I’ve had it 10+ years. I’d be shocked if I paid $20 for it.
Been looking for it for weeks and just happened to show up during a search for something else.
Volt Meter
- Thread starter Jampy00
- Start date
Been looking for it for weeks and just happened to show up during a search for something else.
Yup! I have a cheap CTC unit. Seems to do everything I need.
@Jampy00 also remember the meter is super handy for bike related stuff as well.
Fluke if you want top quality and don't mind spending the money.
Mastercraft ones work well, the 9v ones like others noted. I have also had mine for over a decade and it still works perfect. Just make sure to wait for a sale if you can!
Mastercraft ones work well, the 9v ones like others noted. I have also had mine for over a decade and it still works perfect. Just make sure to wait for a sale if you can!
I'm sure it is...my issue is I don't have a clue on how to use it to check if something is broken / missing etc.
i.e.: I couldn't tell for the life of me on how to check if an electrical component / connection is broken or damaged. So can't 'source' the issue.
You can check for voltage at the device and work backward toward the source to see where it is the voltage stops.
Agreed, but for the purpose of this thread it is household related.
That is an excellent idea, I typically use a desk lamp etc.This will find the breaker and is cheap
Sent from the future
The tracer is a good starting point then you can confirm with an actual light or appliance etc.
I just hate the flick all the breakers game...
Partially true. You still need to have a rock solid understanding of what's going on and why you have chosen the reference point you did (ground). I've seen multiple people get lit up when they failed to select the proper reference point. Measure voltage on both sides of a switch and get zero volts, that means the switch is de-energized or closed. You have insufficient information from that test to know if it is de-energized. Using the same test points, if you get a voltage, that means the circuit on one side of the switch is energized and the switch is open. That logic messes some people up and they learn the hard way.
If working alone, you can also use an old radio on full blast. When the music stop, you found the breaker.
I was told that many meters are designed to be safe to use at the dial voltages but only Fluke actually tests theirs to the voltage.
An electrician I worked with used a new, solid looking, off brand meter on a 600 volt circuit and was off for months because it blew up in his hands when he used it.
In response to his complaint the supplier said it was for household use only (300 volts max). They were quiet when he pointed out the 600 volt range.
I used to use Megger brand insulation testers and it was like visiting family when I took them in for repairs several times a year. Then I bought a Fluke 20+ years ago and occasionally replace batteries and leads. Working with mineral insulated cable means having an insulation tester surgically attached to your left hand because it got worked.
On the flip side, Joe homeowner can replace the glass fuse for $1 and the fluke fuse is at least 10x that much. If Joe homeowner keeps the leads out of the current holes, it's hard to blow up a half decent meter.
RC-31
Well-known member
If the OP is not measuring current (said before) then why bother getting a meter that measures it? Cheap ones only measure milliamps and better ones only 10A.
Measuring current at the household level is dangerous.
The Fluke 101 can be found in the $40-$50 dollar range.
It can handle 600V safely.
It is autoranging.
It even has resale value.
Measuring current at the household level is dangerous.
The Fluke 101 can be found in the $40-$50 dollar range.
It can handle 600V safely.
It is autoranging.
It even has resale value.
I did it in high school.
It was kind of funny when the teacher (super guy) opened the case to change to fuse and a little cloud of smoke floated out, almost like it was waving goodbye.
OH? Where?
$75 on Aliexpress for a Chinese one (NOTHING wrong with a chinese Fluke, except there is no warranty in Canada). $80 on amazon
There was a time you could get a Fluke 115/117 for $75-90 on Aliexpress but Fluke stepped in and put an end to that
I've blown up lots of meters doing stupid stuff. Does that capacitor still capacitate? YIKES... let the smoke out... again.
robmack
Well-known member
EEvblog did a vblog on why they are so expensive and whether Fluke was worth the money.
Recommend Uni-T UT61B or UT61C. Best value for money.
Recommend Uni-T UT61B or UT61C. Best value for money.
Ime, almost every cheap meter says it will measure 10A. Getting a meter that accurately and precisely measures milliamps requires you to go way up the fluke product tree.
RC-31
Well-known member
Oops. I'm in the USA ATM and all my searches are in USD.
If you're trying to measure milliamps with a hand held meter you need electro shock therapy
... you know what though... unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing, don't measure current with a multimeter ... just DON'T. For the house holder and all AC current: get a clamp meter. Unless you know what you're doing, EXACTLY what you're doing, you shouldn't be in the middle of a series circuit... even at household currents that may be a dangerous place. (... and if you don't know what that last sentence means... it applies to you).
... so if you're a house holder you want a clamp MULTI meter... for around the house.
DC clamp meters have REALLY come down in price... for around the shop
... you know what though... unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing, don't measure current with a multimeter ... just DON'T. For the house holder and all AC current: get a clamp meter. Unless you know what you're doing, EXACTLY what you're doing, you shouldn't be in the middle of a series circuit... even at household currents that may be a dangerous place. (... and if you don't know what that last sentence means... it applies to you).
... so if you're a house holder you want a clamp MULTI meter... for around the house.
DC clamp meters have REALLY come down in price... for around the shop
