Or just go to your local motorcycle shop, get the old one checked and go from there.How long does it take to remove the battery, drive it to CT where they always tell you it's dead, return and reinstall it? And even if you ordered one online, are you just going to stare at the bike while you're waiting for it to arrive?
Not in a hurry to fix it, have other bikes I can ride.Or just go to your local motorcycle shop, get the old one checked and go from there.
KLR uses a YB14L-A2 which is a very common battery.
OP has already wasted a bunch of time, he could probably make it a one stop shop and likely be back on the road.
What's his time worth ??? The lengths some folks will go to save $10-15 and be off the road astounds me.
People try to help, people offer advice, people ignore advice - how's that balling ?F-n ballers in this thread.
How is it I’m ignoring your advice? I mean if it’s me you’re addressing.People try to help, people offer advice, people ignore advice - how's that balling ?
Or just go to your local motorcycle shop, get the old one checked and go from there.
KLR uses a YB14L-A2 which is a very common battery.
OP has already wasted a bunch of time, he could probably make it a one stop shop and likely be back on the road.
What's his time worth ??? The lengths some folks will go to save $10-15 and be off the road astounds me.
I was referring to Lightcycle, not you.How is it I’m ignoring your advice? I mean if it’s me you’re addressing.
I’ve not had time to dig into it
Ohh that guy, yeah he is a bit of a trouble makerI was referring to Lightcycle, not you.
Don't trust him with any advice either.Ohh that guy, yeah he is a bit of a trouble maker
I'm not assuming the battery is bad. I know the battery is bad based on the information that has been provided and my 19 years of being paid to repair vehicles as a licensed technician.You're basically making the same argument as me, but you're assuming the battery is dead whereas I'm assuming it isn't. In over 40 years I've never seen a battery that was working fine one day then suddenly become a "sponge" and soak up enough voltage from the regulator to materially affect the reading. All bets are off if you pick one up from the dumpster that's been sitting for a decade.
I'm suggesting some very quick and easy tests that disconnects the battery, so it doesn't matter what condition it's in. It takes a few minutes to unplug the R/R connector to get an AC reading. How long does it take to remove the battery, drive it to CT where they always tell you it's dead, return and reinstall it? And even if you ordered one online, are you just going to stare at the bike while you're waiting for it to arrive?
Explain this to me, today the bike is seeing 14.2 and battery started the bike. GremlinsI'm not assuming the battery is bad. I know the battery is bad based on the information that has been provided and my 19 years of being paid to repair vehicles as a licensed technician.
But hey, fire the parts cannon at the bike and see if you can wound it.
I didn’t trickle the battery, it fired up and was charging, probably when the rectifier gets hot it doesn’t work properly14.2V isn't the battery, that's the charging system. And if you've just pulled the battery off the trickle charger, of course it'll start your bike no problem, even if it is bad.
I'm not a licensed technician, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...
Everything must be fine then. Ride on.Explain this to me, today the bike is seeing 14.2 and battery started the bike. Gremlins
I'm not assuming the battery is bad. I know the battery is bad based on the information that has been provided and my 19 years of being paid to repair vehicles as a licensed technician.
But hey, fire the parts cannon at the bike and see if you can wound it.