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Any GTAM'ers own an electric vehicle?
- Thread starter PrivatePilot
- Start date
Marginal EV range? Are we talking about the same car? (You say later on, that 80km is all people need, so I am confused ...) ... the lowest model ever never had less than 115km of EV range, current generation has about 185km (EPA rated; I'd say 140ish average through 12mths incl. winter and hwy mix). The range extender ICE operates as series hybrid, meaning, it's pretty efficient for what it is. Yes, when ICE kicks in, it's far from the EV performance, but it's really to get you home or to fast charger. So I am not sure how can you even compare this vehicle to bad "hybrids" carrying 10kWh battery and having 20km EV range .... day and night difference.
I'm with you on these <40 km range PHEV's though. They are dumb and barely worth plugging in (and I suspect people will stop bothering to charge them as the novelty wears off). At ~80 km, many people can commute on electric alone, with <40 I suspect most people will be burning fuel daily (unless they charge at home and work). The price jump vs potential cost savings just doesn't add up until the range climbs.[/QUOTE]
Most people in GTA would be OK with 40km for commute ... that's math vs average commute distance. But it's not practical, because you need to run errands after commute and have no time for charging until overnight. So, 60-80, I'd say is minimum. It's a good minimum balance between need and want ....
Took the intake off and soaked the TB with Sea Foam. Let it sit for a few mins then stated the ICE.
Idled fine for half an hour.
So.... problem solved?!
I thought about this a bit and I remembered this same issue with my buddy's Mini and my neighbour's Audi.
After ruling out plugs and coils it was actually carboned-up intake valves.
Im not sure if the Volt is susceptible to that but something to check.
After ruling out plugs and coils it was actually carboned-up intake valves.
Im not sure if the Volt is susceptible to that but something to check.
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O2 sensor has been replaced. That fault code is now gone.
So it ran fine absolutely perfect when I had the AIH removed from on top of the motor and it was pulling air right into the TB. I let it run for a good 20-30 mins and not a single hiccup.
Bolted the AIH, snorkels and airbox back on, and the miss came back.
Disconnected the upper airbox from the lower (bypass the air filter) no change.
Disconnected the intake snorkel from the upper airbox (bypass the MAF sensor) and the idle smoothed our right away.
Switched between these setups and the consistent result was that when intake air is being pulled past the MAF sensor there is a miss.
Tried cleaning the MAF sensor but saw no change. I know that a faulty or dirty MAF sensor can cause idle issues. Process of elimination makes me think the MAF sensor is faulty but I’m not getting any codes directly related to it.
Sounds like it. See if you can get the MAF tested, I think the self-test is kinda crude and won't catch some out of calibration MAFs. Or even better if you can swap with a known good one. If only there were a way to reach a lot of local Volt owners willing to help... of well.
Dunno if your OBD reader gives you the ECU calibration but if so you can check if it's the latest version here https://tis2web.service.gm.com/tis2web Could just need a software update.
What does AIH stand for?
Dunno if your OBD reader gives you the ECU calibration but if so you can check if it's the latest version here https://tis2web.service.gm.com/tis2web Could just need a software update.
What does AIH stand for?
Iceman
Well-known member
I once got a lean bank/ misfiring code after an oil change and air filter swap. After much head scratching I realized the "tech had put the MAF in backwards, the airflow arrow was pointing the wrong direction. Flipped it around and it ran fine.
Sent from my SM-A500W using Tapatalk
I think it will only go in one way but I will double check!
Edit: MAF sensor can only be installed one way.
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O2 sensors, MAF sensors ... it must be ICE releated thread no? Did I wander into wrong forum? ... LOL ... I certainly don't miss those from VW Golf ... dashboard always lit up like xmas tree, no matter what or how often you replace the sensors. These sensors are great business, said one well known economist ... 
I'd check here for guidance/answers: http://gm-volt.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?16-Generation-1-Volt-(2011-2015)
I'm sure someone has run across similar issues.
And yeah, as an Audi owner if the CEL isn't on the bulb is burned out. J/K, but you do need a scantool as part of the ownership experience...
I'm sure someone has run across similar issues.
And yeah, as an Audi owner if the CEL isn't on the bulb is burned out. J/K, but you do need a scantool as part of the ownership experience...
Some gold there.
• Audio system came on and went to full volume all by itself while the car was off, locked and unoccupied. I heard it from 100 yards away. "Who is that joker playing his stereo so loud I can hear it from here?" Oh, it's Elon. I turned it down, but it kept wavering up and down as I started driving, working against my repeated attempts to dial it down. Then it blasted all the way to maximum. My ears are still ringing two hours later. Fixed after reboot. Not sure about hearing damage.
• The passenger vanity mirror fell off completely. Installed and held on only by double-sided tape. Reinstalled by pressing really hard on the mirror.
• The car displays a new message: "Cannot Maintain Vehicle Power. Car May Stop Driving or Shut Down." No shutdowns yet, but keeping an eye out.
After reading that report from Edmunds I'm even happier that I got the Bolt and didn't wait for the Model 3. I've had a couple of glitches with the Bolt, but nothing that bad and after the latest software update (completed over the air) it's been much better.
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