Up shifting without a quick shifter | GTAMotorcycle.com

Up shifting without a quick shifter

sparkybp

Well-known member
Hey guys I'm nowhere near fast enough for a quick shifter to be required to actually make a difference in my lap times but I was wondering if you guys feel that up shifting by getting off the gas and popping it in can do damage do the transmission. I'd like to stick with this as it worked well for me so far but I would consider a quick shifter if it would reduce any damage I may be doing to the tranny.


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I've always upshifted with the clutchless throttle blip technique until my new bike which has a quickshifter. I've never had any transmission problems caused by that. Can it do damage? I think all "hard shifting" wears down the dogs eventually. Don't put excessive pressure on the shifter or you could bend a shift fork. I'm sure some other guys will have some bad tranny stories, and I don't mean those weird cross-dressing track parties. LOL
 
I've always upshifted with the clutchless throttle blip technique until my new bike which has a quickshifter. I've never had any transmission problems caused by that. Can it do damage? I think all "hard shifting" wears down the dogs eventually. Don't put excessive pressure on the shifter or you could bend a shift fork. I'm sure some other guys will have some bad tranny stories, and I don't mean those weird cross-dressing track parties. LOL

Lol.


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I've always upshifted with the clutchless throttle blip technique until my new bike which has a quickshifter. I've never had any transmission problems caused by that. Can it do damage? I think all "hard shifting" wears down the dogs eventually. Don't put excessive pressure on the shifter or you could bend a shift fork. I'm sure some other guys will have some bad tranny stories, and I don't mean those weird cross-dressing track parties. LOL

Do you feel a big difference with the quick shifter?


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Is this because it felt like it's having more trouble engaging into second than any others ?


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That's part of it and also the only time I'm making that shift is when I'm in a pack of like 15 bikes trying to make it to turn one first and I reeeeealy don't want to miss that one
 
I sometimes do and sometimes don't...so long as you unload things for a split second it should almost fall into the higher gear.

Now at risk of getting into a debate that I don't want to be involved in...NEVER downshift without the clutch unless somehow your bike has some magical computer that takes care of it all for you. I know some people do this, and really there isn't a benefit and you risk both wrecking your transmission and/or locking up the rear when doing so.
 
You can do damage if you don't up shift properly. There is an advantage to a QS but if you don't want one you don't need one. It sounds like you can shift without it so it's pretty much your call. It's nice when your exiting a corner leaned over hard on the gas to just push or pull into the next gear with no other actions required.

You can downshift without the clutch if you know what your doing and slipper clutches take care of that rear wheel lock up.
 
Awesome I'm glad nobody is saying they wrecked their tranny too quick. And yes I'm comfortable with up shifting by unloading never felt like it hurt anything it slides right in every time.


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quick shifters are easier on your transmission, chain and sprockets.
 
Will quickshifters cause damage to the shift fork, shift drum, etc? I recentlypurchased a quickshifter, thats why I ask?

I am a first time user with a quickshifter, how do I know I have the settings set properly? Currently I am running stock values in my Annitori QS Pro, and feel I have to put a fair bit of force to get it to upshift with the quickshifter. Is this normal? Or should I decrease sensitivity?
 
Will quickshifters cause damage to the shift fork, shift drum, etc? I recentlypurchased a quickshifter, thats why I ask?

I am a first time user with a quickshifter, how do I know I have the settings set properly? Currently I am running stock values in my Annitori QS Pro, and feel I have to put a fair bit of force to get it to upshift with the quickshifter. Is this normal? Or should I decrease sensitivity?
I had the Annitori unit couple of years ago so i know a little about it.

Let me ask how did you test it? Reason I am asking is because the higher you are on RPM and speed the easier it gets to shift with it. For example when using it with the bike on stands it is really hard to shift since you are not going full throttle, but once on track with the higher RPM it becomes easier.

Also, you need to be aware that if you change the setting to the most sensitive setting, your shifter linkage needs to be solid or you are going to start having false engine cuts due to vibration. Make sure you also ground the shifter directly to the battery and not the bike body.

I would first try it on track at the middle setting and work from there.

I am not sure what a Shift Fork and Drum are? but English is my 3rd language and i don't have all mechanical components down
 
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Will quickshifters cause damage to the shift fork, shift drum, etc? I recentlypurchased a quickshifter, thats why I ask?

I am a first time user with a quickshifter, how do I know I have the settings set properly? Currently I am running stock values in my Annitori QS Pro, and feel I have to put a fair bit of force to get it to upshift with the quickshifter. Is this normal? Or should I decrease sensitivity?

The Annitori QS Pro is a brand new unit and not what most people on here would have, so the majority of user experience you will hear is not on the unit you have. The majority of people use the 'red' unit which is actually a re-branded HM unit with 3 settings.
The QSPro that you have, as i am sure you are aware, you can change the sensitivity and kill times a single value at a time from your smart phone using the NFC function. If you are finding it hard to shift I would look at your linkage setup before messing with the factory values. For me out of the box it shifted like butter, even at low RPM's. If you do feel the need to play with the times, do it in small increments 1-2 at a time, go do a session and see how it feels. I have found their tech support pretty useful as well if you continue to have issues.
 
Shift linkage is tight, no play what so ever. I was shifting at lower rpm, which I assume is why it was a little hard to shift. I went out for a second ride, and had the rpm higher and it was much smoother. I think I will marginally increase the sensitivity, as I think there is a little bit of improvement that can be made, and see what happens.

Thanks for your insight!!
 
Shift linkage is tight, no play what so ever. I was shifting at lower rpm, which I assume is why it was a little hard to shift. I went out for a second ride, and had the rpm higher and it was much smoother. I think I will marginally increase the sensitivity, as I think there is a little bit of improvement that can be made, and see what happens.

Thanks for your insight!!
Glad it was because you were shifting low RPM. All Annatori's are basically the same just with different levels of settings. The equations that calculate the cut times are the same and the materials are the same.
 
...All Annatori's are basically the same just with different levels of settings. The equations that calculate the cut times are the same and the materials are the same.

Just dont tell Paul Annitori that. We had a lengthy conversation during their beta phase where he explained to me that the new version is now 100% theirs and doesn't share a single component with the HM version they used to distribute, i.e. the red version.
 

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