Where did the oil go? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Where did the oil go?

ungoloth

ungoloth

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I'm at a loss. Probably because I'm a bit emotional over this problem.
I changed the oil and filter on my 2019 Kaw ZX10R as I've done more than a few times in the past.
I drained out the oil, changed the filter, torque as required and added 3 1\2 to less than 4L of new oil. I can see the new oil in the sight glass just past the upper level indicator.
I proceeded to start the bike for a minute or so... And then noticed the oil light stayed on longer than expected, sight glass level did not change and the bike seemed to heat up sooner than expected. So I shut it off.
I thought I was an idiot and maybe forgot to remove the protective oil filter cover? Disgusted enough I walked away for a few days...
This morning I thoroughly cleaned a oil drain pan (to recover $96 worth of Amsoil), removed the oil filter and.... Nothing. As I suspected, no evidence of a protective oil filter cover but No oil drained from the engine after the filter removal, nothing in the filter and sight glass shows no level change. WTF? This never happened to me before.
Any ideas? Vapour lock?
How can I deal with this?
Happy Apexes.
 
No oil pressure, a dry filter, and building heat quickly.
The symptoms described suggest the oil pump is not pumping. Why, is the question.

*edit ok that was probably a little too panicky and worst case. I don't know if a bad filter bypass could cause this. I would start simple and replace the filter. Maybe it's a bad one and not allowing flow.
 
Last edited:
Update.
I took my Son-inlaw's (Ford mechanic) and Wind Shear's advice and installed another filter.
It just so happens that I have a stainless steel Flo, filter that I was always afraid to use. I installed said Flo after filling it with oil. Problem solved.
I won't be using Kawasaki filers again. I'm going to order a 1\2 dozen more Hiflo filters (I always used these) and replace ss filter when they come in.
After watching Fortnine video, proving paper filtration is the best, I decided to get OEM Kawasaki oil filter.
I'm not blaming Kaw (who knows who makes these things) but I know Hiflo has never failed me in the past.
Happy Apexes.
 
Did you fill the Kawasaki oil filter to the top with oil before installing, and did you do the same with the HiFlo? I've heard on some bikes, filling it right to the top can cause an air lock.
 
Quickest post then update with fix every...
Glad you sorted it out.
 
Relax said:
Did you fill the Kawasaki oil filter to the top with oil before installing, and did you do the same with the HiFlo? I've heard on some bikes, filling it right to the top can cause an air lock.
Click to expand...
In this case One is forced to be reasonable since it's installed horizontally and some oil spills out (at least a few oz) prior to sealing.
 
The gen 1 ZX10R (2004-on) is notorious for the oil pump losing prime. (I have one of these.) I didn't think the 2011-on redesign had this issue, but perhaps it does. It's not the filter's fault. You mucking about with the filter probably wiggled things around enough for the oil pump to be able to start pumping again.

If it happens again:
- Stop the engine if the oil pressure warning lamp does not go out within 2 or 3 seconds of starting the engine.
- Position your drain pan underneath the engine, and unscrew the oil filter just enough for the seal to clear the engine block. (A couple revolutions is enough.) You will probably observe that nothing comes out - because the pump is air-locked.
- Crank the engine and note whether oil comes out underneath the oil filter. If the engine starts, stop it immediately but make sure some oil comes out from the base of the oil filter. This is indicative that the pump has started pumping again (because you've given the trapped air someplace to go which has zero back pressure).
- Re-tighten the oil filter, and start the engine again. The pressure warning lamp should go out promptly.

To mostly stop it happening ... Don't have "clear air" on both the inlet and outlet of the pump ... in other words, don't both drain the oil sump and have the oil filter off. Change the oil filter first, and install the new oil filter, then drain the sump and refill it - and don't dilly-dally around leaving it sit for any longer than necessary. Drain the old oil out and insert the drain plug and refill it promptly.
 
Brian P said:
The gen 1 ZX10R (2004-on) is notorious for the oil pump losing prime. (I have one of these.) I didn't think the 2011-on redesign had this issue, but perhaps it does. It's not the filter's fault. You mucking about with the filter probably wiggled things around enough for the oil pump to be able to start pumping again.

If it happens again:
- Stop the engine if the oil pressure warning lamp does not go out within 2 or 3 seconds of starting the engine.
- Position your drain pan underneath the engine, and unscrew the oil filter just enough for the seal to clear the engine block. (A couple revolutions is enough.) You will probably observe that nothing comes out - because the pump is air-locked.
- Crank the engine and note whether oil comes out underneath the oil filter. If the engine starts, stop it immediately but make sure some oil comes out from the base of the oil filter. This is indicative that the pump has started pumping again (because you've given the trapped air someplace to go which has zero back pressure).
- Re-tighten the oil filter, and start the engine again. The pressure warning lamp should go out promptly.

To mostly stop it happening ... Don't have "clear air" on both the inlet and outlet of the pump ... in other words, don't both drain the oil sump and have the oil filter off. Change the oil filter first, and install the new oil filter, then drain the sump and refill it - and don't dilly-dally around leaving it sit for any longer than necessary. Drain the old oil out and insert the drain plug and refill it promptly.
Click to expand...

That doesn’t sound very fun. Can’t say I have ever encountered such issues. A few V8 rebuilds I would prime the pump but never any air locks.
This is common on the Kawi I4s? I’m trying to visualize how it happens and where, no venting to cure it?
 
If you have the filter off together with having the sump empty, oil siphons out through the inherent clearances in the gears. Oil pump sits above the level of the oil in the sump so it doesn't self prime, and air isn't viscous enough for the pump to pump it.
 
Brian P said:
The gen 1 ZX10R (2004-on) is notorious for the oil pump losing prime. (I have one of these.) I didn't think the 2011-on redesign had this issue, but perhaps it does. It's not the filter's fault. You mucking about with the filter probably wiggled things around enough for the oil pump to be able to start pumping again.

If it happens again:
- Stop the engine if the oil pressure warning lamp does not go out within 2 or 3 seconds of starting the engine.
- Position your drain pan underneath the engine, and unscrew the oil filter just enough for the seal to clear the engine block. (A couple revolutions is enough.) You will probably observe that nothing comes out - because the pump is air-locked.
- Crank the engine and note whether oil comes out underneath the oil filter. If the engine starts, stop it immediately but make sure some oil comes out from the base of the oil filter. This is indicative that the pump has started pumping again (because you've given the trapped air someplace to go which has zero back pressure).
- Re-tighten the oil filter, and start the engine again. The pressure warning lamp should go out promptly.

To mostly stop it happening ... Don't have "clear air" on both the inlet and outlet of the pump ... in other words, don't both drain the oil sump and have the oil filter off. Change the oil filter first, and install the new oil filter, then drain the sump and refill it - and don't dilly-dally around leaving it sit for any longer than necessary. Drain the old oil out and insert the drain plug and refill it promptly.
Click to expand...
Heard of this happening recently on a current track zx-10 after an off....

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