arogal
Well-known member
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Yamaha R3 Tire Recommendations
- Thread starter arogal
- Start date
Did you actually measure sag or just set it based on others advise? Preload has nothing to do with ride comfort it has to do with where your suspension rides in it's travel range. Unless you got a tape measure out and actually measured the sag correctly saying 5 is perfect means nothing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF86AvK2XVA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF86AvK2XVA
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arogal
Well-known member
I am not sure how to measure sag, but I was going by what hundreds of R3 riders on the forum advised. I will research on how to measure sag do that.
frekeyguy
Well-known member
The bias-ply cost less.....so one choice would be to with the radial version.
frekeyguy
Well-known member
No problem - i try to be as helpful as possible
Whats your reasoning behing sticking with the 140 rear ?
the 150 would offer you more choice
I would highly suggest you look into sport touring tires because of your commute. You will never be near the traction limit on sport touring tires on the street.
The difference in mileage, from what I found, was 6k-8k (rear, sport) to 20k-30k (rear, sport touring). The range is based on how aggressive you're riding, and how much you want to push it. I change my tires once they square but at one point would ride until the marker was gone. Some people go down to the steel.
Had no problems with "spirited riding" with sport tourings either. You'll never heat the tires up badly enough that you'll lose grip on the street unless you're doing something that should be done on the race track.
The difference in mileage, from what I found, was 6k-8k (rear, sport) to 20k-30k (rear, sport touring). The range is based on how aggressive you're riding, and how much you want to push it. I change my tires once they square but at one point would ride until the marker was gone. Some people go down to the steel.
Had no problems with "spirited riding" with sport tourings either. You'll never heat the tires up badly enough that you'll lose grip on the street unless you're doing something that should be done on the race track.
Also, just fyi...
For suspension.... the bike is NOT good for 230lbs on setting #7....maybe 190lbs to set proper sag. I installed this https://calsport.co.uk/yamaha-yzf-r...sion/hyperpro-shocks-and-springs/SB-YA03-0AB/ Well worth the money.
For suspension.... the bike is NOT good for 230lbs on setting #7....maybe 190lbs to set proper sag. I installed this https://calsport.co.uk/yamaha-yzf-r...sion/hyperpro-shocks-and-springs/SB-YA03-0AB/ Well worth the money.
arogal
Well-known member
My friend had a size larger on the rear of his Katana and hates how rounded steeply rounded the sidewall is compared to how his stock size was. Had the bike for 13 years and tried a larger tire last year....went back to stock size.
-D-
Banned
You are sounding like a major fail.
You were told what sag is, then you admit you don't know what it is or made effort to look it up.
You were told the benefits of the 150 rear then you reply with this asinine response comparing an apple and a brick.
And you want to ride spirited, stick to a skateboard.
(1) Who cares what it looks like, what counts is how well it works. Is the steering feel and feedback and turn-in response correct, is bump compliance acceptable, etc.
(2) The width of the tire is a "nominal" number. What matters more is what range of rim width the tire was designed to fit. In the specifications for the tire, the recommended range of rim sizes is given. Not all tires of nominal width "X" are actually width "X" when actually installed on a rim, either.
(3) A Yamaha R3 is not a Katana.
(4) Good sport-touring tires nowadays will match or outperform DOT race tires from not all that many years ago. I know people to have dragged their knee at Deals Gap on Michelin Pilot Road 3 tires (good sport-touring tire). I know one rider who was hard to keep up with on ancient Michelin Macadams.
(5) Your bike was built to a price. The stock tires were chosen to meet a price point. It appears that they are bias-ply tires (cheaper). Good sport-touring tires of radial construction (take your pick) should be a good match to your mix of commuting and some sport riding. They should steer better and ride better AND last longer. Whether the rear tire is a 140 or 150 width is the least of your concerns as long as your rim width is within the recommended range for that tire, whatever that tire happens to be.
arogal
Well-known member
1. I read what sag was and I was going by what all the people on the R3 forums were suggesting... I never got legit measurements for weight. I am no expert, or I would have not asked. Like I said, I will do my research to see exactly how much sag is needed. Have a drink.
2. Once again I am no pro in this field, cars one thing, bikes another, I'm new to them. He felt that when he had the 160 on his rear that it was going to back out when leaning low, where he did not get that feeling with the smaller 150.
3.I will not get a skateboard, it has 4 wheels. If anything I'd go back to a bicycle which has 2.
4. Does "D" stand for d*ick or douchb*g because you definitely come off as both.
5. I am just looking for an answer and you always troll the forums and have some bullshi*t to say. Cheer up bello
arogal
Well-known member
Thanks for the positive critisism. Maybe my friend was wrong and it was all in his head. I will consider the 150s as there is much more choice of tire
bigpoppa
Well-known member
Welcome to the interwebs. Anonymity makes them feel strong.
Until they get some of that back about their 'track bike' theyre trying to sell, then they start whining lmao
Ride the tires into the ground and don't be
worried about plugs if the tire pressure is holding.
http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-v-strom-discussion/359098-tire-question-re-plug-replace.html
If the plug is not leaking early on it is not likely to as they vulcanize to the tire.
Nothing wrong with Pilot Street....get some distance before you get tire fussy and it's a commuting tire which you are doing.
Spend money on a TPMS if you want a security blanket and you'll see how the change in pressure as the tires warm up happens....and can feel that riding. If you over inflated the bike will get squirrelly and that may be exactly what your "not planted" feeling it about.
worried about plugs if the tire pressure is holding.
http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-v-strom-discussion/359098-tire-question-re-plug-replace.html
If the plug is not leaking early on it is not likely to as they vulcanize to the tire.
Nothing wrong with Pilot Street....get some distance before you get tire fussy and it's a commuting tire which you are doing.
Spend money on a TPMS if you want a security blanket and you'll see how the change in pressure as the tires warm up happens....and can feel that riding. If you over inflated the bike will get squirrelly and that may be exactly what your "not planted" feeling it about.
I did some digging. The R3 has a 17x4.5 rear rim size. A 140-width rear tire is actually narrow-ish for a rim of that width. 150 would be the normally recommended tire width for a rim of that width. I have the same rim size on the rear of my race bike and I use a 160 without issues.
arogal
Well-known member
Ya I've been doing some digging also. I read that if I am running 140/70/17 at the moment and I move up to a 150 it needs to be 150/65/17 or 150/60/17 to keep the tire the same diameter and circumference. Does that make sense? This way my speedometer will still be in synch with the rotation.
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sempre1
Well-known member
That's correct i went 150/60 - but still to keep the stock geometry of the bike would be better to raise the front forks a few millimeters, very easy to do
Theoretical rolling diameter of the 140/70-17 is 628mm (140 x 0.7 x 2 + 17 x 25.4).
Theoretical rolling diameter of 150/60-17 is 613mm, about 2.5% smaller.
I've never seen a 150/65-17 but if you could find one, it would be almost bang-on.
150/70-17 would be 642mm, about 2.2% bigger than the stock tire.
Your speedometer error is more than 2.5% even with the stock tires ... this is not really a problem.
Traction control systems can be fussy about small differences in rolling diameter, but your bike doesn't have that.
Theoretical rolling diameter of 150/60-17 is 613mm, about 2.5% smaller.
I've never seen a 150/65-17 but if you could find one, it would be almost bang-on.
150/70-17 would be 642mm, about 2.2% bigger than the stock tire.
Your speedometer error is more than 2.5% even with the stock tires ... this is not really a problem.
Traction control systems can be fussy about small differences in rolling diameter, but your bike doesn't have that.
I usually go with an overall diameter within 3% to OE spec. Car or bike.
Gotta remember that motorcycle tires have different profiles too. That alone can make more of an impact than width.
Gotta remember that motorcycle tires have different profiles too. That alone can make more of an impact than width.
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