Tire Experts - Rim Size vs Tire Size

I generally don't give a shat about this internet stuff,but how can anybody in their right mind look at that tire and advise "it should be okay" the op could be injured or killed.Who cares about run out ? LOOK AT THE TIRE

I can't be the only one shaking my head here:confused:
 
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silverbullet132 said:
I had a tire that looked like that on my old stand up 33cc scooter... I was riding it one day and it literally exploded. 3" hole in the sidewall.

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Really??
I've ridden tires all the way to the threads & Toysareforboys have ridden a tire to the threads all the way "around".

I don't see any problem with your "scalloping". When you received the tire, did it have any indentations around it? Did you examined the tire when you received it from shipping?
 
mroberto said:
I did that. Ended up getting in touch with the Engineering Manager at the Nashville office of Bridgeston Americas. He was extremely knowledgeable and helpful.

His take was that this issue is due to how the tire was banded for shipment. I'm not convinced because I believe the scallops are more frequent than the bands. He did say, however, that if it were caused by banding, then it's purely cosmetic and wouldn't be an issue.

He suggested that the larger, and more important, issue, is putting the large tire on a rim that doesn't fall within it's specification (rim is smaller by .75"). He didn't outright say, "Don't ride on this tire." He seemed to think that it would be ok if I didn't ride too aggressively. In a very worst-case situation, the tire would pop a bead, which he said was very unlikely. He thought it more likely that the tire wouldn't feel right or I wouldn't get the full performance benefits from the tire.
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I would go with that gentleman's professional opinion, on both counts.

The issue with having the tire installed on a rim that is narrower than it is designed for is that you will not be able to ride the tire all the way to the edge of the tread - that's what he means by "wouldn't get the full performance benefits". It will have something of an effect on steering feedback and the contact patch will be a bit narrower than what it's designed for because the tire is somewhat "pinched in".

Actual field experience with that tire on a rim of that width has been that it works OK, and that included street riding and track days. I can inquire with the person who actually rode a bike of similar power and weight with that tire on a rim of that width (granted, on a Yamaha rather than a Honda) and see if he wants to contribute his own experiences.

N.B. Full disclosure. He did crash the bike with that tire on it (at the second track day on it with a bunch of street riding in between) ... but does not fault the tire, aside from "not warming up in the first lap enough to accept whacking the throttle open in second gear while at full lean on a hairpin". The number of riders who crash in similar circumstances, even on tires that are perfectly suited to their rims, and still blame the tire even though it was their own darn fault, is uncountable. It happens.

Those tires on those rims should still work better than any tire that you can get that's actually approved for those rim widths. Modern technology radial construction versus stone age technology single compound bias ply ...
 
Brian P said:
I would go with that gentleman's professional opinion, on both counts.

The issue with having the tire installed on a rim that is narrower than it is designed for is that you will not be able to ride the tire all the way to the edge of the tread - that's what he means by "wouldn't get the full performance benefits". It will have something of an effect on steering feedback and the contact patch will be a bit narrower than what it's designed for because the tire is somewhat "pinched in".

Actual field experience with that tire on a rim of that width has been that it works OK, and that included street riding and track days. I can inquire with the person who actually rode a bike of similar power and weight with that tire on a rim of that width (granted, on a Yamaha rather than a Honda) and see if he wants to contribute his own experiences.

N.B. Full disclosure. He did crash the bike with that tire on it (at the second track day on it with a bunch of street riding in between) ... but does not fault the tire, aside from "not warming up in the first lap enough to accept whacking the throttle open in second gear while at full lean on a hairpin". The number of riders who crash in similar circumstances, even on tires that are perfectly suited to their rims, and still blame the tire even though it was their own darn fault, is uncountable. It happens.

Those tires on those rims should still work better than any tire that you can get that's actually approved for those rim widths. Modern technology radial construction versus stone age technology single compound bias ply ...
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I would be interested in hearing your friends opinion on the tire width issue.

I bought these tires for essentially the reason you just stated. The only tires available to fit these rims are bias ply and I think that would be even more unsafe than installing radial tires on a smaller rim. After talking to the Bridgestone guy, I've convinced myself that the scalloping isn't an issue and the bigger issue is the rim fitment.

My plan is to use these tires as they are. I'll scrub them in and ride them on the street to ensure that they are OK under normal loads. I've only ever done one track day so I'm nowhere near what you'd call fast, so the first few times out will be slow and careful. I'll use that time to get a better feel for the tire, keeping an eye on how it's wearing and how it feels. In the meantime, I'll try to find some wider rims (somehow...) so I don't have to worry about this issue.

I do appreciate all of the help and feedback. I've listened and weighed everything you guys have said. Thank you very much!!
 
You're the one who is second-guessing a Bridgestone engineer and an experienced roadracer. If you have a line on a radial-construction rear tire with modern compounds that is officially approved for a 17 x 3.0 rear rim and is more suitable than the Bridgestone BT003RS (which, by the way, has been superceded with the S20 this year), speak up and name it.

Also, I have a minor correction. I think the FZR250 uses a 17 x 3.5 rear rim. Hopefully we will hear shortly.
 
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senor guevera said:
yo,can somebody sticky this thread ? this is just hilarious
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Do you have any experience with the topic at hand???
Is there a reason you're sighting such irrational fear into the OP??
 
As BrianP pointed out I am the guy who has FZR250 with BT003RS installed. He was also right to state that the bike is using 3.5" rim in the rear and 2.75" in the front. I run 110 size in front and 140 in the rear. The tire is a great track tire as well as street one, as long it's not too cold or wet. The light weight bike takes a bit more time to warm the tire up and it's known to be just average tire in the wet. Bridgestone has improved both issues when they released S20. I am not aware of any issue I'd have with this specific tire choice. It's been great to me on the track and even though I am not obviously the fastest guy out there, the tires always gave me a confidence to go a bit quicker next time out there.

The slow warm up and me being impatient did lead to a silly lowside at the end of a very long track day ... but you learn by mistakes. It would be really silly of me to blame the tire for this. Plus I really didn't think that 44HP and me grabbing a handful of 2nd gear throttle would make the rear end go, but it did .... and I learned the lesson to respect the small 4 banger.

Just for the record, I do know of a few people on the FZR250 board who run 140 tire on 3.0" rim, because the older FZR's (as all other Japanese brands) ran a smaller rim up until 89 model, mounted 140 and 110 in front and didn't report any issues.

Let me know, if you want to ask anything else.
 
I just checked the FZR forum .... and there seems to be few posts about older models using 110 and 140. The users noticed the tire edge being pulled in a bit more and thus not allowing them to use the whole tire, but nobody has reported weird handling etc.

One more thing about tire pressure. The tire should be run around 28PSI front and rear, measured cold. That's what I have done during track days and seems to wear nicely considering 3 track days and about 1000 clicks on street. I haven't really changed it for the street.
 
I'd run with it no problem. Just inspect it regular as you do for chain lube. I'd make it a mission to shread the scaloping off on the next exit off ramp. JK.




You got input from the manufacturer. Your ride, you decide.
 
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