Tremclad for the bike?

db ninja said:
I guess what im saying is. if anyone is going to spray tremclad. why not spray acyrilc urathane for the 50-80 bucks more you wont be disappointed.:)
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I've said the same thing; there's no point spraying Tremclad - if you're gonna spray then you might as well use something good.

The one thing with urethanes is the isocyanates. Any curing-type urethane, whether clearcoat or single-stage colour, will emit this when airborne. Don't breathe that stuff. VERY bad.
 
Brian P said:
I've said the same thing; there's no point spraying Tremclad - if you're gonna spray then you might as well use something good.

The one thing with urethanes is the isocyanates. Any curing-type urethane, whether clearcoat or single-stage colour, will emit this when airborne. Don't breathe that stuff. VERY bad.
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Yes and you don't just wear a dust mask when you are working with isocyanates, you have to wear a respirator. Isocyanates react with moisture including the moisture in your eyes and lungs, so you really need a respirator with chemical cartridges on.
 
John Deere Blitz Black, from a farm implement dealer, gives you a satin black finish, and is 1 step. I did my full size pick-up for under 100. in material. I also used it as a base for my BSA side covers, and cleared it with high gloss. Both turned out very well. Google it , the car guys all use it.
 
I dont have a respirator, but if i guess i will have to go buy one if needed.

Why not use a laquer paint? Is there something wrong with them on bikes?

One of my friends has some type of connection with a paint factory, so i am going to see what he can get me. If that dosent work, i will look into urethane and John Deere Blitz Black paint.
 
db ninja said:
There is nothing wrong with a single stage arylic urathane.. duel stage is not always nessary. most colors can be mixed in a single stage
and its not that expensive

I bought a pint of porsche white and a pint of orange, with the hardner and reducer for $130 bucks
sand once and spray... easy as that


sanding then tremclading and sanding between every coat up to 5 times.(according to the artical i read) doesnt sound that fun to me

only advantage i can see to this is you can roll it in your basement and you dont need any spray equipment.

it will scratch and mark easy and has virtually no uv and solvent protection.

I guess what im saying is. if anyone is going to spray tremclad. why not spray acyrilc urathane for the 50-80 bucks more you wont be disappointed.:)
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Well the two stage reference was made towards a tank. Nothing else will resist gasoline I believe.

I was talking about rolling tremclad (as that's what the posts were referring to), not spraying (don't need the paint on my garage walls I just need it on the bike ... :-) simply speaking I am not set up for any kind of spraying) ... number one. Number two, are you going to spray and sand my bike for 130 bucks? (if you do I'll be glad to send you PM) I am sure you will not ... my point was, doesn't matter what kind of spray, once I have someone do it, I am more less looking at 800-1000 bucks per bike (tank and all fairings; doesn't matter one stage two stage ... the money is in the prep and sanding I was told), and that's for a couple of colors scheme, nothing artsy. Yes it will be very good looking, but I am not willing to sink that much money in paint ...

I can roll Tremclad slowly in my garage ... no it will not look as good and no it will nopt be fun, but it will be inexpensive and my garage will look still clean. Simply it will get the job done ... that was the gist of my post.

BTW, nice looking bike you have there.
 
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If there is any confusion, this should clear it up...

Single stage paint... Is all paints that require one stage of painting

ie, tremclad,. Laquer,. acyrilic enamals,. acyrilic urathanes, epoxys, these are the most popualar..

Any single stage, that require a hardner will be fine for gas tank and fairings. Mix color with hardner and reducer then spray... and all done.
I use this meathod with all the track bikes that i have painted. (using the acrylic urathane)

single stage with a hardener cures.....single stage with no hardener dries, and is soft...ie tremclad, laquer.. and will reactivate with solvents even if the paint has been on for years....

2 stage or duel stage.... 1) is you mix the color with a reducer and hardner then spray, after spraying this type of paint, it is dull and flat. 2) then you mix up the clear with hardner and reducer and spray on top of the base. this gives it the shine and protection from UV rays and solvents.
hence the 2 stages.... 1) base coat and 2) clear coat

tri-coat is....1) spray the base coat, 2) spray pearls and candy color...3) is the clear coat.


I dont work for free... lol $130 is what i paid for the paint. (would of been cheaper if i used one color) and i did all the work myself..

i usually charge $500 bucks which includes sanding, spray on barrier coat of primer, sand again, then spray single stage acyrilc urathane

Im pretty much booked till spring but im sure there are a few shops/people that would be willing to do it..
 
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infernobuster said:
DB ninja .. nice job of painting that Gixxer. Looks like a good job ..
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Thanks...

When I bought the bike it was flat white.... but the body was in perfect condition

033.jpg
 
db ninja said:
If there is any confusion, this should clear it up...

Single stage paint... Is all paints that require one stage of painting

ie, tremclad,. Laquer,. acyrilic enamals,. acyrilic urathanes, epoxys, these are the most popualar..

Any single stage, that require a hardner will be fine for gas tank and fairings. Mix color with hardner and reducer then spray... and all done.
I use this meathod with all the track bikes that i have painted. (using the acrylic urathane)

single stage with a hardener cures.....single stage with no hardener dries, and is soft...ie tremclad, laquer.. and will reactivate with solvents even if the paint has been on for years....

2 stage or duel stage.... 1) is you mix the color with a reducer and hardner then spray, after spraying this type of paint, it is dull and flat. 2) then you mix up the clear with hardner and reducer and spray on top of the base. this gives it the shine and protection from UV rays and solvents.
hence the 2 stages.... 1) base coat and 2) clear coat

tri-coat is....1) spray the base coat, 2) spray pearls and candy color...3) is the clear coat.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification.


db ninja said:
I dont work for free... lol $130 is what i paid for the paint. (would of been cheaper if i used one color) and i did all the work myself..

i usually charge $500 bucks which includes sanding, spray on barrier coat of primer, sand again, then spray single stage acyrilc urathane

Im pretty much booked till spring but im sure there are a few shops/people that would be willing to do it..
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I realize that and I cannot imagine someone would work for free, I only mentioned it, because that was mentioned by you as a cost to you, not to me or anyone else ..... Shops will charge me 800-1000 for a couple color scheme. Nothing out of the world. As i said, I've had few quotes done for a tank and it was close to 500 bucks ...

That's why the other cheap methods exists, with its obvious downsides .... but for people who don't want to pay as much and knowing what they are getting back, I think it's a fair game. I am not saying it's better than what you do, I hope it's clear from my post.
 
Brian P said:
Solvents (i.e. gasoline) will attack them.
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Its bad for any paint job really. Spill gas and you wanna wipe it up right away regardless.

As for sanding and repainting... thats what the pros do. Living with Gilligan and watching/helping him with some of the paint jobs hes done I cant count the times I watched him sand bike parts in the house (funny time was sneaking bike parts into a hotel room so he could sand them that night) and I can't count the times we both spent the morning over at the shop around the corner sanding parts.

Dont forget to degrease the parts before you paint. Some comet and a wet clean cloth will do the trick just rinse well and make sure the parts are totally dry.
 
I tried asking this in another thread here, also read in other sites, but didn't get replies:

I want to paint my new track fairings with the Tremclad method, but I also want to draw a 3-4 inch wide line/stripe across with a different color. Should I paint everything with one color Tremclad, and then use the different color Tremclad on top of that, or I shoud paint the two different colored sections separately?

Also, just curious---can other kinds of paint go on top of Tremclad?

Thanks in advance, I've read the whole 50 dollar job thread and couldn't find an answer...
 
You will have trouble with solvent bleeding through anything you try to use to mask off the part you don't want to paint, if you try to use the rolled-on method. I think if you want to go that route, it will work best to do the thinned-out Tremclad with a roller for the main colour, then mask off and use spray-bomb Tremclad for the other colour. I know it's been done. Finish quality will probably not be great.

I'm pretty sure that the only way you can paint over Tremclad with something else, is to cover the whole Tremclad job with a primer/sealer first, i.e. by starting over.

I dropped off my fairings with carboncat today. I've been through the home paint job route and I don't feel like doing it again.
 
Brian P said:
You will have trouble with solvent bleeding through anything you try to use to mask off the part you don't want to paint, if you try to use the rolled-on method. I think if you want to go that route, it will work best to do the thinned-out Tremclad with a roller for the main colour, then mask off and use spray-bomb Tremclad for the other colour. I know it's been done. Finish quality will probably not be great.

I'm pretty sure that the only way you can paint over Tremclad with something else, is to cover the whole Tremclad job with a primer/sealer first, i.e. by starting over.

I dropped off my fairings with carboncat today. I've been through the home paint job route and I don't feel like doing it again.
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Thanks Brian. I think I'm gonna try painting everything with thinned Tremcland with foam rollers and wet sanding between coats, then tape off and use Tremclad spray for the line I want to paint. The bike is for track days only and I'm also itching to do something on the bike, kinda bored..so I'll try it. I might take the gas tank to Carboncat though, we'll see, it all depends on if I decide to sell my OEM fairings, in which case keeping the tank in its stock paint won't be meaningful anymore..
 
Brian P said:
Solvents (i.e. gasoline) will attack them.
Click to expand...

GM cars from the factory came with Laquer paints throughout the '70s and 80's, gas does not attack automotive grade laquer.

Having spent my early life in an autobody shop, there is a lot of sketchy and unsafe info in this thread. As to the Isocyanurate cured paints, they are not generally available to the public anymore, well..they are not supposed to be...
A respirator isnt the answer, nor is a chemical cartridge respirator. You need an air supplied full face mask. Its what real painters use because this stuff will kill you, very slowly, over years. You develope nerve damage and links to cancer years later. Do not play with this stuff at home.
The respiratory issues some of my family collected thirty years on are directly related to stupid safety practises.

Please dont make the mistake that new waterborne paints are safe either, the materials still had slovents to disolve and suspend them before the "water" got in the can.

Safety rant over.
 
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