You can even use repurposed old inner tubes for the straps!
Last edited:
|
|
|
Anyone here a cyclist?
- Thread starter MaksTO
- Start date
You can even use repurposed old inner tubes for the straps!
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I can always toss it on my motorcycle stand.
Bicycles are remarkably simple machines, I can’t think of a single repair that that taken more than a few minutes. I don’t enjoy tinkering with them so I approach repair and maint like business. My hardcore biking neighbour would spend an entire afternoon changing chainrings and enjoy every minute. By the time he adjusts his bike stand I’m done.
daught
Well-known member
Lol check out a modern MTB fork. Far from simple.
I don't like my fork since the last time I rebuilt it. I only had a small syringe and I think I got the count wrong. It doesn't enough me enough yet to tear it apart again. On a related note, have fork manufacturers not learned that reducing the BOM is a great idea? Every bloody o-ring in that thing is different. I think they could have reduced the part count by half.
mmmm. I may build a Rohloff bike at some point. So cool. Maybe with a lynskey helix gravel frame when they are available. I'm not sure I can bring myself to spend so much on bike art though.
Yeah, I was looking at pics of a custom ti bike with rohloff and belt drive. Guy was in for 7400 USD and they werent finished yet.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
No rocket science in the ones I've rebuilt. Yanking my RockShox took a couple of minutes, a full rebuild less than an hour -- about 1/2 that was cleaning. Work done on a bench so the bike stand wouldn't have saved me time or effort.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
That was my first bike too. A CCM Mustang with a banana seat and crossbar mounted Sturmey Archer stick shifter. That was complicated tech!
(not my actual bike)
daught
Well-known member
Unless you screwed up the volume by a considerable factor, oil viscosity is probably more important. Did you use the right oil? I hate paying for specialized oil so I use a mix of transmission oil, light engine oil, and gear oil that very closely resembles specs. Obviously it doesn't always work out. Dollar stores have big "turkey flavor injection" syringes in the cooking aisle. Cheap and great for oil filling, tubeless sealant, and brake venting.
Here's a cool tip I found lately. If you have contaminated brake pads you can bake them at 400F to restore their performance. Works pretty well.
daught
Well-known member
Do you know if Shimano makes single sided pedals without that platform? Basically single sided m520. They would be a huge improvement for avoiding random pedal strikes on roots. I don't want a platform because they can hook on a pedal strike.
Couldnt you put a skid plate (probably a cleat with epoxy to smooth it) in the bottom of a 520 and run tension to max?
You need some weight on the bottom of single sided pedals to keep the correct side up (or the platform to make it easy to feel the orientation).
The platform on my new pedals is very tight to the bottom of my shoe, I doubt anything could get in there large enough to be of any concern.
I have never seen a Shimano single sided spd pedal without a platform of some sort but if you really need single sided you can always remove the clip from one side of a mtb spd pedal... then it will always be clip down when you try to clip in...
Last edited:
daught
Well-known member
A skid plate would not increase clearance. I have a set of a530 which are similar to the a520 but the reverse is a pedal. When using the SPD the pedal points down and tenaciously hooks. Good to hear the a520 cage is close to the shoe.
I looked at the m520 and it looks like I can remove a side. Perfect. I don't think it will be that hard dealing with the pedal upside down. I rarely unclip anyways.
I looked at the m520 and it looks like I can remove a side. Perfect. I don't think it will be that hard dealing with the pedal upside down. I rarely unclip anyways.
On a non-platform SPD (any brand) it would be pretty easy to remove the clip from one side but I don't really think you need to. I quickly measured one of mine and the clip extends down about 7mm below the pedal, but that is not the edge, odds are your shoe or the outer edge of the pedal (as they are further outside) hits before the clip.
Another for a kid cheap bike through the shop for a friend, nothing fancy here. The shipping box was heavily damaged on this one but it was the last one and was clearance.... We knew the rear mech was trashed in shipping but everything else needed to be checked over for any other major problems and it would have went back...
Rims needed truing and spoke tension adjustments (likely from the factory), rear mech was bent from the shipping (replaced for now with a spare to get it going, original dealer is replacing), rear hanger was out just a tad and trued (see my improvised derailleur hanger tool--a spare rim and a ruler...), frame was straight (confirmed by my expensive string frame tool and ruler). All done and ready to go.
Quick release rear axle is the same thread as a derailleur. Use a strong rim with no bearing play and maybe a disposable one. Always use the same reference point on both rims and rotate the two together (valve stem hole) to take trueness out of the equation. Use a ruler to measure the difference. You can use the spare rim as leverage for any required minor tweaks.
Rims needed truing and spoke tension adjustments (likely from the factory), rear mech was bent from the shipping (replaced for now with a spare to get it going, original dealer is replacing), rear hanger was out just a tad and trued (see my improvised derailleur hanger tool--a spare rim and a ruler...), frame was straight (confirmed by my expensive string frame tool and ruler). All done and ready to go.
Quick release rear axle is the same thread as a derailleur. Use a strong rim with no bearing play and maybe a disposable one. Always use the same reference point on both rims and rotate the two together (valve stem hole) to take trueness out of the equation. Use a ruler to measure the difference. You can use the spare rim as leverage for any required minor tweaks.
Last edited:
Crappy day for any kind of riding, so I cleaned up and rebuilt some gunked up, scratched up and road rashed rear mech from the parts bin. The Sora just got rebuilt while I wet sanded and polished the Tiagra and 105. Far from perfect (good from afar?) but more than good enough for me... Raw aluminum now so they will need a little extra care to keep looking good.
All three had (have for the Sora....) some very deep gouges, the Tiagra was likely more work than it was worth....
All three had (have for the Sora....) some very deep gouges, the Tiagra was likely more work than it was worth....
Last edited:
OK, I have totally been proven wrong when I said a platform free single sided (mountain style) spd pedals did not exist. These fell into my lap today!
They are model PD-A525 and from my quick research were early 90s (give or take) 105 (road) clipless SPDs (possibly pre SPD-SL). Apparently they had an Ultegra and Dura Ace version back then as well. Sadly they also have 1990s weight, almost 400g for the pair on my scale.
|
|
|
|
|