I have seen this suggestion in several places as being the most sure fire way to do this, but sadly I don’t know how to weld or no anyone who does. Anyone between Toronto and Orillia want to help a guy out ? ;]
I have seen this suggestion in several places as being the most sure fire way to do this, but sadly I don’t know how to weld or no anyone who does. Anyone between Toronto and Orillia want to help a guy out ? ;]
Post a picture of your challenge and you'll get some good options that can be done with simple hand tools.
This is an everyday problem with plenty of simple solutions.
You guys are great. Here’s the best picture I could take.
It shows:
1) remnants of the outermost bearing face. Some of the stamping is still evident (though the dimensions are sadly not. STILL KICKING MYSELF FOR NOT MAKING NOTE OF THE STAMPINGS BEFORE WE DESTROYED THE BEARING FACE!!!)
2) what I believe is the outside sleeve or race of the bearing. I believe it may be frozen in. I have measured this to be just slightly more than 1mm thick.
3) what I believe is the backside bearing face. Maybe there is enough there that a bearing puller could grab it?
4) A shoulder in the swingarm bore beyond the bearing. The bore beyond that point is too narrow for me to get a socket behind the bearing to push it out.
The location of what I am calling a shoulder seems to line up pretty closely with a weld on the outside of the swingarm assembly, where one of the arms actually joins the part that the pivot shaft sits in :
P.s. I didn’t realize how much better Partszillia is then other Honda parts websites. For one thing, the numbers on the diagrams and their parts lists line up. And, they list parts dimensions And stock most of the parts or equivalents !!
I wouldn't go near that with a welder. The bearing cup is about a mm thick. Even with a TIG torch you have a hard time not going through the bearing and welding it to the swingarm.
... if you had access to a lathe: Make a plug that fits in there, and using a TIG welder (that you don't have) and weld the plug to whats left of the bearing cup that's folded up. While it's still hot, drive it out from the other side.
I 99% sure that if I had this task in front of me, I would use a Dremel to cut a slot, then peel it out with a chisel.
Blind bearing puller arrived an hour ago (yay Amazon Prime!!) ans I am happy to report I was able to get the bearing out ! The puller only had maybe 1.75mm to catch, including what remained of the backside bearing face so it worked pretty well.
I was a little worried because the gap in collet sizes around where I needed to be seemed pretty large so I had to expand the collet pretty far, but once attached to the slide hammer it came out after a few dozen whacks. There’s a spot of brown inside the bore that looks like maybe corrosion but I can’t feel anything with my fingers.
Afterwards I tried cutting the race with some triangular files. Didn’t work, the files just moved around and did not leave so much as a scratch.
Thank you all - if anyone needs to borrow mine let me know !!
You guys are great. Here’s the best picture I could take.
It shows:
1) remnants of the outermost bearing face. Some of the stamping is still evident (though the dimensions are sadly not. STILL KICKING MYSELF FOR NOT MAKING NOTE OF THE STAMPINGS BEFORE WE DESTROYED THE BEARING FACE!!!)
2) what I believe is the outside sleeve or race of the bearing. I believe it may be frozen in. I have measured this to be just slightly more than 1mm thick.
3) what I believe is the backside bearing face. Maybe there is enough there that a bearing puller could grab it?
4) A shoulder in the swingarm bore beyond the bearing. The bore beyond that point is too narrow for me to get a socket behind the bearing to push it out. View attachment 57418
After disconnecting just about everything from the wiring harness I found out my problem (see Technical - Faulty Points - 1976 CB750F) was the somewhere in the regulator. It's adjustable. If adjustment doesn't solve the issue then I'll steal one from my "stash".
Big day for the Jeep today getting ready for winter; oil change, transmission fluid change, rotated the tires, and new wiper blades.
First time doing the tranny fluid on this JL at 72k km. I'm surprised at the small amount of metal shaving on the plug considering this is the vehicle I learned stick on and I've ground a gear 4 or 5 times, plus looking at videos online usually there are more.
You might want to look at quality aftermarket drive belts, about 1/2 the price from Royal or Fort9. I've replaced drive belts on Suzukis before, they failed after picking up debris that gets impeded in the belt, not because the sprockets are worn. Yeah I found a less expensive aftermarket...
www.gtamotorcycle.com
But thought it was better here
Anyhow got around the replacing the belt on my bike. Whole primary need to be removed, and rear fork
Here's how that looks
Tada! belt is off
Yeah I needs to do some cleaning
Besides replacing the belt I upgraded the compensator, to HD's heavy duty version, which requires a deflector to be glued on the inside of the primary. Get this HD wanted $75 for the glue! JB weld to the recuse!.
And it's back together
Forgot to take intermediate pictures.
Dumb moment time!
When I got it all back together it didn't start. Back when I was taking it apart I had to remove the starter, and my ratchet extension touched the positive terminal of the starter sparking a bit, Yikkies! Yeah I forgot to remove the neg at the battery. So that started some other troubleshooting nonsense. Checking relays etc, and cleaning wire contacts, and charging the battery. In the end the problem was I put the relay back into the wrong spot! Started up fine....
I also fixed the problem with my rear brake chatter, which has been going on far too long. Found the problem after talking with a HD tech. The rear wheel ABS bracket has a rubber nib, if it's not seated will push the bracket out from the rear fork. Re-seated that, and presto bracket aligns properly and the noise is gone. I think this was the best improvement of the whole process.
Back to the belt. Mine was probably way over due, and the knuckle heads at HD said it was ok even when I was at the end of the adjustment cams. Now I have sooooo much more adjustment room.
Bike is running again. But still dealing with some intermitiant sputtering at idle, and now these little surges which I will deal with next.
You might want to look at quality aftermarket drive belts, about 1/2 the price from Royal or Fort9. I've replaced drive belts on Suzukis before, they failed after picking up debris that gets impeded in the belt, not because the sprockets are worn. Yeah I found a less expensive aftermarket...
www.gtamotorcycle.com
But thought it was better here
Anyhow got around the replacing the belt on my bike. Whole primary need to be removed, and rear fork
Besides replacing the belt I upgraded the compensator, to HD's heavy duty version, which requires a deflector to be glued on the inside of the primary. Get this HD wanted $75 for the glue! JB weld to the recuse!. View attachment 57504
Dumb moment time!
When I got it all back together it didn't start. Back when I was taking it apart I had to remove the starter, and my ratchet extension touched the positive terminal of the starter sparking a bit, Yikkies! Yeah I forgot to remove the neg at the battery. So that started some other troubleshooting nonsense. Checking relays etc, and cleaning wire contacts, and charging the battery. In the end the problem was I put the relay back into the wrong spot! Started up fine....
I also fixed the problem with my rear brake chatter, which has been going on far too long. Found the problem after talking with a HD tech. The rear wheel ABS bracket has a rubber nib, if it's not seated will push the bracket out from the rear fork. Re-seated that, and presto bracket aligns properly and the noise is gone. I think this was the best improvement of the whole process.
Back to the belt. Mine was probably way over due, and the knuckle heads at HD said it was ok even when I was at the end of the adjustment cams. Now I have sooooo much more adjustment room.
Bike is running again. But still dealing with some intermitiant sputtering at idle, and now these little surges which I will deal with next.
I'm still considering another bike. Getting a little tired of dealing with constant hiccups. I was chatting with a goldwing (2007 version) rider yesterday and the only thing he has replaced in so many years of riding is a air filter and tires.....not even brake pads... with 130,000 k on the bike.
Not sure if I will buy something this season as is getting late and I've got some other expenses going on so it might be pushed until next year. Still looking around though.
I'm still considering another bike. Getting a little tired of dealing with constant hiccups. I was chatting with a goldwing (2007 version) rider yesterday and the only thing he has replaced in so many years of riding is a air filter and tires.....not even brake pads... with 130,000 k on the bike.
Not sure if I will buy something this season as is getting late and I've got some other expenses going on so it might be pushed until next year. Still looking around though.
Thanks for the update. I definitely wouldn't have a wing as my alternate. Too similar to what you have. If I got a wing, I would move the HD along to a new owner.
Thanks for the update. I definitely wouldn't have a wing as my alternate. Too similar to what you have. If I got a wing, I would move the HD along to a new owner.
Oh agreed the bikes are too similar. More was the consideration of how little issues Japanese bikes have, which I hope to tap into so I can concentrate more on riding then wrenching.
This is a common comment from HD owners. You'll have to decide if the relatively frequent repairs are offset by the glow you get from owning a HD. Most GW and similar bike owners do routine PM type maintenance, but fixing broken things is relatively rare.
Once you get past that it's a Wing, having all that lockable storage and bottom end grunt is kind of nice.
The Squeeze & I put lots of happy miles on ours.
Maintenance wise it was great although I ended up replacing the rear end because I did't know about the special moly grease requirement for the splines.
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