet? Do you mean the shifter or the derailleur? Good idea anyways. It would tell me if the shifter had an issue.
Cable stretch. Turn the adjuster out one-two clicks and try it.
If I adjust the cable enough got 10 to 9 to work everything else is thrown off.
 

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