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Also should mention what I believe happened is that because the lead was lose the voltage was fluctuating and From my research the ECU has a fail safe in that case. The reason I think the bike was stalling in neutral is it was running off the stock air fuel mixture ratio and because of an exhaust I installed it didn’t have enough back pressure to stay running. Now I could be completely wrong but this is what me and my buddy pieced together
Already a step ahead steady at 14.1
Immediately yes. Also rpm and voltage stabilized it went from jumping between 1500 and 2000rpm randomly and the engine sound like it wanted to die. And the volts were bouncing between 13.5 and 15.5V. Also once I got it started before we knew about the battery lead it kept losing power while riding and gave me an ECU fault. All previous issues have gone away. Is there a thing I can buy to make sure the lead bolt stays tightened or do I just need to tighten it to factory specs
Immediately yes. Also rpm and voltage stabilized it went from jumping between 1500 and 2000rpm randomly and the engine sound like it wanted to die. And the volts were bouncing between 13.5 and 15.5V. Also once I got it started before we knew about the battery lead it kept losing power while riding and gave me an ECU fault. All previous issues have gone away. Is there a thing I can buy to make sure the lead bolt stays tightened or do I just need to tighten it to factory specs
Rpms and voltage are stable now not bouncing around and the headlights flickering. Bike starts perfectly no issues so I believe I fixed the issue. Also the bikes electronics were inconsistently starting and the voltage when tested would randomly switch between perfect 12.5 without it started and completely dead
Ah well we managed to not strip it this time but I’ll bring a 10mm with me thanks for the heads up we just wanted to get it tightened for the mean time
All in all between installing a full exhaust system because I didn’t realize I had bought a full exhaust system meaning I had to take the bike a little bit apart to get better access to my exhaust manifold and fixing this cluster truck of a night I now bestow an amazing title upon myself
Ya my buddy sal has a reputable guy who can do it for me likely will get it done next week. I’m gonna be real I didn’t know I had ordered a full system. I was looking at exhausts didn’t want just a slip on so I bought one that said it had the exhaust tube and mid pipe. Turns out it also had an exhaust manifold and due to its placement I had to remove a giant block which I believe had my catalytic converter in it Lmaoo so basically TLDR; I didn’t read the part details too well and now I have a cat delete
Also in my defence I grabbed on that was vehicle specific so all I knew was it had a muffler, it had a mid pipe and it fit my bike so I said shut up and take my money. I also didn’t realize it was 271…..euros so it ended up being an almost $500 exhaust system and I was too lazy and prideful to return it so boom slapped her in, winged the install cuz there was no guides I could find (likely I was just too lazy and impatient) but I looked at a picture of a bike with the exhaust system on it and figured it out myself
May as well go all in and get a power commander, big injector and open up the airbox. I got a couple maps I can send your way if you decide to go for it
I’ll look into it unfortunately gotta start putting some money into my savings didn’t realize how expensive the exhaust was when I bought or that it was a full kit but I have a guy who’s gonna do a race map for me just waiting to hear back from a friend on if he already has the map for my bike or if he needs to make one
As far as I know you're probably gonna need to blow another few hundo to get a fuel controller to get that race map on your bike unless buddy has a way to modify the actual ECU. I've got a couple maps. Power map from Rottweiler, my dyno tune from Champion cycle and a map from Chad at Commonwealth Motorcycles. Chad is apparently the god of 390 mods and I've based my "build" off of his. You also gotta think about the open and closed loop due to the ride by wire system. You got some research to do bud
From what I heard guy can do an ECU wipe get rid of some restrictions and change the mapping so I should be alright but my buddy sal will let me know what I need to get. He only recommended me getting a power controller if I noticed some lag on my inputs but honestly had no problems so far besides the issue I posted about but tightening the battery lead fixed it
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