Honda is good.My Goldwing 1800 has 100k and the solid lifters are still in spec.
Probably because if it was any more frequent on a Wing, nobody would do it

Honda is good.My Goldwing 1800 has 100k and the solid lifters are still in spec.
Or just get a VFR and don't worry about having to do the valve check till close to 100k
valves too tight most notably cause lack of heat transfer from head of valve to the seat in the head, not only does the valve face surface deform easier in this overheated condition but the oil on the stem burns and causes problems in the guide such as sticking valves (common in large twins that get pipes and no jetting).
Valve seating pressure also keeps the seat and face clean, if valve is tight this pressure is lessened, allowing the beginnings of cascading issues I mentioned.
Too loose will at least be allowing oil between parts and the valve can shed it's heat to its seat, eventually it can lead to other wear problems. On many valve trains with rocker arms it's not necessarily bad to hear some ticking.
Maintaining your engine according to manufacturers specifications is good for most owners but be aware that maintenance intervals must be adjusted if an engine is seeing heavier or more severe use. In other words, if an engine is living a harder life it should see more maintenance. I advise this to dealers filing warranty claims for the same repeated repair.
HD has had hydraulic lifters for years, they apparently have a self adjusting lifter system now that works with engine expansion from heat and wear and has zero lash on the valve train.
An almost completely maintenence free system won't stop guys from replacing the hydraulics with solid lifters to gain a 1/4hp...... that and loud valves save lives.
This is bad advise. Sorry to say.
In a modern bike , if you at a point where you hear clanking - it is too late. Now you are replacing components.
At 24K-25K if the factory manual says it needs a adjustment - 9/10 - it will need it adjusted.
Modern bikes with tight clearances and multiple valves per cylinder are sensitive to valve clearances.
Add throttle / fly by wire , electronic controlled servo motors throttle bodies - it gets even more important.
Too tight = wear cams, galls cams , valves seals
too loose = gets expensive, big loss of power.
Bond paper for a feeler gauge = bad idea.
A bit off topic.Harley has a new motor with zero maintenance valve train.This'll be fun to watch.
Harley's valve trains have been maintenance free with hydraulic lifters for a long time. I know the HD mechanics are doing the big build-up on the new Milwaukee-8, but the stuff about the valve train is just salesmanship. They don't have the same problems the OHC engines do.
But if you're doing it right you shouldn't have any problems. That means following the manual, having the lobes in correct position and if it's .005 (usually on older bikes) then .006 bond paper is an old trick and it works just fine. You can even adjust the valves by ear if you want. But you also want to be in spec, and on prissy-***** Italian spaghetti-burners you might want to invest in the tools. For the rest of us mortals it's the backyard method.
Keeping in mind that a set of feeler gauges would be $10-20, something that even mortals could afford. And they can measure more than one size of gap. Do you mic your bond paper when you use it?
You mean the same problems those built to rev over 7k do. The main problem being valve float, which is why hydraulic lifters are not used in say, a CBR 1k.
Keeping in mind that a set of feeler gauges would be $10-20, something that even mortals could afford. And they can measure more than one size of gap. Do you mic your bond paper when you use it?
this^ by ear is a joke i think? how do you hear a tight valve? frekey guy is correct.
feeler gauges will also measure out of spec clearances so you can do the math and choose the right shim - and are a must have to do your clearances properly
I measure the shims with a mic. as occasionally the stamped number on the shim is not accurate by a small amount
About to get my honda's valves adjusted(because the previous owners never did) its right around the 25k mark which is when they should get adjusted/checked anyway.
I was looking at yamaha's website and noticed they have valve adjustment intervals at every 42k.
Is this a way to gauge a bikes/engines reliability? The longer it can go without valves adjusted, the better?
Is this another one of those indicators , like the lower rpm redlines, that are a good indicator of a reliable/bulletproof bike(or engine?)
About to get my honda's valves adjusted(because the previous owners never did) its right around the 25k mark which is when they should get adjusted/checked anyway.
I was looking at yamaha's website and noticed they have valve adjustment intervals at every 42k.
Is this a way to gauge a bikes/engines reliability? The longer it can go without valves adjusted, the better?
Is this another one of those indicators , like the lower rpm redlines, that are a good indicator of a reliable/bulletproof bike(or engine?)
Roadghost How far out have you found your clearances after the recommended service interval?[/QUOTE said:ive found valve shim clearance off so much that the cyl pressure was down ~ 60psi (tight valve). if it had been left like this the valve would have burned.
why do you ask?
You can use a set of Vernier calipers. To be clear I'm talking about an SOHC engine, NOT a DOHC engine that requires shims. BTW, what's with the goofs who are worried about tightening the lash too much? If you do that you aren't following any manual, and you probably shouldn't be working on an engine, ever. This isn't rocket science:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sdNdcbQ77k
so bond paper at .006 works just fine.
Have you ever put a micrometer on your 'bond' paper? Standard office 20lb bond/50lb offset is nowhere near .006" (45+ years experience with the stuff).