I don't think temperature matters. The term winterizing can be replaced with "short term storage". All the procedures are the same.
Leave them a box of warfarin. Open or not, they're going to tear right into it.other than maybe some grass seed I don't know what's there for them to eat.
Warfarin is corn meal. Flagrant false advertising.Leave them a box of warfarin. Open or not, they're going to tear right into it.
I live in a 1st floor apartment building. I don't trust my basement because it might get stolen down there, in the summer I park my bike in my balcony and cover it with a blanket, but in winter there's no option in either choice. I don't want my new bike exposed to -20C nights for months.Now that my garage is heated (50F) I wheel the bike in and plug in the battery tender and I'm done til spring.
Should there be more to it?
It's dumb to change the oil before mothballing your bike for 6 months. The oil loses viscosity, this is why at garages doing oil changes they tell you, either 5,000 km or 6 months, whatever comes 1st. Do it when you take it out of storage and will be using your bike constantly. Same with gasoline. I don't add any additives to my fuel tank for hibernation, I just fill my tank with the most expensive fuel because it takes more than a year to start breaking down, unlike the regular gasoline that starts to break down after 3 months.my garage isnt heated but it doesn't get too cold in there at all.
i clean my bike and top up the tank. some people change the oil while others just leave it and wait till the spring to do so. my bike sits on cardboard as well (dont know if it actually does anything but its basically zero effort on my part).
if you still have a carborated bike theres probably other annoying stuff.
It's dumb to change the oil before mothballing your bike for 6 months. The oil loses viscosity, this is why at garages doing oil changes they tell you, either 5,000 km or 6 months, whatever comes 1st. Do it when you take it out of storage and will be using your bike constantly. Same with gasoline. I don't add any additives to my fuel tank for hibernation, I just fill my tank with the most expensive fuel because it takes more than a year to start breaking down, unlike the regular gasoline that starts to break down after 3 months.
It's dumb to change the oil before mothballing your bike for 6 months. The oil loses viscosity, this is why at garages doing oil changes they tell you, either 5,000 km or 6 months, whatever comes 1st. Do it when you take it out of storage and will be using your bike constantly. Same with gasoline. I don't add any additives to my fuel tank for hibernation, I just fill my tank with the most expensive fuel because it takes more than a year to start breaking down, unlike the regular gasoline that starts to break down after 3 months.
It's dumb to change the oil before mothballing your bike for 6 months. The oil loses viscosity, this is why at garages doing oil changes they tell you, either 5,000 km or 6 months, whatever comes 1st. Do it when you take it out of storage and will be using your bike constantly. Same with gasoline. I don't add any additives to my fuel tank for hibernation, I just fill my tank with the most expensive fuel because it takes more than a year to start breaking down, unlike the regular gasoline that starts to break down after 3 months.
First of all, this is not my opinion, my mechanic told me this, also I have a question for you; how many catastrophic engine failures have taken place or how much percentage of motorcycles end up in the junkyard because of acid eating your rabbit and shell bearings? C'mon, nice fear-mongering there. I'm sure high-grade fuel is better to have in your tank than regular fuel if you are not going to use fuel stabilizer. I trust high-grade fuel more than regular fuel for 6-months storage.The reason you change the oil BEFORE you store a bike is: One of the tasks of motor oil is to emulsify or carry away the by products of combustion. Some of those by-products are salts and water. When you mix salts and water you get acid. Acid eats metal, particularly it eats soft metals, like the babbit that lines shell bearings.
When the motor runs regularly these acids aren't much of a concern, as they flow around, mixed with the oil and don't "sit" on the bearings.
When you park your bike, and don't circulate the oil, these acids sit on the bearings causing erosion of the bearing surface, accelerating wear.
New oil doesn't contain these acids.
So that means it is SMART to change the oil before mothballing your bike.
Oil viscosity DOES NOT break down with time... you may notice there is no "best before" date on a litre of oil. Most viscosity loss is due to sheer.
You change your oil on a time table because oil is hygroscopic, meaning oil will absorb moisture from the atmosphere.
Oil will last virtually forever if you keep it in a sealed container. Your crankcase is NOT a sealed container.
Same with gasoline.
ANY AND ALL gasoline starts to break down the INSTANT it hits air. It doesn't matter what grade or brand, the moment it is exposed to air the aromatics start to evaporate.
The fuel tank on your bike is vented to atmosphere so it's NOT a good place to store gas.
One of the ingredients of Stabil (and the like) is soap, that floats to the top of the fuel, forming a barrier to the atmosphere, hopefully keeping the aromatics from evaporating.
Anything else you want to be wrong about Peggy?
I don't think temperature matters. The term winterizing can be replaced with "short term storage". All the procedures are the same.
The problem is you have based your opinions on feelings not science (and the science doesn't support your feelings).First of all, this is not my opinion, my mechanic told me this, also I have a question for you; how many catastrophic engine failures have taken place or how much percentage of motorcycles end up in the junkyard because of acid eating your rabbit and shell bearings? C'mon, nice fear-mongering there. I'm sure high-grade fuel is better to have in your tank than regular fuel if you are not going to use fuel stabilizer. I trust high-grade fuel more than regular fuel for 6-months storage.
I don't know man, I wouldn't trust -20 C temps on my new bike being parked outside. Won't hoses and rubber fittings turn hard and crack? I didn't even left my 12-year-old bike outside in winters, I'm sure as hell NOT leaving my new Kawasaki baby outside in freezing temps.