Whose running Bridgestone bt-016 tires?

Forum Sponsor
Brian P said:
Reason #1 (the valid one), the tire is being used by a top level pro for whom that last 1% of grip really is necessary. (The rest of us, wouldn't know the difference and aren't fast enough for it to be an issue.)

...
Click to expand...


And you can add the difference between todays advanced supersport tires to street riders buying dedicated track only tires for their bikes.

Again, quoting a thorough test by BIKE mag, unless you are a pro racer or an extremely advanced track rider extracting and exploring the absolute limits of traction, with todays advancements in tire tech, "super sport tire is fine for the rest of us."

In their test, a "pro" rider was only able to lap the circuit, if I recall correctly, about less than 2 secs quicker than the supersports. (it was a Dunlop Sportsmart vs Dunlop D211 test)


.
 
Brian P said:
Two different reasons.

Reason #1 (the valid one), the tire is being used by a top level pro for whom that last 1% of grip really is necessary. (The rest of us, wouldn't know the difference and aren't fast enough for it to be an issue.)

Reason #2 (the imaginary one), people think the tire is cooked even though they're not actually using its full capability. (They think there's a difference, even though in reality at the level that they're riding, there isn't.)

I have a smaller bike with less power than the average track bike. I get quite a few weekends out of a set of tires ... No tire warmers, either (don't need them) ...
Click to expand...

This brings me to my next question then. How does one determine that those tires are 'done'? It's easy enough to decide on the street when tires have reached the end of their life cycle. Either by how close they're worn to the wear bars, or if the tires are squared off from lots of boring highway riding. Clearly there's another method employed by advanced riders when it comes to determining when their tires are retired (excuse the pun ;)).
 
You can tell when a tire ridden on the track is toast. A pro will probably only use a new tire anyway so that solves that but us regualar track day riders can easily ride on a tire that they've put a few laps on or a single race (not always). I've been using scrubs all season and when I'm done with them they're done! There's no tread's left and the tire is not really round anymore (looks like it's been shaved off on the right from tmp, shannonvilles seems to wear a little more even). I usually get 2 track days from a set of scrubs. It's not really that much cheaper I don't think but the initial cost is less than running a new set.
 
stormcat said:
This brings me to my next question then. How does one determine that those tires are 'done'? It's easy enough to decide on the street when tires have reached the end of their life cycle. Either by how close they're worn to the wear bars, or if the tires are squared off from lots of boring highway riding. Clearly there's another method employed by advanced riders when it comes to determining when their tires are retired (excuse the pun ;)).
Click to expand...

If the tires have a blue film on them stay away.

Other than that just make sure they are not worn irregularly. Pirelli Diablo Supercorsas are the most common DOT race tire being used, lots of National Pro riders using them. Not sure where you live but try contacting Ben G or eastcoast gsx on this site. They should both have a good supply of them available. I believe Z1 Cycle has a pile of Alex Welsh's take offs from this season too.

Most rear race tires you can run backwards too with no ill effects, some fronts too. Since most tracks around here are clockwise they will wear the right side of the tire faster. Flipping the rear tire can give you a bit more life out of it. I fun rears backwards frequently, but the Dunlop fronts should not be run backwards but they UK tires use some sort of Voodoo and last forever so flipping is not neccessary.

If you're at a SOAR, RACE or CSBK event it's usually pretty easy to find riders selling take-offs.
 
Last edited:
Ahhh yes the blue film. I've wonderd what this is. I didin't think it was a good thing but I've ridden on a few now that have had this blue colour on them. What is it and why do I not want it? (Not trying to thread jack here just curious)
 
dricked said:
Ahhh yes the blue film. I've wonderd what this is. I didin't think it was a good thing but I've ridden on a few now that have had this blue colour on them. What is it and why do I not want it? (Not trying to thread jack here just curious)
Click to expand...

Too much or improper heat cycling will bring oils to the surface of the tire. That's the blue film you see and it usually means the tire gets harder and offers less grip.
 
My last sets of slicks, I wore out the front first. A combination of handling problems and traction control did it. Too bad as the rear had another event in it.

Reading tires is (a difficult at times) art, and I still have plenty to learn ... Blue contamination means the tire was overheated or sat in varying temperatures ... Or both ... Or neither ... It could be old or sat in a frozen area through the winter. Ymmv


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.230217,-76.481499
 
stormcat said:
This brings me to my next question then. How does one determine that those tires are 'done'? It's easy enough to decide on the street when tires have reached the end of their life cycle. Either by how close they're worn to the wear bars, or if the tires are squared off from lots of boring highway riding. Clearly there's another method employed by advanced riders when it comes to determining when their tires are retired (excuse the pun ;)).
Click to expand...

Same reason that I have determined that the slicks on my race bike were trashed in today's GTAM track day ... the rear started sliding when applying power on corner exits. Going sideways instead of gripping, under situations where it ought not to be sliding, means the tire is done.

Plenty of rubber left on the tire. It's just not doing what I want it to do any more.
 
caboose483 said:
If the tires have a blue film on them stay away. .
Click to expand...

caboose483 said:
Too much or improper heat cycling will bring oils to the surface of the tire. That's the blue film you see and it usually means the tire gets harder and offers less grip.
Click to expand...


I believe this to be incorrect.

According to Steve Brubaker, Dunlop Tire rep/distributer for racers in the US, the Blue is "normal".

See Post 4 :

http://forums.superbikeschool.com/index.php?showtopic=2598&st=0&p=21092&#entry21092




 
Last edited:
Well now that this thread is back from the dead, what pressure are you all running front/rear? I'm not going to name names, but a certain shop that did my install dangerously over inflated my front and under inflated my rear tire. I'm running tubes in my set and front was inflated to 49 PSI (cold). Sidewall for the front is 42! I was having front end wobble at 120, checked, cursed myself for not checking sooner, and backed off the pressure to 40. It's lessened, if not completely gone now
 
SunnY S said:
Again, quoting a thorough test by BIKE mag, unless you are a pro racer or an extremely advanced track rider extracting and exploring the absolute limits of traction, with todays advancements in tire tech, "super sport tire is fine for the rest of us."

.
Click to expand...

LOLz, u clearly do not know who Brian is. He's got a few awards hangin from his wall from racing and I would not dis-credit his input.

...and YES I do have a man-crush for him :rolleyes:
 
espro said:
Well now that this thread is back from the dead, what pressure are you all running front/rear? I'm not going to name names, but a certain shop that did my install dangerously over inflated my front and under inflated my rear tire. I'm running tubes in my set and front was inflated to 49 PSI (cold). Sidewall for the front is 42! I was having front end wobble at 120, checked, cursed myself for not checking sooner, and backed off the pressure to 40. It's lessened, if not completely gone now
Click to expand...
Don't have them anymore, but I would start at 30-30 front-rear and work from there. Running 40psi+ is just going to help you crash in the colder weather and wear out the middle of the tire super quick.

My Power Pures are at 28-26 right now but that's still from a Calabogie track day.
 
N3WMAN said:
Don't have them anymore, but I would start at 30-30 front-rear and work from there. Running 40psi+ is just going to help you crash in the colder weather and wear out the middle of the tire super quick.

My Power Pures are at 28-26 right now but that's still from a Calabogie track day.
Click to expand...

Work up to higher pressure, or down to lower? If that's the case running 40+, why are does the manufacturer recommend 42?
 
espro said:
Work up to higher pressure, or down to lower? If that's the case running 40+, why are does the manufacturer recommend 42?
Click to expand...

Manufacturers of bikes and tire makers always "recommend" higher pressures. The lawyers make them do this.

They have no idea how heavy you are, if you have a pillion, luggage, etc. So the safe bet is to recommend a one-size-pressure-fits-all, and its usually high. Say, 42r/36f.

For solo sport riding on the street........ a good starting point would be 36r/32f. Start with that and experiment from there.

Having said that, always check your own tire pressures frequently, and use a good quality gauge.

.
Forum Sponsor
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom