Why not check valve clearance while you are right there already? It doesn't take much time on most bikes once they are exposed (but I haven't done a ducati). They probably don't need changed but it gives you a data point for next time.
What did you do in your garage today..?
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If his Monster is anything like my Scrambler...the belts are fairly easy. But to get to the valves you need to start ripping apart the top end (i.e.: remove gas tank) and is much more involved.
Belts for my Scrambler were fairly simple in comparison. I just did it at Ken's simply because he was doing the valves so may as well just do it while the bike is at the hands of a professional.
pecan_choco_hurricane
Active member
I use Google docs so I can access it anywhere. I can easily switch between phone and computer as it auto saves and updates changes.
I'm replacing fork seals the first time and Im worried I'll mess it up even with several yt videos lol.
Best decade ever!
Gaoler
Well-known member
1986... On my way out the door to my Joy Division cover band audition...
..wearing a skinny tie.
In the garage today..? 'Looking for my %#@*&! snow shovel...!
Wait til the morning. It’ll be melted by then.1986... On my way out the door to my Joy Division cover band audition...
..wearing a skinny tie.
View attachment 73222
In the garage today..? 'Looking for my %#@*&! snow shovel...!
PacoT
Well-known member
I don't have the appropriate tools, and I'm scared of leaving the engine open at night in the open air.
Here's an update on my timing belt task: The probability of succeeding or failing is 50/50 right now. I've refitted the new bells, but for some reason, the vertical belt cover is not seating properly. I'm assuming I haven't put something back quite right. I will go through my pictures and video to possibly identify where the error is.
PacoT
Well-known member
Today, I finally wrapped up replacing the timing belts on my Monster.*I don't have the appropriate tools, and I'm scared of leaving the engine open at night in the open air.
Here's an update on my timing belt task: The probability of succeeding or failing is 50/50 right now. I've refitted the new bells, but for some reason, the vertical belt cover is not seating properly. I'm assuming I haven't put something back quite right. I will go through my pictures and video to possibly identify where the error is.
*Pros:**
- I saved a bunch of cash by doing it myself.
- I love working on my bikes and learn something new.
**Cons:**
- I ended up putting in over 10 hours on a NAKED bike! A couple of years back, I thought about buying a cheap Multistrada to do the belt service myself. After this experience, I can’t help but think it would have taken me a full week to swap out the timing belts on that one.
EDIT: I had a big, scary moment at the beginning of the test ride. I turned on the bike, and everything sounded fine. As I started to accelerate slowly, trying to notice if anything felt off, I moved ahead a few meters, and the bike died on me. I thought maybe I had released the clutch too quickly. I turned on the bike again, but the same thing happened two more times. The worst thoughts crossed my mind.I then tried to put the bike in neutral, but I couldn’t pull the lever up. Then I remembered that I had put the bike in 6th gear the day before to see if it would make it easier to spin the engine. Unfortunately, this old Ducati doesn't have a gear indicator. I felt foolish. I pushed the gear selector all the way down, turned on the bike again, and everything went smoothly afterward.
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I had to take the front fairing off my GoldWing once for something. That was a big job just to get access to the job.
Relax
Well-known member
What was the problem with the cover not fitting?
As for bodywork removal, wait until you try a Honda. I recall having to start by removing the tail fairing to get the front fairing off on the CBR.
Wrapped up my desmo service today. Swapped 10/16 shims because why not. New belts. Replaced fuel filter since the tank was coming off.
Priller
Well-known member
I reinstalled the wheels on the Griso today after getting some new shoes. Ended up getting a set of Metzeler Roadtec 01 SE's from Revco installed at Pro 6 for $55/ea. I'd love to say the single-sided shaft drive made rear wheel install easy, but it was quite a faff, actually. Still easier than messing with a chain and swingarm adjusters, but much harder than the SSSA on my Hawk GT from back in the day.
So after torquing it all down and going for the first (very short, about a half hour) ride of the year, I returned to also change the oil. Got the old stuff out, and removed the oil filter, only to discover it's twice the size of the two filters the seller provided as 'freebies' in the sale. So no new oil in, and off to try and find a filter tomorrow. At least I know as much of the old oil as possible is going to have drained out!
So after torquing it all down and going for the first (very short, about a half hour) ride of the year, I returned to also change the oil. Got the old stuff out, and removed the oil filter, only to discover it's twice the size of the two filters the seller provided as 'freebies' in the sale. So no new oil in, and off to try and find a filter tomorrow. At least I know as much of the old oil as possible is going to have drained out!
PacoT
Well-known member
The position of the movable belt tensioner was not adequate (thingy circled in green in the photo).
I struggled a lot with getting the correct tension for both belts. In the case of the vertical cylinder, first, I tried positioning the tensioner up, but the hertz measurement was not accurate, so then I moved it across its range of motion and found that by placing it at the bottom, I was getting the correct tension. However, the nut did not align with the crevice on the cover. I only realized that after seeing the photos I took before disassembling.
How did you measure your shims? If I remember correctly, you need some adaptors or some fancy tool for this, right?
Careful with your tensioner orientation. Good thing you struggled and changed it because the correct orientation of the tensioner is “up” or tensioned towards the cams. Going the other way closes the gap between the tensioner and idler pulleys and risks the belt teeth rubbing against each other and chewing itself apart.
If you did the horizontal belt that way change it back asap.
How did you find tensioning? I used the Gates Carbon Drive app on my iphone and it worked very well to get the right frequency. On my air cooled Monster i found setting by frequency was WAY too tight - especially the vertical cylinder which heat expanded a lot and I started getting strange bearing whine until i backed it off.
i bought a shim kit from Desmotimes/EMS Duc that included a shim measuring tool (really only required for the closer shims)
Relax
Well-known member
The nut will always be in the same position since the stud doesn't move - it's the eccentric hub of the pulley that rotates. I've heard stories of the tensioner being installed off-center, so maybe you got "lucky" and the cover wouldn't fit over the misaligned pulley, preventing you from starting the motor and chewing up your belt. This happened to my 998 when I let a Detroit dealership (and Ducati's "Best Service Department in the Midwest") do the belts on my 998 when I bought it and needed a place to leave it for 72 hours before importing it to Canada.
Priller
Well-known member
Thanks for that! Have bookmarked for later reference. Nobody nearby had one that I needed (not much Guzzi support in Hamilton!), but gritted my teeth and found what I needed on Amazon, delivery this afternoon. I want to hate Amazon so much, but the convenience is very hard to walk away from.
It's a honking massive filter, way bigger than any I've needed on my other bikes. First time I've needed to use the biggest setting on my Fram oil filter wrench. I guess having 10w-60 oil and the bike being partly oil cooled (complete with oil cooler) has something to do with it...
