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The "Official" Watch Thread and all Things Horological
- Thread starter backmarkerducati
- Start date
Priller
Well-known member
Not in the market for a 'crazy' watch, though I will give them credit for doing something different in a sea of same-same. It's not just a wacky Mad Hatter dial, the movement sets the hour to the correct number in the wrong spot:
What I am in the market for is a GMT, curious about feedback on a few options. Looking for something somewhere around $1k if possible. Would really like a 24-hr two-way bezel, but in muted or neutral colours so it's a flexible wear with a variety of outfits. A traveler's movement (i.e. hour hand can be adjusted without stopping the watch) would be nice, but far from mandatory.
Right now the number one choice is the Squale Sub 39 GMT in black:
It ticks all the boxes, and I really dig the faux-vintage vibe, based on a Squale model from the 60's before anyone says it's a Fifty Fathoms copy.
Second option is a Lorier Hyperion GMT. Harder to find, but doing it's own thing without being too much of a Rolex rip-off. Lorier is a microbrand out of New York, though as usual the bits are sourced offshore, I'm sure. Not a huge fan of the Pepsi-esque two-tone bezel, but the colours are muted enough to be workable:
This Baltic is a contender, but I'm so in love with the blue dive version that I'd rather save room for one of those instead:
Getting away from the dive-style watches into some that are at a crossroads between sporty and dressy are the Mont Blanc Heritage:
And Frederique Constant Runabout:
All of the above, bar the Lorier seem to go for just north of $1k CAD on the used market. The Lorier is less, but much harder to find, and has a Miyota movement while the rest use entry-level Swiss mechanicals.
Also, anyone want a fair price on a Laco Aachen 42 flieger or Citizen Fugu diver with black dial and red bezel? Trying not to accumulate, so needing to move things on to make room...
What I am in the market for is a GMT, curious about feedback on a few options. Looking for something somewhere around $1k if possible. Would really like a 24-hr two-way bezel, but in muted or neutral colours so it's a flexible wear with a variety of outfits. A traveler's movement (i.e. hour hand can be adjusted without stopping the watch) would be nice, but far from mandatory.
Right now the number one choice is the Squale Sub 39 GMT in black:
It ticks all the boxes, and I really dig the faux-vintage vibe, based on a Squale model from the 60's before anyone says it's a Fifty Fathoms copy.
Second option is a Lorier Hyperion GMT. Harder to find, but doing it's own thing without being too much of a Rolex rip-off. Lorier is a microbrand out of New York, though as usual the bits are sourced offshore, I'm sure. Not a huge fan of the Pepsi-esque two-tone bezel, but the colours are muted enough to be workable:
This Baltic is a contender, but I'm so in love with the blue dive version that I'd rather save room for one of those instead:
Getting away from the dive-style watches into some that are at a crossroads between sporty and dressy are the Mont Blanc Heritage:
And Frederique Constant Runabout:
All of the above, bar the Lorier seem to go for just north of $1k CAD on the used market. The Lorier is less, but much harder to find, and has a Miyota movement while the rest use entry-level Swiss mechanicals.
Also, anyone want a fair price on a Laco Aachen 42 flieger or Citizen Fugu diver with black dial and red bezel? Trying not to accumulate, so needing to move things on to make room...
Happy to say that dad really likes the watch.
Thanks all for the recommendations!
Thanks all for the recommendations!
Priller
Well-known member
Mostly agreed, but deciding to stay away from the Baltic. Have a feeling the regular diver will be on my shopping list eventually.
Right now it's between the Squale and the Montblanc (not fussed about the pen thing - 1994 is ancient history compared to a lot of resurrected brands who bought history at a trademark office), though there's another Lorier (Hydra III GMT) that I like a lot better than the one above:
It's not a patch on the Squale, really, but it's also less than half the price...
Priller
Well-known member
Not sure of the etiquette of this, so please let me know if this is bad form, but I do have a watch I want to shift to make room and would prefer to deal with slightly less rando folks here vs total randos via the usual online sales sites. I should probably post in classifieds, but I figure this thread is more appropriate.
It's a Laco Aachen 42mm, flieger Type B basically as-new with unworn strap and full set, 1 year left on 2 yr warranty. Will be posting on Chrono24 at $375, but GTAM price would be $300 as long as the plan isn't to flip it.
Was also going to sell my Citizen Fugu diver, but got cold feet, especially when I looked at used values. I need a red watch for Liverpool match days, too...
It's a Laco Aachen 42mm, flieger Type B basically as-new with unworn strap and full set, 1 year left on 2 yr warranty. Will be posting on Chrono24 at $375, but GTAM price would be $300 as long as the plan isn't to flip it.
Was also going to sell my Citizen Fugu diver, but got cold feet, especially when I looked at used values. I need a red watch for Liverpool match days, too...
Cool looking watch. I am a sucker for these older watched. I've never seen a Shriro Watch movement before.
Priller
Well-known member
The Squale Sub-39 GMT arrived while I was away.
Picked it up used on Chrono24, and the watch is mint except for one detail: the bezel is slightly wiggly, which drives me nuts. Considering I paid well below market rate, I'll live with it, and can always take it to a watchmaker for adjustment. The movement is a Sellita SW330-1, so it's a caller/office GMT rather than a traveller/pilot GMT (i.e. the 24-hr hand can be adjusted without stopping the watch while travellers can have their hour hand adjusted the same way).
I'm not a huge fan of the stock strap, so have to decide if it's worth ponying up for the factory bracelet (about $200 CAD) or looking for an alternative. I'm thinking a small-hole rally strap in black might look decent. Had looked at some more exotic materials more suitable for a dive-ish watch, but I find that sharkskin and stingray tend to look a bit too flash for my taste. Any suggestions are very welcome...
Picked it up used on Chrono24, and the watch is mint except for one detail: the bezel is slightly wiggly, which drives me nuts. Considering I paid well below market rate, I'll live with it, and can always take it to a watchmaker for adjustment. The movement is a Sellita SW330-1, so it's a caller/office GMT rather than a traveller/pilot GMT (i.e. the 24-hr hand can be adjusted without stopping the watch while travellers can have their hour hand adjusted the same way).
I'm not a huge fan of the stock strap, so have to decide if it's worth ponying up for the factory bracelet (about $200 CAD) or looking for an alternative. I'm thinking a small-hole rally strap in black might look decent. Had looked at some more exotic materials more suitable for a dive-ish watch, but I find that sharkskin and stingray tend to look a bit too flash for my taste. Any suggestions are very welcome...
Steve Irwin would approve.
Priller
Well-known member
Ha! He certainly would. I have some in the palms of my track gloves, it's weird stuff. Hard and pebbled, almost like plastic. Here's a watch example:
This is the most subtle example I could find. Many have bright dyes and stitching. The watch world isn't all classy, that's for sure...
Dirty Frank
Well-known member
My Citizen BJ7111 arrived yesterday on a bit of a titanium kick these days.
After removing 3 links it looks good on a 6.5" wrist.
After removing 3 links it looks good on a 6.5" wrist.
We need a picture
Priller
Well-known member
Here's the auction listing:
https://www.christies.com/auction/auction-23037-gnv
I expected lots of bubble '90s Tags, but there's definitely some interesting stuff there. One thing I'm always reminded of when I look at catalogs like that is that having lots of money does not guarantee taste. There's some seriously hideous horological examples in there.
Priller
Well-known member
Careful you don't get tempted by the gold skeleton hand devil horns Richard Mille!
The sweet spot for me are many of the Pateks between lot 115 and 127. 115 is actually my favourite of the bunch...
How is the 18K gold rolex so tarnished? It looks cool but it's only 70 years old. The whole point of solid gold is it doesn't normally tarnish. Is that because of the impurities that pull it down to 18K? Sadly, it is unwearable without destroying it's value. Hell, you probably can't even touch it with bare hands for fear of marking up that patina.
What's with the terrible pixelated graphics on the 1 of 1 platinum and gold fp journe? Spend so much time and money on the watch and print the dial on the office printer?
I like the pink gold patek but up to $6M for a watch that isn't a minute repeater is steep.
25% buyers premium? Ouch.
What's with the terrible pixelated graphics on the 1 of 1 platinum and gold fp journe? Spend so much time and money on the watch and print the dial on the office printer?
I like the pink gold patek but up to $6M for a watch that isn't a minute repeater is steep.
25% buyers premium? Ouch.
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It takes a lot of time and costs a lot of money to hide shill bidders effectively.
Priller
Well-known member
From the essay:
"The gold has developed the wonderful purple patina that is only seen on watches that have lain untouched in a safe for many years."
I watched an interesting episode of Baumgartner's Restoration on YT (he does quality restoration of expensive old paintings, very chill and similar to a lot of the watch repair guys) where he visited an auction house in New York. A huge amount of time and effort goes into authenticating and tracking down provenance etc. so that buyers are confident things are legit, as the auction house's reputation stands on that. Is it worth 25%? I doubt it, but it's one of the most famous auction houses in the world, they charge what they want. And shill bidders.
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