2011 ZX-6R - Accessories

gobu

Well-known member
Hi Guys!

I am taking possession of a new 2011 ZX-6R.

I am considering the following upgrades:

This one is the tail-light integrator:

http://www.customled.com/products/integrators/2009_2010_ZX6R/2009_2010_zx6r.htm

This one is the fender-eliminator:

http://www.amazon.com/GKA-Industries-2009-2011-Fender-Eliminator/dp/B0052GK6QA

One more thing, I want to get angel-eyes or atleast, get HID installed, 8000K , any recommendation on a particular HID kit brand, not those cheap china brands, etc.

 
For the fender eliminator, make sure you get one with lights that will make your plate visible at night.
 
Woodcraft makes the best sliders on the market IMO, because they dont have a hole in the middle of the actual slider pucks. That gives them way more surface area to slide on, so they dont wear down during the crash letting other bits touch the ground...

Compared to something like a Vortex slider that wears down to the base after 10 feet of sliding, because of the huge hole in the middle of the sliders..
 
Thanks for the feed-back, I'll go grab woodcraft sliders.

Also, I want to HID kit as I mentioned above, I searched on google in regards to getting angel eyes /w HID, I think i want to stay away from it for the time being, they are talking about baking (in the oven) the headlight assembly, cutting, and gluing, etc.

So, just a pair of HIDs, 8000K should be good? What's the blub size?

How do I get rid of daylight running lights?, I want it so, with a flip of a switch (or even the stock low/beam, high/beam button), I want both sides of the headlights to light up with HID,

Any thoughts on this?
 
Hey!

Thanks for the link, for the following: http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=5860

It says there might be minor body work to be done? Is this true for 2011 ZX6R, I want to avoid body work all at possible.

And for these: http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=1314

Where do these go? I am bit confused, the bike has only two places, front left and front right , to install right? These are referring to the rears, where are they? 10mm 2-step is better than 10mm 1-step, as recommended on the site?
 
Hey!

Thanks for the link, for the following: http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=5860

It says there might be minor body work to be done? Is this true for 2011 ZX6R, I want to avoid body work all at possible.

And for these: http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=1314

Where do these go? I am bit confused, the bike has only two places, front left and front right , to install right? These are referring to the rears, where are they? 10mm 2-step is better than 10mm 1-step, as recommended on the site?

Sometimes you have to cut the fairings to bolt the sliders on to the frame, that particular model requires you to do so. However, there are some that require no cutting to the fairings. The Sato frame sliders for your bike requires no cutting...
http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=5906

The lower link is for your swingarm, they are spools that allow you to attach the rear stand. At the same time they protect the swingarm in case you drop the bike.

installed-774252.jpg
 
Sometimes you have to cut the fairings to bolt the sliders on to the frame, that particular model requires you to do so. However, there are some that require no cutting to the fairings.

The lower link is for your swingarm, they are spools that allow you to attach the rear stand. At the same time they protect the swingarm in case you drop the bike.

installed-774252.jpg

I suggest you dont use swingarm spool sliders on any ZX6R, the bungs are only tack welded to the bottom of the swingarm and they just snap off when you use spool sliders...If you want rear sliders you should look at axle sliders...

Even on the Yamaha you posted they are useless, Yamaha only use a 6mm bolt...So the bolt just snaps...
 
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I suggest you dont use swingarm spool sliders on any ZX6R, the bungs are only tack welded to the bottom of the swingarm and they just snap off when you use spool sliders...If you want rear sliders you should look at axle sliders...

Even on the Yamaha you posted they are useless, Yamaha only use a 6mm bolt...So the bolt just snaps...

Take Johnny's advice, he knows a hell of a lot more than I do...
Not sure if the LSL frame sliders require cutting the fairings on your bike, but I have a set of those on mine and I love them, they bolt right on the casings and they look pretty cool.

spiegler_frame_slider_gsxr600_0607_nomods_400.jpg
 
Also, I want to HID kit as I mentioned above, I searched on google in regards to getting angel eyes /w HID, I think i want to stay away from it for the time being, they are talking about baking (in the oven) the headlight assembly, cutting, and gluing, etc.

So, just a pair of HIDs, 8000K should be good? What's the blub size?

How do I get rid of daylight running lights?, I want it so, with a flip of a switch (or even the stock low/beam, high/beam button), I want both sides of the headlights to light up with HID,

Any thoughts on this?

Yes. Don't do the lighting modifications that you are proposing. None of them.

Here's why: Safety, and legality. Your safety on the road has to take priority over "vanity", appearance, etc.

The "integrated tail lamp" that you are proposing gives very poor visibility of the turn signal functions compared to the stock signals. If you are riding with others, do you want the rider behind you to hit you because they couldn't see your signal and therefore didn't realize that you were planning to turn off the road? Do you want car drivers to not see what you are planning to do?

ALL "integrated tail lamps" have this situation. There is a minimum separation distance between left and right signals in the CMVSS lighting standards which no "integrated tail lamp" can possibly be in compliance with. That minimum separation distance requirement is there to make the signal visible to others behind you!

As for your headlights ... All motorcycles built after 1971 are legally required to have a white lamp facing forward which is on at all times when the engine is running, and that lamp has to be visible (essentially, it has to be a headlight). This is for SAFETY. Do you want that car driver up ahead to turn left in front of you because they didn't see you because you didn't have a working headlight because you forgot to turn them on (remember, it's daylight, you can't see if the light is on or off when you are on the bike). You want that lamp to come on automatically and not have the option to turn it off (i.e. you don't want the option of forgetting to turn it on).

HID bulbs in standard reflector housings will generally not have proper low-beam cutoff (i.e. they will send too much light too high, blinding oncoming drivers). Some reflector designs are better than others, I have no idea whether the specific reflector housings in your bike will give an acceptable beam pattern.

If you INSIST on HID bulbs, the 4000 - 5000 K colour temperature range will give best visibility. 8000 K will have lower light output and the light will be more blue/purple. Remember, your forward-facing lamp has to be WHITE ... not blue or purple.

I know you want to customize your ride. I know you want to attract attention. But your safety has to come first. And, sometimes, NOT attracting attention (of the cops ...) is a good thing.
 
Take Johnny's advice, he knows a hell of a lot more than I do...
Not sure if the LSL frame sliders require cutting the fairings on your bike, but I have a set of those on mine and I love them, they bolt right on the casings and they look pretty cool.

spiegler_frame_slider_gsxr600_0607_nomods_400.jpg

Those are really nice and Woodcracft has sliders built into their case covers too, but I wouldnt use them as a replacement for frame sliders...I would use them with frame sliders for even more protection...

When it comes to frame sliders, the more no cut they are the longer the bracket is to allow that...The longer the bracket the more leverage it can have, and the easier it will bent or snap....

The 09-2011 Woodcraft sliders require a tiny bit of trimming, not really a hole cutting....Its worth it in the end, I have way too many bent up and snapped off no cut frame sliders here at the shop. That come off crashed bikes, so I see what works and what doesnt.....Bottom line if they are no cut, they are not as strong as ones that bolt straight on without an adapter
 
Depending upon the bike, of course, as some bikes have good, solid bolting positions available without cutting.

Mounted straight to a solid point = good

Mounted to some finicky bracket = bad
 
customled - have this on my 09 zx6r - really bright. and works great. Only complaint is from about 200m away, its hard to tell if my left or right blinker is on. You can easily tell I have a blinker on, but hard to see what way im turning :)

I used license plate bolt leds to light up my plate.

Frame sliders - definetly woodcraft LSL are nice too, but the mounting isnt ideal on a zx6r

Angel eys - I would say these have been way over done. Avoid.

HID's I only reccommend doing your lowbeam. In my expeirences HID's take a bit longer to get bright, so you cant really flash your highbeams for various reasons. Would also stay under 6000k DDM makes good HID kits - about 50 bucks per light.

Rear spools - I agree with JohnnyP636 - they are not going to do well in a crash. But they take 5 seconds to put on/off.. usefull when working on the bike. and cost like $7
 
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