Two 1199 Ducs for Sale on Kijji | GTAMotorcycle.com

Two 1199 Ducs for Sale on Kijji

S

Spike66

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One is a Tri-colour for $31,000, the other is an "S" for $25,000

Can't understand why you would fork out that amount of cash on a hard to find bike and then sell so quick.

Though a friend the Tri-colour seller mentioned the power does not seem to be there.

I thought the new Duc had close to 200 BHP !, is there maps that have to be loaded by the dealer after break in ?


Any new 1199 owners out there to provide fell free to leave feed back.
 
Power is supposed to be in the top end, with smoothed out unmanageable torque in the low revs removed.

I haven't broken mine in to be sure yet.

I can tell you I find the forks too soft, which seems to be an emerging comment, but running issue with Ducatis in general.

This bike requires thrashing in the higher revs like a Japanese inline. Anyone thinking it would have hooligan, wheelie stomping torque in the low end, or during the 2500km break in period has become quite irritated.

Top 2 bikes for power are the BMW, ZX10R followed by Panigale snuck in with the Aprilia who makes up for it with handling. All of these bikes suffer from low end laziness. All need to be thrashed! All need to hit 90 to 100kph in first gear to feel the power.

Posing around town in everyday traffic at 60kph in second gear makes the Pani feel like a weezing chain smoker, and the ZX10R feel like a eunuch choir boy!

How the Pani handles is quite another story! Now if I can just get the front forks stiffer I would say it is the best handling bike I have ridden...they say on par with the RSV4.
 
awyala said:
How the Pani handles is quite another story! Now if I can just get the front forks stiffer I would say it is the best handling bike I have ridden...they say on par with the RSV4.
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If you can just get the forks more stiff???

you make it sound like its an engineering feat to make this happen.

Spend $100 on some fork springs.

How much do you weigh?

Have you done ANYTHING to remedy the problem with the available adjustment.

Sometimes a riding style adjustment will make the forks work much better as well.
 
reciprocity said:
If you can just get the forks more stiff???

you make it sound like its an engineering feat to make this happen.

Spend $100 on some fork springs.

How much do you weigh?

Have you done ANYTHING to remedy the problem with the available adjustment.

Sometimes a riding style adjustment will make the forks work much better as well.
Click to expand...

Gonna top up the oil at the service. Fork springs and revalve are a bit extreme and expensive solutions at the moment. I have maxed the preload for the time being which has improved the handling and front end.

I am 225 lbs with gear, which is too heavy for the Ohlins Ducati tuned forks. They are generally soft and also tuned for 160lbs rider.

So hard riding for 205lbs rider is pushing the limits of (non-mechanical) solutions.

I shouldn't have to swap springs, and I am opposed to it in principle, so I would rather explore oil-based solutions and go on a diet and slim down to 180lbs before shelling out more cash on food or springs.

I have also adjusted my braking to match the Brembos, but they seem to be having vibration problems when the forks bottom out. So there is only so much style can remedy.
 
I shouldn't have to swap springs, and I am opposed to it in principle, so I would rather explore oil-based solutions and go on a diet and slim down to 180lbs before shelling out more cash on food or springs.


Changing the springs is exactly what you need to do, why would you be opposed to it?
The rear shock is also too light for you. If you want to ride the pani to full potential why not set it up so you can do so? IMO

all bike companies should allow thier customers to order the higher end bikes for thier weight. 150-170lbs/171-190/191-210 etc. I've never understood why they don't.
 
Why I am opposed to swapping 100 springs for 105 springs is because 100 springs should be fine for street riding and the odd track day. I had 100 springs in my ZX10R and never had bottoming out issues, let alone at full preload!

One doesn't buy Ohlins to gut and rebuild them...that's my principle. It should come righted from the start...IMHO.

I have a feeling something is off with the forks I have, and I may push for them to be investigated under warranty. Swapping springs should not be a normal recourse for street riding!

PS for the other poster...it's not a $100 excercise, when 5 hours of labour ar factored in (for conventional - non electronic forks).
 
Love how average joe rider buys a bike and can feel it doesn't have power or handling having never driven it on track and having no skills..Give that bike to even a good amateur racer and they will run rings around ou on any bike you choose.
having said that I hated the handling on my 1098s and yes I have race experience and rode it on track
 
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awyala said:
why i am opposed to swapping 100 springs for 105 springs is because 100 springs should be fine for street riding and the odd track day. I had 100 springs in my zx10r and never had bottoming out issues, let alone at full preload!

One doesn't buy ohlins to gut and rebuild them...that's my principle. It should come righted from the start...imho.

I have a feeling something is off with the forks i have, and i may push for them to be investigated under warranty. Swapping springs should not be a normal recourse for street riding!

Ps for the other poster...it's not a $100 excercise, when 5 hours of labour ar factored in (for conventional - non electronic forks).
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gtam.
 
No, you're right, for normal street riding it shouldn't need it, would it help? Yes but if it feels way off It's definitely worth investigating. You don't get a set of ohins just to crank the preload up to max, you sure you're only 225lbs;) but you are 65lbs heavier than what it's set up for...
Could something be up with the DES?

The bike has ABS, no? Hence the shuddering from the front brake...
I'd love to know how it turns out for you.
Good luck

 
SFer said:
No, you're right, for normal street riding it shouldn't need it, would it help? Yes but if it feels way off It's definitely worth investigating. You don't get a set of ohins just to crank the preload up to max, you sure you're only 225lbs;) but you are 65lbs heavier than what it's set up for...
Could something be up with the DES?

The bike has ABS, no? Hence the shuddering from the front brake...
I'd love to know how it turns out for you.
Good luck
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225lbs with full gear and back pack (laptop camera and spanner), minus leather pants though.

No ABS. I opted for the non-ABS Panigale. I should have zero viberations or brake noise! The bike cannot be set up for a 160lbs rider including gear...that's insane! That's Pedrosa!!!!

I played with the DES, stock sport, race and even maxed out full stiffness compression. At full stiffness it didn't stop bottoming out at all, but reacted slowly to normal small bumps. The ride was horrible. The speed of compression is fine near stock "sport" settings at 18 clicks. I prefer 14.

The preload (stock 8mm or 8 full turns) was a bottom out fest on any comp settings, so I first increased preload by 2 more turns. Still bottomed. Then another 4 turns (still bottomed), then another 2 to max (still bottomed!!!).

And I am talking bottoming on 6 inch endos at red lights dropping from 60kph!!! This isn't scrubbing 100kph off at the end of a track straight.

At max preload the bike rides better, and feels better under hard braking, but I still get the vibrations and noise at the end of the braking. Before maxing the preload, I would bottom out, the rear would not even hint at raising and the front end would lock, chirp and slide like no other bike I have ridden. I mean I was locking the front on average medium to hard braking on Bloor St. traffic in 25 deg. C temps!

There is no way I should be bottoming out and locking the front tire wheel under those conditions.

Since maxing the preload, I can at least get a 6" to 1' endo going, but I don't feel confident on the brakes as I am at the bottom, vibrations are present, and there is zero play left in the suspension to mitigate any feedback.

This is definately not a normal situation. As I said, my ZX10R before this never had such issues. I am starting to believe I have a fork problem.

I'm gonna make a video of it on my ride tonight and email my dealer / mech to have them review it before I come in for a service. I am leaning toward a warranty issue at this point.
 
:hello2: Hi Awyala

awyala said:
The bike cannot be set up for a 160lbs rider including gear...that's insane! That's Pedrosa!!!!
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Pedrosa is 112 lbs without gear. I haven't weighed myself with gear but I'm guessing I would be in the 165-170 lb range.

If you're riding the bike hard and you don't fit into the standard range then you need to make changes. If the oem springs were able to handle a 225 lb rider they would be brutal for someone my size.
 
He wont change springs as a matter of principle :lol:

Manufacturers are supposed to defy physics and create a compliant suspension for riders from 120lbs to 350.
 
Wow.. some people should have their wrenches and screwdrivers taken away.

1337376955353.jpg
 
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I'm not an expert in bike suspention, but from research I've done the first thing you should do is to make sure spring rate is correct for your weight. Spring rate must be correct before you do any other adjustments. Doing anything else before setting correct sag is a mistake.
 
explore oil based solutions? adjusted your braking to the brembos??

Where do you come up with these ideas??

Sorry, but they are completely ridiculous.

You are 65lbs to heavy for the fork springs you have.

you do not have a fork/warranty problem, you have a weight and riding issue.

You'll waste money and time "EXPLORING" your options, where the problem will be solved immediately with a $150 investment in fork springs.
 
reciprocity said:
explore oil based solutions? adjusted your braking to the brembos??

Where do you come up with these ideas??

Sorry, but they are completely ridiculous.

You are 65lbs to heavy for the fork springs you have.

you do not have a fork/warranty problem, you have a weight and riding issue.

You'll waste money and time "EXPLORING" your options, where the problem will be solved immediately with a $150 investment in fork springs.
Click to expand...

Here.....have a look and listen and let me know if this sounds normal for a 200lbs rider. Definitely not! And as a matter of principle, when a 2009 ZX10R NEVER BOTTOMS OUT on the street or track, then I AM NOT GOING TO SWAP SPRINGS ON A 1199S WITH OHLINS! This isn't a friggin set up issue.

Currently I am riding around this a$$hat problem by "adjusting" my braking style so I don't squak the front brakes like I'm riding a beater on the streets, until I have have it looked at by the dealer under warranty.

Swapping springs is not the only option and should be a last resort in this case. 40lbs difference between stock set up should be able to be compensated for in the normal setting range FOR STREET RIDING.

My preload is maxed in this video and I bottom out every damn time! Before anyone has a smart ***** answer about how swapping springs is the sensible thing to do, have a look at the video and possibly try offering another solution.

On that note, a few Duc owners at LL suggested I may have had a fork leak and lost all my oil, as one of them had a similar problem with a 1098, and it was taken care of under warranty.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO5_wyXjMFs&feature=plcp

This is not a weight problem and forks are not a $150 investment! So you're telling me, any street rider who throws their lady on the back and adds 100lbs should invest in new springs eh? Cause having a passenger will bottom a bike out at every stop sign eh?

Hmmm smart ***** answer.
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