‘Check engine’ light on? Expect to fail new Drive Clean test

Wingboy

Wingboy

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This is a total cash grab! My 1998 Chev S10 has passed every e-test in the past with the engine light on,no problem.It's caused by a sticking valve in the evap canister,It DOESN'T pollute any more with the sticky valve than without.It just makes the light come on.It's been on for about 7 years ffs.Now i have to pay a mechanic $500 to drop the gas tank to replace a $27 plastic box.Boooooo Ontario!!!
 
Should have listened when I told folks to get it done under the old procedure before the new year ... too late now!

I'm all set, complete with leaking EGR cooler, for the next couple of years.
 
Oh but wait a minute,if the repairs are more than $450 (easy if the tank needs to be dropped) they give me a pass.But then the truck can't be sold.Now my truck is worth $0.00.Thanks Ontario!
 
Thanks for the economy boost Wingboy!
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....and the hits just keep on comin!!
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Pretty sure you can get to that canister without dropping the tank on that truck. I wouldn't even pay a shop to do the job.

Did one in an 07 Avalanche this summer in the drive way.
 
Should have placed some tape over the engine trouble indicator light before you brought it in.
 
Gaggu P said:
Hook up a code reader and delete the code right before its taken in ...
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It will then fail cause it hasn't completed a drive cycle
 
CruisnGrrl said:
How long is a drive cycle?
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Has to be driven for x amount on the highway and x amount in the city. I've heard the best way to do it is idle the vehicle for 10 mins with the defrost on, then 5 with it off, 10-15 mins on the highway, and 20-30 city driving
 
CruisnGrrl said:
How long is a drive cycle?
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Should've googled first :$ lol

Gm says
http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html



General Motors Driving Cycle

A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
Reprinted on OBDII web site courtesy of General Motors Corporation
© General Motors Corporation
 
When I read about the planned changes to the emissions test last November I got my '04 Mazda3 in for a test right away. The check engine light has been on for a couple of years now and even the dealer recommended to just ignore it. The usual problem with the sensor on top of the tank and they estimated $400.00+ to replace it. We can now drive it for another two years before getting rid of it.
 
Well of course I procrastinated and didn't do it before the end of last year. Do you think a small shop would still be able to do it the old way?
 
imnothng said:
Well of course I procrastinated and didn't do it before the end of last year. Do you think a small shop would still be able to do it the old way?
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Nope.

Here's the part that really burns my ***.If i get a shop to try and fix it,but can't for less than $450.I get a pass but can't resell the truck.Now i would be able to sell it to a wreckers for a few hundred where they could make a LOT more.What a scam!
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