What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 154 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

Changed the rusted out oil pan on the old RAM, just buttoned her up before dinner.

This one was a chore. Drop frame cross member, drop torque converter inspection plate, drop the front diff, pull drinker side motor mount, drop pan, drop sump pickup, drop windage tray. Found out the windage tray can’t be reused, thank the lord for Amazon who got the part here before my morning coffee.

Twisted off a pan bolt in the block, extraction took hours.

I’m getting too old to work on modern cars. — too tight, too much wire and electrical stuff. If I replace this it will be with a restored 70s pickup.
 
I guess I was to tough on my compressor hose. I never liked the coiled line anyway. Off to PA
Yes it's a Crappy Tire compressor and line, just good enough for tires.

View attachment 64955

View attachment 64956

I actually still use the 1/4" nylon coiled hose I bought with my first compressor back in the 90's. It's very convenient for attaching to an air pig to fill up the tires. One day I got a 1/2" impact gun and found it wasn't able to loosen anything, that's when I realized I need to upgrade to at least a 3/8" hose. Here's a video where they show the actual losses/gains:

 
I actually still use the 1/4" nylon coiled hose I bought with my first compressor back in the 90's. It's very convenient for attaching to an air pig to fill up the tires. One day I got a 1/2" impact gun and found it wasn't able to loosen anything, that's when I realized I need to upgrade to at least a 3/8" hose. Here's a video where they show the actual losses/gains:

I have 1/4", 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 airlines. The difference in power is crazy. For most applications, I run a short 1/2" stinger off the 3/4" line as the big line is unwieldy. Upgrading to V style 1/4" QC also noticeable increases power.
 
I have 1/4", 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 airlines. The difference in power is crazy. For most applications, I run a short 1/2" stinger off the 3/4" line as the big line is unwieldy. Upgrading to V style 1/4" QC also noticeable increases power.

I was at PA the other day thinking about getting a 25' run of 1/2" to run Thor, and it was a thicker than I thought it would be. Then I saw the 3/4 and laughed.

I already have the Milton purple (V/high flow) connectors.
 
Made myself a little feeder that swings in and out for easy loading. The bush is a lilac and a year ago I had a cardinal build it's nest within 2 feet of the window.
IMG_0948.JPG
 
My 80gal oil less tossed both rods, not worth rebuilding again.

5hp Electric motor is fine, except it’s got a stubby output shaft. Not sure if I can rig up a drive pully.
 
My 80gal oil less tossed both rods, not worth rebuilding again.

5hp Electric motor is fine, except it’s got a stubby output shaft. Not sure if I can rig up a drive pully.
Keep an eye on the Ritchie brothers auctions. Tons of compressors wash through there at good prices.
 
What do you guys think about his multimeter?

I still didn't pick one up, but I have a electronics DIY project I need to work on during the break and might pick this up today.
 
What do you guys think about his multimeter?

I still didn't pick one up, but I have a electronics DIY project I need to work on during the break and might pick this up today.
I can't comment on that one specifically. Almost any multimeter is better than no multimeter. Autoranging can be a blessing or a curse, it depends how well they implemented it.

I used to like the equus from Canadian tire but I had one go off by 30% with no obvious cause. I noticed it was wrong when measuring something with a known voltage and it was way off. Threw it in the garbage. Life is too short for troubleshooting tools that give incorrect answers.

If you can stretch the budget, you can get fluke 1xx for just over 100 on marketplace and it is a buy once, cry once tool. You may want more meters in the future but you should always be able to trust that one.
 
What do you guys think about his multimeter?

I still didn't pick one up, but I have a electronics DIY project I need to work on during the break and might pick this up today.
Should be good. Looks like it has a buzzer to indicate continuity. That's handy in that you can be checking leads and not have to be able to also read the gauge. Mine doesn't have that feature sadly.
 
For basic functions and not much more $$ Klein meter would be my first choice over Mcraft. View attachment 65103


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app

Thanks for this, didn't even think to check there. I was second guessing getting the MC one since I read the reviews about the tips not being good and units dying or shorting out.

This look good to me, I'll get this instead. (y)
 
The saga continues. Shift side - was going to just flip the shift lever and go with a GP shift pattern but the lengths didn't really work.IMG_0954.JPG
 
What do you guys think about his multimeter?

I still didn't pick one up, but I have a electronics DIY project I need to work on during the break and might pick this up today.

I got a Mastercraft similar to that, which I've owned for decades. Has been working fine for basic auto/moto and the odd home electronics troubleshooting. I would agree, though, that Klein is a better brand for not much more if you can afford it. I guess it also depends on what you need it for and how accurate it needs to be. I'm sure there's a reason why Fluke is able to sell theirs for hundreds.
 
Thanks for this, didn't even think to check there. I was second guessing getting the MC one since I read the reviews about the tips not being good and units dying or shorting out.

This look good to me, I'll get this instead. (y)
Most of the "shorted out" mastercrap units are probably people that don't know what they're doing and blew the ass out of them. Have leads setup to measure amps, touch probes to something with voltage and poof. Better meters have some protection against this.
 
there's a reason why Fluke is able to sell theirs for hundreds.
Fluke is the only meter I have seen that has a real 600v fuse. Open your meter and find the main input fuse... most use a small 250v glass fuse, a Fluke uses a REAL 600v fuse.
Not an issue if you're only working on 250v or less.
You can get a real Fluke 117 (Chinese model) for $125... but you get no warranty.
I like UNI-T meters. If you're buying a meter look for a true RMS, so you can use it as a tach. If I was buying a meter today it would be a UNI-T UT105/107 .
El-cheapo meters are accurate enough for what we are doing... el-cheapo meters don't last and eat batteries. If you buy an el-cheapo meter get yourself some decent leads, or buy some banana plugs and make your own. I probably have as much money invested in leads as I do in meters... and I own at least half a dozen meters
 
Most of the "shorted out" mastercrap units are probably people that don't know what they're doing and blew the ass out of them. Have leads setup to measure amps, touch probes to something with voltage and poof. Better meters have some protection against this.
I don't know if a replaceable fuse is what you meant, but I managed to blow the one in mine and was able to easily replace it and get it working.
 
I don't know if a replaceable fuse is what you meant, but I managed to blow the one in mine and was able to easily replace it and get it working.
Some don't even have a fuse that is easily replaceable. A cheap multimeter with a soldered fuse (or worse a fusible link on pcb) is destined for the bin. Many cheap multimeters will be beyond economical repair with voltage while setup to measure amps. Honestly, for most cheap multimeters, I doubt the owners even open them. Just write a bad review and throw it in the garbage.
 
Thanks all for the further input on the multimeter. I bought the Fluke one @cruiserider mentioned.

Now next up, soldering iron. This project is to replace a transistor on a circuit board. I'm planning to pick something off Amazon which I can adjust the watts/temp, I think 30 is all I need. Priced around $20 for a kit.
 

Back
Top Bottom