What to loctite and what not | GTAMotorcycle.com

What to loctite and what not

Corsara

Corsara

Well-known member
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Due to my recent nightmare which led to the destruction of one of the calipers and a lot of lost time due to me putting loctite on the bolts, I wish if we could compile a quick lookup list of general things to put blue/red loctite or nothing at all. I know it's all written in the service manuals, but I personally have a PDF scanned version that is not even searchable, and it's a pain to look up the procedures every time I want to do something. I've already assembled a torque specs table for my bike, but I missed to include what to loctite and what not.

I'll keep updating the list if this thread picks up. So, let me start the list, it should be more or less the same for all bikes:

NO LOCTITE:

Caliper mounting bolts
Front sprocket retaining nut

BLUE LOCTITE:

Bar ends
Motor mount hardware
Subframe mounting hardware
Rearset mounting hardware
Rotor bolts
Swingarm spools

RED LOCTITE:

Nowhere
 
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Blue loctite on motor mount hardware, subframe mounting hardware, rearset mounting hardware, rotor bolts and swingarm spools. I think thats it. No red anywhere.
 
I know about your problems with the caliper however I always use blue on the caliper bolts.
 
caboose483 said:
Blue loctite on motor mount hardware, subframe mounting hardware, rearset mounting hardware, rotor bolts and swingarm spools. I think thats it. No red anywhere.
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Coming from you, it's trustworthy info. List updated, thanks.

coyo said:
I know about your problems with the caliper however I always use blue on the caliper bolts.
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I'll just safety wire those from now on.
 
How about the front sprocket retaining nut? Is the bent washer thingy enough?
 
caboose483 said:
Absolutely not. Loctite may lead to headaches down the road should you wish to remove the front sprocket.
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Damnit...i think I put blue on it last time I changed it.. :( I'm probably looking at another nightmare soon!
 
Corsara said:
Damnit...i think I put blue on it last time I changed it.. :( I'm probably looking at another nightmare soon!
Click to expand...

You just installed a new sprocket? Go remove the nut before it has been ridden and heat cycled repeatedly. Clean the threads and reinstall.
 
Ive never had a problem using blue on anything, including front caliper bolts. Your problem is most likely due to over tightening rather then the loctite ...Front caliper bolts are generally in the 25ft/lbs range for tightness spec...The breaking point for a M10 bolt with blue loctite is listed at only 71 to 168 lb·in....If you tighten the bolt properly without over torquing it, there is no reason blue loctite should make it that hard to remove it as 168 in/lbs is only 14ft/lbs

Heat reduces the breaking point of loctite, so if your ever worried about it just use a heat gun to heat it a bit before loosening...
 
JohnnyP636 said:
Ive never had a problem using blue on anything, including front caliper bolts. Your problem is most likely due to over tightening rather then the loctite ...Front caliper bolts are generally in the 25ft/lbs range for tightness spec...The breaking point for a M10 bolt with blue loctite is listed at only 71 to 168 lb·in....If you tighten the bolt properly without over torquing it, there is no reason blue loctite should make it that hard to remove it as 168 in/lbs is only 14ft/lbs

Heat reduces the breaking point of loctite, so if your ever worried about it just use a heat gun to heat it a bit before loosening...
Click to expand...

Agreed...Also if it is such a big issue then why does my factory service manual say it's required? I'll continue using it where it is recommended according to Honda.
 
caboose483 said:
You just installed a new sprocket? Go remove the nut before it has been ridden and heat cycled repeatedly. Clean the threads and reinstall.
Click to expand...

Oh no, I wish. I installed the said sprocket (530 pitch) with loctite in mid summer, had a few track days on it since then. I'm going to be installing a new one, same number teeth but 520 pitch soon. I guess it's time to dust off that impact driver I've got and almost never use... :(

JohnnyP636 said:
Ive never had a problem using blue on anything, including front caliper bolts. Your problem is most likely due to over tightening rather then the loctite ...Front caliper bolts are generally in the 25ft/lbs range for tightness spec...The breaking point for a M10 bolt with blue loctite is listed at only 71 to 168 lb·in....If you tighten the bolt properly without over torquing it, there is no reason blue loctite should make it that hard to remove it as 168 in/lbs is only 14ft/lbs

Heat reduces the breaking point of loctite, so if your ever worried about it just use a heat gun to heat it a bit before loosening...
Click to expand...

yeah, I had it overtightened for sure. No more---I'm going with the specs from now on on everything! Also no loctite either, personal choice. Will safety wire everything that makes me uncomfortable from now on.
 
Corsara said:
Oh no, I wish. I installed the said sprocket (530 pitch) with loctite in mid summer, had a few track days on it since then. I'm going to be installing a new one, same number teeth but 520 pitch soon. I guess it's time to dust off that impact driver I've got and almost never use... :(

yeah, I had it overtightened for sure. No more---I'm going with the specs from now on on everything! Also no loctite either, personal choice. Will safety wire everything that makes me uncomfortable from now on.
Click to expand...

If the FSM says it's required then the torque specs they give you have taken the loctite into consideration. The torque values will change if you do not use it....just a heads up.
 
rbjeepthing said:
If the FSM says it's required then the torque specs they give you have taken the loctite into consideration. The torque values will change if you do not use it....just a heads up.
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Thats sound advice, greasing bolts will change the spec setting also.
 
I know the OP is complaining about having a non-searchable service manual and doesn't want to use it ... BUT ... For critical fasteners, there is really no choice.

If the book says to use non-permanent locking agent, then use blue Loctite.
If the book says to use molybdenum based oil, then use the silver antiseize compound (which is MoS2 suspended in oil).
If the book says to apply oil to the threads then tighten to 20 N.m followed by tightening 150 degrees further, then do that.
If the book says nothing, then use the default torque specification (it's in the book - there is a chart relating fastener size to torque setting) and assemble the fasteners dry.
 
I use blue loctite on almost every bolt I remove and replace on my bike, except cosmetic stuff and fasteners that get taken out regularly, like seat bolts, oil drain plug, etc. Gives peace of mind.

Red loctite is usually only used on engine internals when doing a rebuild.
 
Lol at red loctite.I work in hydraulics and red loctite is commonly used on hydraulic cylinder pistons.With a 2" cylinder rod,we use a 3ft wrench with a 4ft pipe on it for leverage after heating with a torch (oxy acet) for 5 minutes.Tough stuff!
Most people use way too much loctite.A little drop goes a long way.
 
My Opinion:
-----------

NO LOCTITE:

Flaring bolts / plastic fasteners
Where cotter pins are used (might not need it, but it doesnt hurt to use)

BLUE LOCTITE:

Everywhere
-CRITICAL BOLTS like caliper bolts, fork pinch bolts, etc - a MUST
- Sprocket nuts

RED LOCTITE:

Nowhere
 
loctite isn't nessary on jap bikes, only harley's need it. if you don't trust your work,use it
 
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