Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

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Differences between Rockwool Comfortbatt R22 vs R24...

When I ramped up my renos a few years back I noticed there were two different versions for 2X6 wood with 16" spacing Rockwool. At the time I didn't think anything of it, I assumed one was old stock and the other new and improved (or just marketing nonsense) but it does not appear so as they are both still made and sold. What bugs me is trying to find information online that gives a clear answer on the differences (searches get lots of nonsense)... even the Rockwool descriptions seem to be more or less the same.... During the COVID shortages I am sure at different times I grabbed one or the other and thought nothing of it based on what was avaiable that day.

As I was buying some last weekend, here are my observations with both sold beside each other... for both the batts are same width, length, and depth per batt. Package sizes look to be more or less the same (or very close). The actual noted differences...

R22 has 8 per package, R24 has 6 per package.
R22 package covers 39.8 sq.ft, R24 package covers 29.7 sq.ft (of course as there are less batts)
R22 weighs 122 lbs per package, R24 weights 135 lbs per package.
R22 is ~$97, R24 is ~$133

So obviously the R24 is denser and compresses less for packaging (so less per package, but more weight), costs much more per sq.ft but offers 2 extra R... Just ranting... just annoying trying to find out what/why the differences.
 
backmarkerducati said:
Differences between Rockwool Comfortbatt R22 vs R24...

When I ramped up my renos a few years back I noticed there were two different versions for 2X6 wood with 16" spacing Rockwool. At the time I didn't think anything of it, I assumed one was old stock and the other new and improved (or just marketing nonsense) but it does not appear so as they are both still made and sold. What bugs me is trying to find information online that gives a clear answer on the differences (searches get lots of nonsense)... even the Rockwool descriptions seem to be more or less the same.... During the COVID shortages I am sure at different times I grabbed one or the other and thought nothing of it based on what was avaiable that day.

As I was buying some last weekend, here are my observations with both sold beside each other... for both the batts are same width, length, and depth per batt. Package sizes look to be more or less the same (or very close). The actual noted differences...

R22 has 8 per package, R24 has 6 per package.
R22 package covers 39.8 sq.ft, R24 package covers 29.7 sq.ft (of course as there are less batts)
R22 weighs 122 lbs per package, R24 weights 135 lbs per package.
R22 is ~$97, R24 is ~$133

So obviously the R24 is denser and compresses less for packaging (so less per package, but more weight), costs much more per sq.ft but offers 2 extra R... Just ranting... just annoying trying to find out what/why the differences.
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Rockwool has some great marketing and I'd pay the premium in specific applications where I believe it provides some benefit. For most people, most of the time, fiberglass Batts are fine and nobody could tell the difference in the finished partition. I am partial to JM as it itches less but they are all sideways imo.
 
GreyGhost said:
Rockwool has some great marketing and I'd pay the premium in specific applications where I believe it provides some benefit. For most people, most of the time, fiberglass Batts are fine and nobody could tell the difference in the finished partition. I am partial to JM as it itches less but they are all sideways imo.
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I drink the Rockwool koolaide... I just get annoyed these days when what and why is difficult or impossible to find.
 
They make two different as some places and installation may be trying ( or required ) to hit R whatever . So you have an A and a B . B is denser and costs more and you get less coverage . They also have to keep packaging within a certain scope so six pc vs eight for weight per bundle . Roxul ( Rockwool ) gets maximum efficiency when they can turn on the furnace and conveyor and make R twelve all day . It’s a great product and has a lot of value over glass , but it does cost more . If I was doing a new build and it was for me , it would be the only choice .


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Our house was built in 1992. Had it built. I've done a fair bit of work in the attic over the years. Insulation looks terrible. I'm thinking we should get it up to code. R60? Should the old stuff be removed?
Anyone here have this done recently?
2000 S/F of space. What's the going rate?
 
AllistonGT said:
Our house was built in 1992. Had it built. I've done a fair bit of work in the attic over the years. Insulation looks terrible. I'm thinking we should get it up to code. R60? Should the old stuff be removed?
Anyone here have this done recently?
2000 S/F of space. What's the going rate?
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I added at the old house. Blew in on top of existing. Machine rental was free if you bought 10 bags. <500 sq ft footprint. Cheaper to buy 10 bags than buy the right number and rent the machine. It had so many feet of insulation it was ridiculous.

Make sure you build a collar for the hatch so insulation doesn't avalanche when you open it and baffles to keep airflow from the eaves. Blown in has many advantages but if you move through it it collapses greatly (like half height after wading through once and 1/30th for the stuff you step on). Make sure you do any electrical/air sealing/whatever before you blow. Some people pull the old insulation to get rid of mouse crap, address air sealing, etc. That is a lot of work and money to get it out and then your bill for new insulation is higher too.

MP had it done a few years ago iirc.

Edit:
If you plan on moving through attic for future projects, I'd use batts.
 
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GreyGhost said:
I added at the old house. Blew in on top of existing. Machine rental was free if you bought 10 bags. <500 sq ft footprint. Cheaper to buy 10 bags than buy the right number and rent the machine. It had so many feet of insulation it was ridiculous.

Make sure you build a collar for the hatch so insulation doesn't avalanche when you open it and baffles to keep airflow from the eaves. Blown in has many advantages but if you move through it it collapses greatly (like half height after wading through once and 1/30th for the stuff you step on). Make sure you do any electrical/air sealing/whatever before you blow. Some people pull the old insulation to get rid of mouse crap, address air sealing, etc. That is a lot of work and money to get it out and then your bill for new insulation is higher too.

MP had it done a few years ago iirc.
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I'll be paying someone to do it. Vent baffles have to be extended as well.
 
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Mine was done just before we bought the house , it’s almost three ft deep . Plywood tube around the access hatch means you need a ladder to get over it and I’m not sure how anything could ever be done up there for maintenance.


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crankcall said:
Mine was done just before we bought the house , it’s almost three ft deep . Plywood tube around the access hatch means you need a ladder to get over it and I’m not sure how anything could ever be done up there for maintenance.


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My current house didn't come with a tube. I built one out of 2" EPS with a lid. Significantly reduces heat loss through the hatch. Tube does make accessing attic more awkward.
 
crankcall said:
Mine was done just before we bought the house , it’s almost three ft deep . Plywood tube around the access hatch means you need a ladder to get over it and I’m not sure how anything could ever be done up there for maintenance.


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GreyGhost said:
My current house didn't come with a tube. I built one out of 2" EPS with a lid. Significantly reduces heat loss through the hatch. Tube does make accessing attic more awkward.
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I bought a telescopic ladder for this exact purpose.
Hatches are often in closets where there is no room to set up a standard a-frame. Then I would still need another few feet to get up here comfortably.

 
oioioi said:
I bought a telescopic ladder for this exact purpose.
Hatches are often in closets where there is no room to set up a standard a-frame. Then I would still need another few feet to get up here comfortably.

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I've got the same setup at my place - 2-3' tall plywood "wall" around the opening, and 10' ceilings don't help. Worst is, every time I open the hatch, dust and small bits of insulation fall down onto everything in the walk-in closet, so there's an additional PITA to tarp everything first. Should there be that much airflow up there? It's one of the reasons why I'm thinking of making a second entrance from the garage, maybe with a pull-down staircase.
 
GreyGhost said:
From a reasonably trustworthy source in Orillia:

"Orillia is reaching record-breaking levels of snowfall so far this year, and we are all feeling defeated. I've heard word that a total of 9 barns in the surrounding area (7 in Oro, 2 in Rama) have collapsed in some way due to the weight of the ice and snow on their roof. Also seeing a photo circulating this morning of a house in town that has caved in.
😢
"
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Another collapse today near Creemore. Ornge sent a chopper.

Roof pitch is not steep and there was about 12" of ice on the building to the right that didn't collapse. Snow load on the building that collapsed doesn't look like something I would be too concerned about (unless there was obvious thick ice).

1740173723340.png

EDIT:
Condolences to the friends and family. Friends that knew him speak very highly of him.

www.cp24.com

One person confirmed dead after building collapse northwest of Creemore, Ont.

Police confirm one person was found dead inside a collapsed building northwest of Creemore, Ont. on Friday afternoon.
www.cp24.com www.cp24.com
 
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crankcall said:
I wonder have they revised engineering in snow belt based on the last decade. How old are these barns that are coming down ? Hundred yr old chestnut timber frames or plastic over tubing frame sets ?


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I haven't checked my barns yet but would not be shocked it some fell 100 years old barns in tough shape.

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Got an email today from my insurance company. Intact. ******* morons.
5 cm. lol.

Prevent roof damage​

Heavy snow accumulation can stress your roof, potentially leading to leaks or, in extreme cases, collapse. When the snow reaches a thickness of approximately 5 centimetres, it acts as your indicator that it’s time to clear it.
 
AllistonGT said:
Got an email today from my insurance company. Intact. ******* morons.
5 cm. lol.

Prevent roof damage​

Heavy snow accumulation can stress your roof, potentially leading to leaks or, in extreme cases, collapse. When the snow reaches a thickness of approximately 5 centimetres, it acts as your indicator that it’s time to clear it.
Click to expand...
5cm….that’s like one snowfall this year!

Glad I hustled like a mofo at the cottage. I’ve got icicles galore at the house now…and about a 2-3” ice dam. Glad most of the houses on my street have the same!
 
mimico_polak said:
5cm….that’s like one snowfall this year!

Glad I hustled like a mofo at the cottage. I’ve got icicles galore at the house now…and about a 2-3” ice dam. Glad most of the houses on my street have the same!
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Yup, every house I see in town has like 5-6" of ice dams.
 
AllistonGT said:
Got an email today from my insurance company. Intact. ******* morons.
5 cm. lol.

Prevent roof damage​

Heavy snow accumulation can stress your roof, potentially leading to leaks or, in extreme cases, collapse. When the snow reaches a thickness of approximately 5 centimetres, it acts as your indicator that it’s time to clear it.
Click to expand...
Damn...and here I thought I was special lol..

PiB6Poq.jpeg
 
I did a Canadian Tire run yesterday for some replacement auto supplies and every second person in/out of there was grabbing bags of salt and we haven't had much weather that'll cause ice on driveways so must be ice-dams.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
I did a Canadian Tire run yesterday for some replacement auto supplies and every second person in/out of there was grabbing bags of salt and we haven't had much weather that'll cause ice on driveways so must be ice-dams.
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Throwing NaCl on your roof is going to get expensive fast as you corrode everything. KCl is best and even CaCl is a better choice than nacl. People just hear salt and grab what they can.
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