Tremclad for the bike?

M

motomike

Well-known member
So I've done some research, but still need some help before I start.
I’m thinking of painting my bike with Tremcald, but i am not sure of how to approach it. I’m looking to paint the bike a satin/matte black.

From what I’ve gathered some sources say to use primer while others don't? I would normally be inclined to use it, but if it’s not necessary I will forgo it. Should I use the Tremclad primer or a different one?

Which method of painting should I use?
Spray can, high-density foam brushes, or spray gun? I do have access to a compressor and spray gun, but I have never used them before. Any tips appreciated.

How much mineral spirits should i mix with the paint if I’m using a) a foam brush b) using spray gun.

Does Tremclad offer a matte finish clear coat?

Is it a bad idea to paint when it is bellow 0 Celsius. When i am painting it will be above 0, but for drying will I need to keep above freezing?

And finally, how many layers should I do?
 
google $50 paint job...
 
Thanks,
Answers most questions, but im still not sure one which method to use to paint. Is using brushes the best? And will the temperature be detrimental to the paint job?
 
dont paint in the cold
spray will cover much better
sand and clean before primer
primer is the best way to start
fine wet sand and clean between coats
your bike will be coolio with that paint ..ie..(batilac?)
 
I know someone who painted an old Honda using the $50 paint job method - Tremclad and mineral spirits. It came out VERY well in the end but it took a lot of wet-sanding and polishing.

Expect to have to do a LOT of coats. A base primer/sealer underneath, preferably one tinted somewhat compatibly with what the finish colour is going to be, would probably reduce the number of coats needed.

The whole idea with the $50 paint job is that you apply it with a roller and wet-sand between coats. If you are gonna spray, you might as well spray a proper single-stage paint that will get the job done properly in a couple of coats, as opposed to spraying a zillion coats of thinned Tremclad.
 
motomike said:
Is it a bad idea to paint when it is bellow 0 Celsius.
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Yes. Paints are not designed to dry or cure when it is that cold. They're designed to work somewhere near normal room temperature.

motomike said:
When i am painting it will be above 0, but for drying will I need to keep above freezing?
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Yes - they're designed to work near normal room temperature ...

motomike said:
And finally, how many layers should I do?
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From what I've heard about the thinned-Tremclad method ... A lot.

The other choice here might be to do a base coat of UNthinned Tremclad and let it dry for at least 24 hours, then do the thinned-Tremclad method on top of that. It will probably save a whole bunch of polishing by creating a base layer that's the same colour but thick enough to hide everything underneath.
 
Also look up Plasti-dip paint. Some people have painted their whole cars with that stuff. The advantage is that if you don't like it you can just peel it off.

http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?148167-Rubberizing-or-Truck-Bed-Liner-As-Paint

matte-black-rolls-royce-phantom-1.jpg
 
Don't you like your bike?

The first gas spill on a hot day will make a mess for you. Tremclad is fine paint, for the shed you keep the bike in. There is no clear coat for tremclad .For a bit more money you can buy real automotive paint, you have a sprayer, practice a bit and use that.

you should consider a primer/sealer, if you sanded to bare metal anywhere you need it. The primer is to bridge the metal and allow adhesion and provide a filler coat to fill sand scratches. Sand the primer with 320. When you spray black over primer there is a tendency to put on too much in the first coat, you think you need to cover the primer, that will happen but the second and third coat will do that. The paint will flow out and level for an hour or so after spraying, dont rush it.
If your not comfortable in a long sleeve shirt, its too cold to paint, if you need to wear less than a long sleeve shirt in may be too warm to paint.
If you decide to do tremcald anyway, get a good respirator, the overspray on the floor will wear away, on your lungs could take longer.
 
As a guy who has done body work. Threads like this make me cringe! Have a friend or a GTAM member show you how to do a proper spray job. You'll really appreciate the results!
 
Not everyone's bike justifies to pay 500 bucks a tank to have a two stage paint done. Most people know it's the right way of doing it, but I would never personally spent that much money, I don't care how right it is. Not on my bikes, which I typically just ride and never give them a wash ever ....
 
mxs said:
Not everyone's bike justifies to pay 500 bucks a tank to have a two stage paint done. Most people know it's the right way of doing it, but I would never personally spent that much money, I don't care how right it is. Not on my bikes, which I typically just ride and never give them a wash ever ....
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If thats the case why are people telling the OP to water sand, etc.... if the bikes that hard done by why paint at all? or if painting why prep that much when tremclad covers almost anything lol
 
Thanks for the advice everyone.

I guess i forgot to mention that the bike is spray-bombed with Krylon plastic paint right now. I painted it last spring quickly cause i just wanted to start riding again. The tank was primed, but the rest of the bike was just sanded and bombed. Gas does not visually affect the job. It looked ok, but there are some scratches now, so i need to fix them. Here are some pics. (sorry for the bad quality)

IMG-20111229-00053.jpg



IMG-20111229-00055.jpg


IMG-20111229-00056.jpg


From what i remember from sanding between coats, this paint is very difficult to sand off. I've also been reading on other threads that i cant paint over this paint with automotive paint either.
Will tremclad go over this the Krylon without problems?
or
Should i stop being a lazy *** and sand everything down to bare bones.
 
Here's the dillio dude. (Aren't i cool for an old guy :))
#1 DO NOT USE SOLVENT BASED PAINT INSIDE YOUR HOUSE. Especially in the basement where your furnace and water heater are located. They ignite and so does your house.
If you want to paint your kitchen or bathroom walls with alkyd (mineral spirits) paint then keep your windows open.

I used to work in the lab at Tremco back in the day. I didn't work with paint but the guys at the next bench did.
If you buy Tremclad in a can it is made with a long oil alkyd resin in odourless mineral spirits and it will take a while to dry and it will give you a softer film. If you buy spray cans then I think that is a short oil alkyd or an alkyd/acrylic blend and that is in some kind of lacquer thinner.
You should consider other options like urethane or epoxy air dry paints. I think they sell them at Crappy Tire etc. They should be harder and give better gasoline resistance. I don't know if you can get the epoxy ester in a satin (low gloss) finish but you should be able to get the urethane. You might want to do your colour coat with the black Tremclad and put a clear satin urethane over top.
Temperature is very important but that is an easy fix. Keep your paint and your parts inside the house overnight and take them out to the garage to paint then bring them back in the house to dry.
A word of caution with the spray paints. Most of them have a window of time when you can't do a re-coat. It will probably say on the can but it used to be that you could re-coat within a half-hour when the 1st coat was still a bit wet or after 48 hours when the 1st coat was completely dry. If it is partly dry then it might bubble up on you.
If you decide to spray then cover everything up because the spray gets everywhere. Even behind you. If you use Tremclad from a can you should try diluting it with lacquer thinner instead of mineral spirits. You will use less lacquer thinner and get a dry film that is a bit thicker. You might be able to find a viscosity measuring cup at Princess Auto. It is a cup with a hole in the bottom and you time the number of seconds that it takes for it to drain. In the industry the use a Zahn cup or a #4 Ford cup and each has an optimum time for good spray viscosity. A #4 Ford cup should drain in 20 - 45 seconds if your viscosity is right for spraying.
If you want to brush then thin out your pain and I've been told that a sable brush is the best. Michael's Arts and Crafts has them.
I wouldn't bother sanding to bare metal, just wet sand with fine (360 grit?) and paint etc.
 
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mxs said:
Not everyone's bike justifies to pay 500 bucks a tank to have a two stage paint done. Most people know it's the right way of doing it, but I would never personally spent that much money, I don't care how right it is. Not on my bikes, which I typically just ride and never give them a wash ever ....
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There is nothing wrong with a single stage arylic urathane.. duel stage is not always nessary. most colors can be mixed in a single stage
and its not that expensive

I bought a pint of porsche white and a pint of orange, with the hardner and reducer for $130 bucks
sand once and spray... easy as that.
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sanding then tremclading and sanding between every coat up to 5 times.(according to the artical i read) doesnt sound that fun to me

only advantage i can see to this is you can roll it in your basement and you dont need any spray equipment.

it will scratch and mark easy and has virtually no uv and solvent protection.

I guess what im saying is. if anyone is going to spray tremclad. why not spray acyrilc urathane for the 50-80 bucks more you wont be disappointed.:)
 
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So single stage looks like the way to go since i have access to the spray gun.
Will the cheap stuff from canadian tire be ok for the job? Its black, so i dont care about fading, but i do need it to be scratch resistant.
Also, how much paint will i need for the job? I need to paint the tank, tail sections, the headlight fairing, and possibly the fenders.


Thanks for your help everyone; it is very much appriciated
 
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To my knowledge you can not buy single stage arylic urathane at CT.

I wouldnt buy there dupli color paint because it is laquer

try a Napa or UAP store

You will want a paint, that has a hardner, to cure your finish, so it will protect your finish from uv and solvents
much more durable

a pint will be more than enough..

However, with the finish you have on it now,
will prob wringle because it is spray bomb paint. So you will need to scuff it up put on a sealer or barrier coat primer on it first..


Thats why a lot of paint shops wont touch this kind of stuff, or charge a arm and a leg... for stripping the old coats off first..
 
motomike said:
Thanks for the advice everyone.

I guess i forgot to mention that the bike is spray-bombed with Krylon plastic paint right now. I painted it last spring quickly cause i just wanted to start riding again. The tank was primed, but the rest of the bike was just sanded and bombed. Gas does not visually affect the job. It looked ok, but there are some scratches now, so i need to fix them. Here are some pics. (sorry for the bad quality)
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i see you have a Z750. I'm in the same boat. But instead of painting my tank I think I'm going with this.

http://euro-motards.highwire.com/pr...4-06-top-saddlery-gas-tank-cover-choose-color
http://www.topsellerie.com/@EN-FR/K...ol-tank-covers-tank-bags-motorbike_6_450.html
http://www.bagster.com/en/showroom....d_cylin=15&id_modele=Z 750&id_annee=2004-2006

copri-serbatoio-kawasaki-z750-03-06.jpg
 
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