Two 1199 Ducs for Sale on Kijji | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Two 1199 Ducs for Sale on Kijji

I always check the racetech and other websites to see if the bike im buying has suitable spring rates......some bikes do and some dont. I have never heard of 5 hours of labour to change springs, but I normally bring my forks to the shop to work on.

On an aside, does the OP's bike burn oil like some others I have seen?
 
I'm not the OP but I have had no problem with oil burning. I was warned by the dealer I could lose 1 L per 300kms for the first 1000km. Aside from a few start up puffs, I haven't had any oil issue.

Some high speed wiggle issues with the rear, but that was sorted out with dropping the rear PSI to 31. Other than that other Duc riders have had a similar wiggle at high speed in head winds from time to time.

Other than my forks and brake issue the bike is a dream.

Latest from my dealer is that they suspect a fork oil leak and possibly the oil may have gotten on the brake pads too. Other Pani owners I ran into at LL yesterday love theirs, and I believe they had base models.

I'll hit 1000km tomorrow and get to open up (sadly) only another 1000rpm. The break in period is quite long! 2500km!!! So I find this has frustrated some impatient owners with a lot of disposable income. Trying to flog a Pani for above RRSP is a losing battle also.
 
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Fork oil, all in would be under $100, and was the first recommendation when I spoke with Ohlins USA. Next they recommended a revalve which is 5+ hours of work + a kit from Ohlins, followed by their last suggestion of 105 forks.

Rider's Choice on the other hand believe 105 springs for a 200lbs rider would only be necessary for a serious track fiend and excessive for street riding. They also quoted $150 for the springs plus 5 hours work and a caveat that the electronic forks are not something they are entirely familiar with, so they cannot guarantee a minimum of 5 hours.

Have a look at the video and you may agree this is likely not normal and a warranty issue.
 
murf said:
If you lost the oil it would be easy to see it on the forks!
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There seems to be a fine grade of oil residue on my fairings and radiator grille. Not enough to be all the fork oil. I have also been getting a fine spray on my boots, kick stand and belly exhausts. The problem seems to have been progressive also, so I am starting to believe I have lost some oil, possibly from below the stanchions.
 
Burn oil or run rich...a friend of mine has one and thought it was burning oil because it was smoking when blipping the throttle. It's actually running rich. after 500 km, the exhaust tips are coated in carbon.
murf said:
I always check the racetech and other websites to see if the bike im buying has suitable spring rates......some bikes do and some dont. I have never heard of 5 hours of labour to change springs, but I normally bring my forks to the shop to work on.

On an aside, does the OP's bike burn oil like some others I have seen?
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awyala said:
Fork oil, all in would be under $100, and was the first recommendation when I spoke with Ohlins USA. Next they recommended a revalve which is 5+ hours of work + a kit from Ohlins, followed by their last suggestion of 105 forks.

Rider's Choice on the other hand believe 105 springs for a 200lbs rider would only be necessary for a serious track fiend and excessive for street riding. They also quoted $150 for the springs plus 5 hours work and a caveat that the electronic forks are not something they are entirely familiar with, so they cannot guarantee a minimum of 5 hours.

Have a look at the video and you may agree this is likely not normal and a warranty issue.
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I thought the forks would have to be removed to change the oil as well, but maybe not.
 
awyala said:
I'm not the OP but I have had no problem with oil burning. I was warned by the dealer I could lose 1 L per 300kms for the first 1000km. Aside from a few start up puffs, I haven't had any oil issue.
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A litre of oil per 300 Kms????? Is it a two stroke? :)
 
Those stock springs are probably around a 9.0, not a 1.0 as you suggest. I weigh about the same as you and there's no way you'd bottom out 1.0 springs with everyday street riding. If you do, you're not riding properly for the conditions.
 
In this case it is just a top up, not an oil grade swap. A few other Pani and Desmo owners, even guys in the 160 lbs range have complained of bottoming out with springs suited to their weight. Some suspect and have discovered stock fork oil levels are also little low and recommend a top up. This is what I meant about $100 for "oil" as a first recourse of action. Just getting it on the hoist to extend the suspension to initiate the work and all will push the 30 min mark, and mechanics don't charge by the minute do they.
 
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MrBruce said:
Those stock springs are probably around a 9.0, not a 1.0 as you suggest. I weigh about the same as you and there's no way you'd bottom out 1.0 springs with everyday street riding. If you do, you're not riding properly for the conditions.
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Ohlins has confirmed 1.0 springs. Go back a Page and watch the video I posted. 1.0s shouldn't do that even on endos! Now imagine those forks at the end of a straight? 1.0s should be bottoming like that if I was pushing it on the track, not faffing around town running errands.
 
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mmmnaked said:
He wont change springs as a matter of principle :lol:

Manufacturers are supposed to defy physics and create a compliant suspension for riders from 120lbs to 350.
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Maybe 160 to 210 no? Or rather 560 to 610 (including bike)? So it's abnormal for the stock adjustment range to cover a 10% spread? Nice hyperbole to mask a weak argument.
 
I never swap springs either, I just ride the bike the way it is... but I recognize that it was designed for a lighter rider. If I wanted 100% from the bike, I'd change the springs. Its not a matter of "principle".
 
mmmnaked said:
I never swap springs either, I just ride the bike the way it is... but I recognize that it was designed for a lighter rider. If I wanted 100% from the bike, I'd change the springs. Its not a matter of "principle".
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If you're bottoming out on your commute riding a supersport bike, you're not even getting 30%, and that's abnormal.
 
caboose483 said:
What are your sag numbers?

If sag is good and you're bottoming then it's a reasonable possibility that you have a fork oil issue. If sag is over 40mm then you have a spring rate issue.
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I have to redo my sag since I have maxed the preload. I'll settle that at the service. I had asked the dealer to set the preloads before I picked it up initially, and the mech is a former racer, same height, same weight. So I had assumed he got the sag right, between 25 to 35mm.

I appreciate the insight Caboose, as some people have hazarded that it could be the oil level, while others doubt that additional oil would effect bottoming out, instead suggesting that would just effect dampening. From what I am gathering, oil level may effect preload, while oil viscosity would effect dampening.

I also gut a former CSBK colleague at work who feels an oil top up and some weight loss (on my part) may be the best starting point. He is the same weight as me and felt it wasn't too bad (just pushing on the forks), but he felt 105 springs is what he would swap to if racing, not for street riding. He also felt the brake chatter is likely a suspension issue.

So we will see what the mech says by the end of the week.

Anyways, I'll get back to you on the sag and forks issue. I feel a bit guilty of hijacking the thread, so we can return to a wider spectrum of 1199 issues that would motivate a resale ;).

I'm keeping mine...saggy forks or not!!!
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