Where did you learn to maintain your bike?

Did you buy the stand from that site? Or is there any B&M store I can check it out?

Yeah, I did purchased online from KapscoMoto.

Don't forget to use the coupon with your order!

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What I need to learn how to do is a valve check. It's tough for someone who has never done it before because generally it involves removing the fuel tank though some people said they swivel it to the side. Then the feeler gauges, a lot of people talked about bending them in order to get them into the tight spot.
 
Then the feeler gauges, a lot of people talked about bending them in order to get them into the tight spot.

When I tried to bend mine, they snapped. I found a trick; lay a screwdriver on the feeler guage where you want the bend and smack it with a hammer... a few times. Creates a nice, solid bend, no snapping.
 
the 3/8 drive measure in in/lb, get the 1/2 drive thats foot/lb you can torque to higher #s... i think the chain adjustment needs 53 or something. get a breaker bar too. breaker bar to break, torque to tighten.

i also have rear paddle stand by venum, same one in the previous link. its good enough for a 125 but id rather a spooled one on bigger bikes.

crap im actually signed up for the course on sept 21. wtf. that might be a waste of a day for me
 
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Ok it turns out my dad has the 1/2 torque wrench from Princess Auto. It *looks* cheaper than the 3/8 Mastercraft one but I'm going to try it out.

Now my question is, I bought the set of tools for 3/8 and 1/4. Can I just buy an 1/2 to 3/8 adapter so I can use my existing sockets whatever you call them? Or do I need to buy the full set of 1/2,3/8,1/4 tool set...?
 
yep, buy the adapters as you need, just make sure the torque numbers are in the right range and be careful with your torque wrenches, do not drop them or bang them around or they will get out of spec real fast. Also get yourself a service manual for your bike, I have a Honda as well and there are 2 manuals you should get. First is the General Service manual and the other is the Service manual that's particular to your bike.
As others have said, do not force your bolts whether tightening or loosening. Many of the small bolts only use about 15 +- ft/lbs of torque (basically about a quarter turn more than hand tighten) so don't be wrenching on your bolts as you'll strip them.

Oil changes are pretty simple, but as mentioned do not over tighten the drain bolt I don't know how many times i've come across bolts that are way over tight, there's enough stories of people stripping the bolt out of the oil pan. Use your torque wrench and note how much pressure is actually needed you will be surprised. Same will apply to your rear axle bolt as well though these tend to be higher torque of course +- 75 ft/lbs.

Next take a look at your screw heads(look like a Phillips-cross shaped slots) when you are servicing your bike. If there is a tiny dot imprinted on the head you have JIS screws (Japanese International Standard). They are similar to a Phillips but are not, if you use a Phillips they will strip very easily. In the absence of a JIS specific screw driver I use a drywall bit #3 I think, these seem to have a better profile than your average Phillips bit and hold better.
 
Ok it turns out my dad has the 1/2 torque wrench from Princess Auto. It *looks* cheaper than the 3/8 Mastercraft one but I'm going to try it out.

Now my question is, I bought the set of tools for 3/8 and 1/4. Can I just buy an 1/2 to 3/8 adapter so I can use my existing sockets whatever you call them? Or do I need to buy the full set of 1/2,3/8,1/4 tool set...?

You can buy the adaptors cheap from princess. The maximum size of the sockets in your set is pretty small (19mm) while you are at princess, consider picking up a set of 1/2" sockets that get you 19mm to 30mm or so.

Be very careful with the princess torque wrenches. You get what you pay for. Try to check it against someone with a better torque wrench to make sure it's close.
 
You get what you pay for.

Sometimes you do, but sometimes things are just overpriced elsewhere. The canadian tire mastercraft wrenches have some pretty bad reviews for how expensive they are

Try to check it against someone with a better torque wrench to make sure it's close.

I bought the 3/8 last week and it's great so far. It comes with a sheet inside the box that is filled out by someone doing QC with a pen. It shows what it read during calibration at a bunch of different torque settings. Mine was only off by between 1-2 ft/lbs for the entire scale.
 
Sometimes you do, but sometimes things are just overpriced elsewhere. The canadian tire mastercraft wrenches have some pretty bad reviews for how expensive they are

I have read that about the Mastercraft ones, but the Mastercraft Maximum wrenches (the ones on sale right now) have good reviews.
 
Almost everything at ct is overpriced for the quality at full price. At their frequent 50 to 70% off prices, they are hard to beat.
 
I bought a basket case and a shop manual for my first bike. Learned as I rebuilt it lol. Tools, torque wrench (on sale at can-tire this week), decent set of sockets and hex keys/bits, and spanners, rubber mallet good screw drivers.

Basic stuff you can do, oil changes, chain adjustment, air filter.
 
Just curious, before I go ahead and put in the wrong engine oil when I do it...

My manual states the following:

API classification: SG or higher except oils labeled as energy conserving on the circular API service label
viscosity: SAE 10W-30
JSAO T 903 standard: MA

The chart also lists an arrow going rightwards with 10W-30 starting at -10 and then 10W-40 as the arrow goes right (higher heat).

Two questions:

1. Motorcycle engine oil is the same as the ones for cars? Like it just depends on the viscosity rating is what I mean?

2. What type of engine oil should I use? The manual says not to use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives. Does it matter?

EDIT: Would it just be easier to go to Honda Ready Powersports and get OEM engine oil from them? I'm guessing it would be easier that way instead of searching at Can Tire?
 
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1. Motorcycle engine oil is the same as the ones for cars? Like it just depends on the viscosity rating is what I mean?

2. What type of engine oil should I use? The manual says not to use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives. Does it matter?

EDIT: Would it just be easier to go to Honda Ready Powersports and get OEM engine oil from them? I'm guessing it would be easier that way instead of searching at Can Tire?

1. Yes, and no. Many car oils and additives that reduce friction... this is a problem if you have a bike with a wet clutch as the additives could cause your clutch to start slipping. Now if you have a car oil that doesn't have any such additives and meets the requirements, you're good to go.

2. See above.

Personally, I buy motorcycle specific oil (Motul 5100 semi-synth). Oil is a personal choice and there are boatloads of threads on here about it and even more opinions but one opinion is constant; DON'T USE CAR OIL WITH FRICTION REDUCING ADDITIVES.
 
It does say "Your motorcycle does not need oil additives. Use the recommended oil."
And not to use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives. They may adversely affect clutch operation.

So I guess its motorcycle specific oil I have to use? Motul 5100 I see is 10W40, which I suppose is better than 10W30? (more temperature tolerance?)
 
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