webb70
Well-known member
You can sell it, but it has to be repaired before they will pass the truck a second time.....
‘Check engine’ light on? Expect to fail new Drive Clean test
- Thread starter Wingboy
- Start date
Just a FYI:
If you want to do the reset prior to an E-test you can do it without any "tool" to get the same result.
Some times these codes for emissions won't pop up right away and it gives you time to go do the test before they do. I have seen some codes stay out for weeks and some come back in minutes so it's random but this costs nothing to try....
After you do this, follow the drive cycle instructions posted on page 1.
Make sure the vehicle is cold. Disconnect the battery and press your brake pedal for a few seconds. This will get rid of any charge left in the system. If there is any doubt, wait for an hour before you start.
Reconnect the battery and start your car without touching the gas. It is possible it may seem harder to start but this just confirms the ECU is reset. Crank the vehicle until it starts, leave the gas alone. Let it run until it has reached operating temp......
Follow the instructions on loading the sytem and type of driving.
If you're lucky your code won't pop up for long enough to get through the test.
This is hit and miss but works for some CEL issues. Mostly emissions sytem ones.
Or, get an address North of the smog line and don't worry about E testing.
If you want to do the reset prior to an E-test you can do it without any "tool" to get the same result.
Some times these codes for emissions won't pop up right away and it gives you time to go do the test before they do. I have seen some codes stay out for weeks and some come back in minutes so it's random but this costs nothing to try....
After you do this, follow the drive cycle instructions posted on page 1.
Make sure the vehicle is cold. Disconnect the battery and press your brake pedal for a few seconds. This will get rid of any charge left in the system. If there is any doubt, wait for an hour before you start.
Reconnect the battery and start your car without touching the gas. It is possible it may seem harder to start but this just confirms the ECU is reset. Crank the vehicle until it starts, leave the gas alone. Let it run until it has reached operating temp......
Follow the instructions on loading the sytem and type of driving.
If you're lucky your code won't pop up for long enough to get through the test.
This is hit and miss but works for some CEL issues. Mostly emissions sytem ones.
Or, get an address North of the smog line and don't worry about E testing.
augiedog77
Member
U can still sell the vehicles without a valid etest
That's what I was wondering. Obviously it's Rob Ford's fault.
Dirty Frank
Well-known member
I never said he did, are you having trouble comprehending english?
Wingboy will have to pay some mechanic to fix his car, and pay some other guy for the test, both of those businesses pay taxes, hence he's helping boost the economy.
And Harper is still the leader of Canada as far as i know, so what part didn't you understand again?
If you disconnect your battery or it goes dead it can take up to 2 days for all sensors to complete a stored and compare cycle. With the cold temps the evap system sometimes won't even come on to set a parameter.
We been having many vehicles fail this test due to just something as simple as a battery replacement.
It's just a scan now to see if all emissions sensors are active and responding.
Clearing the codes still won make it pass if there is a faulty af sensor or sticking bypass valve.
It's a total cash grab by the government and many many vehicles are failing that would have easily passed on the dyno.
We been having many vehicles fail this test due to just something as simple as a battery replacement.
It's just a scan now to see if all emissions sensors are active and responding.
Clearing the codes still won make it pass if there is a faulty af sensor or sticking bypass valve.
It's a total cash grab by the government and many many vehicles are failing that would have easily passed on the dyno.
Thats what i've been doing on my 328. I'm guessing mechanic couldnt be bothered or maybe it doesnt affect the system
I'm trying to code minds out from the computer
Sent from my Phone, dont judge the grammar
Who crapped in your corn flakes? So what does Mr. Harper have to do with a PROVINCIAL cash grab again?
Motorcycle Mike
Well-known member
Instead of everyone bitching about this where it won't help, everyone should dig up some articles and/or organize data about how this new form of emission test does not prevent pollution and call, visit, or write your MPP.
Nothing will be done about it bitching here, but going after the MPPs might.
Nothing will be done about it bitching here, but going after the MPPs might.
This is how grass roots movements start. Awareness. Another way to raise awareness is to peddle across Canada. It's cold out.
So just to clear out some smoke hopefully.
I have had an engine light always on in my old car (for the last 7 years that I owned it). The only code was for EVAP system, pretty sure it was the overfilled canister that sits on top of the tank, and you do have to drop the tank to get to that canister in that car. This car has passed emission test with excellent numbers every two years. Anyway, battery disconnected for a few minutes, connected back, go for emission test... surprise, they do it the 'new way'. Well, car passed without any problems again. I checked the report and in a small table on the side it did say 'EVAP system - not ready'.
I have had an engine light always on in my old car (for the last 7 years that I owned it). The only code was for EVAP system, pretty sure it was the overfilled canister that sits on top of the tank, and you do have to drop the tank to get to that canister in that car. This car has passed emission test with excellent numbers every two years. Anyway, battery disconnected for a few minutes, connected back, go for emission test... surprise, they do it the 'new way'. Well, car passed without any problems again. I checked the report and in a small table on the side it did say 'EVAP system - not ready'.
Brian, which subsystems are those? My car was 10.5 yrs when tested. For some reason, tech at canadian tire mentioned that they couldn't test cars, which are 98 or older, at that time.
daught
Well-known member
Would you even get a code if the cat is not working properly?
What about non OBD cars?
My dad is SOL no one would test his 97 Jetta diesel. It's retarded. There should be some exemption in this transitional period if no one can test your car.
What about non OBD cars?
My dad is SOL no one would test his 97 Jetta diesel. It's retarded. There should be some exemption in this transitional period if no one can test your car.
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Bad cat is usually a P0420 or 440 code that's set when the a/f and o2 sensors are not reading enough difference in cat function essentially.
gf's car (2006) has an intermittent tps sensor error, the tps apparently is dirty. needed etesting this month. after clearing the code it usually stays away about a week or a month... having cleared it did the above mentioned cycle and brought it in, passed no problem..
wonderings
Well-known member
Did not know about this, another reason I am glad I bought a new car back in October. The last 2 cars I have owned, older Hondas and Acura, had the check engine light on. On my acura is was on for at least 5 years, always passed e-tests, same with the honda, though I only had it for 2 years, but engine light was on. Why does the light on mean you will fail? If the emissions are ok, why should it matter what lights are on in the car?
